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Nefarious

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Posts posted by Nefarious

  1. Jacked up the rear and took the wheels off. Drooped the rear axle down and detached the shocks, panhard bar and sway bar in preparation for lift springs 7 inches of pure suspension lift is almost complete.

     

    I'm starting to think about trying coilovers in the front with a set of superlift upper control arms :) would love to ditch the torsion bars.

    • Like 2
  2. Got my frame repaired this weekend. Was really hoping I wouldn't have to go through this whole ordeal again, but the passengers side spring perch started to tear off of the frame rail. We pulled the gas tank and plated the whole frame. It'll last forever now.

    every time you think you have found a clean one, that damn rust rears it's ugly head again eh? You gotta come grab west cost truck man, there are quite a few nice frames left over here.

  3. Those definitely look to be external accessory bolts. Those definitely have nothing to do with the head gasket job, I wouldn't worry. They will find a home when u put it back together and a certain bracket or accessory still has an open threaded hole in it :)

  4. Cost for a used engine hoist (75$ on Craigslist)

    Cost for new oem rear main seal (20$ from nissan)

     

    A weekend of blood sweat and TEARS to pull the engine and replace the seal, while having the truck back together for Monday. (Priceless)

     

    This will be my life the next time I have a long weekend, haha.

     

    Lol

    • Like 1
  5. Just stick the crank bolt back in the crank. The force it takes to spin the engine doesn't torque down the bolt very tight and it will be easy to take out again, once the marks are lined up.

     

    Well, considering it's a 4 stroke engine; the crank spins twice for every rotation of the cams. So you should have it lined up in under two full revolutions of the crank. It won't take long, very easy to do. I've found that there often isn't a mark on the oil pump for the lower timing mark that's supposed to be located parallel to the mark on the crank sprocket, so I will use an automatic center punch to make my own mark (once the cam sprockets are both lined up). This is just for another reference point.

  6. I would put the belt back on and count the teeth to any arbitrary points and then rotate the engine until it's at top dead center on the compression stroke and then pull the belt and put it back on with the marks aligned properly so you can be sure you aren't off anywhere.

     

    As long as you haven't rotated the crank or the cams individually with the belt of, you shouldn't have any issues doing this.

  7. Thanks, Nefarious. :blush02:

     

    In my (lame) defense, I had tested continuity on the switch (confirmed that "off" meant open) and also whether it showed voltage. Since it didn't register any voltage, I just assumed it was switching ground.

     

    My mistake was that I didn't check if there was actually continuity to ground until after I smelled burnt electronic components.

    Don't feel bad, I fried a thing or two when electricity was still a hobby; before I went to school for electrical and automation and took it up for a living. It really helps to sink in those lessons you learn and also keeps you diligent in making all of your checks in the future.

     

    Hopefully it didn't become an expensive lesson. The less costly lessons are generally preferred in this instance, haha.

  8. Installed an alarm system, so I finally have keyless entry! :)

     

    Also installed an automatic headlight system, which worked great until I fried the control unit trying to install a lighted rocker switch instead of the ugly little toggle switch that it came with. :doh: (Not to self: don't assume that a switch is either (+) or (-) - sometimes it just interrupts a signal from a photocell...) :headwall:

     

    At least it was only a $30 mistake and all I have to do is swap out the brains when the replacement shows up. :aok:

    that my friend, is what we call a 'dry contact' in the electrical world. :)

  9. I'm running obx headers with a full custom exhaust. 2" off the headers into a 2.5 " y pipe and 2.5" from there on back. MagnaFlow hi flow cat and a Flowmaster 40 series muffler, which I will be changing soon for a magnaflow 18" muffler.

  10. You may just have seized shocks? When I first picked up my old 93 it rode very very stiff. Turned out the shocks were so shot that they were actually seized . No bouncing, but VERY rough and stiff ride. When I pulled them they were so stiff I couldn't even compress them at all with all of my 250 lbs of body weight. Put in some cheap Monroe shocks and it rode beautiful after. Worth checking? Pathfinders ride quite nice with a good set of shocks so I would guess that may be your problem?

  11. I run 4300k hid colour, which is the only factory and legal colour and has the best visibility of any of the headlight options per lumen. I personally love them and I can see FAR better than I could before with the combination of new housings and the conversion.

     

    Even in the dense fog in the coastal town I live in, I can see better. There are a LOT of wild animals around here including elk and deer, which frequent the highways, which are 120 kmh. Trust me, you need to see as clearly as possible out here. No street lamps on most roads just reflectors. I live in the boonies haha

    • Like 1
  12. It's the large torque increase that you really notice. Vg33 swap really transforms how the truck drives in my opinion, but I did headers and exhaust at the same time as the swap so I had a very pronounced change I suppose. With a supercharger it would be a massive jump in torque. I would personally swap in the supercharged motor if i had the opportunity. I would personally just run the factory vg30 ecu and just get a tune for a supercharger on it. That would be the easiest way. Your call, but I would definitely do it!

  13. Just finished installing my HID conversion on the WD21. Low and high beam are working and now I just need to aim them properly :) So much better ! Now the headlights are powered through a relay and converted to HID with proper conversion housings. Never will I complain about my trucks lighting again. :)

  14. I believe the supercharged just had the HD version of the 3.3 transmission. I cannot say for sure about the torque converter being the same though.

     

    Technically you could run the supercharged engine on a vg30 ecu and as long as you have a wideband o2 gauge to monitor the air to fuel ratio, then you would most likely be fine running the supercharged engine with a stock tune. The factory tune is very rich... you would definitely want some monitoring going on though.

     

    ideally you would install the ecu from the supercharged 3.3 but you could also tune a vg30e ecu to run the supercharged engine as well.

     

    I suspect the biggest difficulty would be re plumbing the coolant and vacuum lines to fit your engine bay but shouldn't be too bad. I'm sure you could adapt the iacv and emission controls from the old engine but you may have to get creative.

     

    Basically, you can definitely do it if you swap ecu and harness as well, you most likely can do it if you are good with electrical and can get creative with some custom work.

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