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Posts posted by Nefarious

  1. Strange new mystery. My E-brake light stays on no matter what, but when the E-brake is actually pulled, the light gets marginally brighter. Any ideas? I checked what I think were all of the connections with an ohm-meter and no issues

    almost sounds like another circuit has shorted into the e brake light circuit. When a light gets brighter it's usually because another 12v source is also powering the same device (fatter cross sectional area of conductor powering device). Like when your dome light gets brighter after a second door is opened. Worth checking for rubbed or cracked insulation along the wiring path. Otherwise I'm at a loss.

  2. Installed a headlight relay, ran and terminated all the HID conversion wiring.


    Built a wiring harness with plugs to fit the lit sun visor mirrors and map lights. Ran a new fused 12v constant source of 16 gauge wire to feed the new lights and it will also serve to power all of my memory devices later on as well (gauges, etc).


    I was thinking of tying in, but I wanted a nice heavy gauge constant 12v source for a bunch of things later on as well.


    just need to install the actual HID bulbs themselves now and the conversion is complete.

  3. Yeah sorry 194 is the type of bulb used to illuminate the dash gauges.


    So far today I fixed my drivers door switch for the dome light and installed LED corner light bulbs.


    I also started converting my 92 to run the courtesy map lights and lit up sun visor mirrors. Pulled the map lights and mounting bracket from under the headliner out of my old 93 and marked and drilled it to fit in the 92. Also made a template out of the old headliner for the hole shape and stenciled that over to the headliner in the 92 and cut it out with a razor knife. Now I just need to run a 12v power wire up to the headliner to power the map lights and sun visor lights and I am done.


    Can't wait to have proper front interior lighting again, didn't realize how much I used them until I didn't have them!

  4. The ecu will be the same if the donor has the same engine. 2wd or 4wd makes no difference for the ecu.


    if you like a project and aren't afraid of one that will consume a bunch of time then go for it! Just inspect the 2wd truck very well (especially the frame) to make sure that it's worth the swap. If you have a healthy engine and good solid frame and chassis AND it's not your current daily driver, then why not?


    I would also personally just find a donor vehicle with a wrecked engine or frame and use that for the parts. It will stop the nickel and dime effect of all the little bits and pieces u will need. Any of the parts that you will need shouldn't be too affected by the frame rust. You may need a torch to heat up the crossmember or drive shaft bolts but I've never really had too many issues getting parts off of even completely rotten framed vehicles. Mps (mapp) gas torch works wonders and is only about 15 bucks. .

  5. A lot of 4 runner guys chop the back and make a short box out of it. Look up the 4 door nissan Navara. It came as a d21 chassis with 4 doors and a short box, obviously was never sold in North America but it shows that it can fit if you get creative. I was going to do the exact same thing to my pathy, but decided to get a utility trailer instead to haul things that would need a box.


    I also didn't want to lose my converted bed inside the back of the pathy :P

  6. Does the truck surge or buck around 2200 ? The ecu had a safety feature that if the maf sensor is bad, the ecu will Rev limit at 2200-2500 rpm. It's pretty much applicable to any 90s or early 80s nissan. Worth a check? You can test it with a voltmeter per the factory service manual in the garage section.

  7. Yeah if they spin the same direction then you most likely have factory lsd. I've read that the lsd in the r50 is much weaker locking torque than the one in the wd21 so that may be why it isn't as effective. Did you try to apply the e brake at the same time as revving the engine? Applying some load to both rear wheels by the e brake will help the locker engage and get the other wheel spinning.

  8. You don't want to be spinning the cams/cam sprockets without the rest of the assembly spinning or you risk valve damage. You need to first set engine at top dead center on the compression stroke(make sure the belt is on and tensioned before you rotate anything).


    An easy way to do this is set the crank pulley marks to the timing mark on the timing cover while watching the dimple marks on the sprockets and lining them up to the protrusion marks on the inside of the timing cover. The far left notch on the crank pulley is 0 degrees if i remember correctly. Might want to double check that one.


    you should also pull the spark plug for #1 cylinder and make sure that the cylinder is at the top of the stroke (compression stroke). Use something soft like a wooden dowel to stick down the spark plug holed. It should stop just past the threads since the piston is at the top. If it sinks down into the hole, you need to continue to rotate until the #1 piston is at the top of the stroke.


    There is a chance the crank pulley is not bolted in the correct orientation, so always best to confirm that the sprocket marks are lined up and the #1 cylinder is at the top of its stroke.


    Once that is all okay, you just remove and replace the belt and tension according to FSM. I personally have always used the "twist the belt 90 degrees, no more, no less" method and it's always worked great for me.

  9. Cost me 50 bucks :). Just found a part out pathfinder and went and pulled the entire rear axle for 50 bucks. I swapped to rear disc brakes at the same time as the rear lsd. Best 50 bucks I've ever put into my truck! I drive a 92 model so I'm not sure if you can get rear disc brakes for your truck too but I know they definitely had a locking clutch type lsd diff as an option on the r50 as well. On the wd21 rigs there's usually an orange sticker on the pumpkin that says lsd. Or you could jack up the rear wheels and spin one side by hand and watch the other side. If the wheels spin in opposite directions, it's open diff, if they spin the same direction, it's lsd.

  10. quote name="CDN_S4" post="744044" timestamp="1420312177"]

    Got it stuck. Am stuck as I'm writing this lol.


    This guy needs a locker!!






    No factory rear lsd? I only ever got stuck when I had the open rear diff. Now that I swapped in the factory rear locker I haven't been stuck even once!

  11. I notice a big difference with or without the rear sway bar on my lifted 92. I personally prefer to run it when driving on streets or towing. You could just sort of copy what 4x4parts.com offers for their sway bar disconnects? I was thinking of making some as well but I'll probably come up with my own version when I do it since I have a welder. Probably use some small heim joints and some threaded rod and tubing to make my own.

  12. Got my new headlight housings in the mail today and I just had to install them! They take the same H3 9004 bulb but are the more modern style of housing with clear lens and reflector caps inside to control the cut off line properly. Now I can finally install this HID kit that I've been holding on to for ages and feel good that I will have converted to hid the proper way!

  13. Yeah sure I'll take a couple tomorrow. Right now I have the 4 " trailmaster suspension lift front and back, as well as about 2 inches of torsion bar crank. Still have to get my jgc springs in the back to level it out, but at least now I don't rub. So far it's about 6" front suspension lift, I'll probably crank it another half inch or so and call it a day since my jgc springs lift the rear that much.

  14. Installed ultra low profile bump stops up front, cranked up the torsion bars about 2 inches. Truck rides way better now and doesn't rub the 33s anymore. Still going to clearance a bit more though so I don't mess anything wheeling.


    Also re tapped my o2 sensor bung since it was trying to eat the threads of my new o2 sensor. No more running rich!

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