Jump to content

UPDATE - Unfortunately, the data that was lost is unrecoverable by the host.  If you joined between May 26th and Jan 13th please feel free to sign up again.  In addition, all posts and messages during that time have also been lost.  At this point there is nothing that can be done, other than to move forward from here.

 

Thank you for your patience and understanding.

-NPORA Mod Team

*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST

Nefarious

Members
  • Posts

    1,743
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    19

Posts posted by Nefarious

  1. Technically December 21st is the first day of winter. :P

     

    Still haven't had any snow where I'm at, although it has been getting down to -13 or so some nights.

     

    As long as I get it finished before the snow hits, I'll be laughing... my lowered 240sx is not ideal in snowy conditions haha.

  2. You cannot access the plug that attaches to the knock sensor itself, and the other end of that harness is located in the bank of plugs where your injector harness plugs in. If you check the fsm there is a pin out of each plug. That will be your best bet for a clean look is to re route from there. Either repin the harness and swap in your own wire or cut and splice.

     

    In my honest opinion though, pulling the plenum isn't that bad...and once you factor in wiring time for the relocation, you might as well just pull the plenum and do it right. Either way will work, but it's only going to take an extra hour or 2 (depending on your skill) to do the job right. Might as well?

  3. We like to see pics too and I want to know if it is more colorful than mine... :tongue:

     

    haha well I just repainted all the parts black again and stripped the parts that were steel and used to be coated (and we're just rusty) with black as well (coolant pipes etc). I also polished and shined up some of the aluminum parts as well. I figure I'll start a build thread for my new truck in the members rides section. I'll get some pics tomorrow and post up a new thread!

  4. Very cool. I've done the removable seat hinge thing for my rig for years now and it works great and only takes 1 minute to convert but you have to sleep between the wheel well humps. I like how your design moves the sleeping position above the wheel well humps to get maximum width. I was thinking of building some shelving like thst in the new truck to accommodate the full width of the rear while adding storage underneath. Like it man!

  5. That's the nice thing about nissans. The 5 speed manual for the vg30 is essentially the same from 1986 to 2004 (vg30/vg33 equipped models). There were changes made alone the way but any of them will fit and function.

     

    Sorry I don't have any ideas as to why your trans won't go into reverse though.

  6. Most arduino boards will run on 12v and if it wants 5v you could just rig up a simple switching voltage regulator. I believe input voltage on my atmega 2560 board is 9-14v. Definitely double check on the spec sheet though!

     

    The sensors to do what you want are very cheap on ebay. I bought a 9 axis accellerometer, tiltometer, gyrometer etc for like 5$. For the board itself I would suggest an atmega 2560 if you want to be able to expand on it later (as long as the 2560 will fit where you want it as its a little bigger than the other boards). I believe it has 52 points of i/o and can do analog, digital, as well as PWM depending on the points used.

     

    The hardest part of the whole thing will be coding as the physical wiring and sensors are actually quite simple. Generally, power, signal and ground. The hard part will be to integrate a display to the arduino and to code the sensors in. Im not the greatest at programming C++ (basically what arduino uses) but im sure you could find some sample code bits online and work with those to get going.

     

    I got my atmega 2560 board for 17 dollars on ebay listed as "Funduino" fyi.

  7. Have you ever tried electrolitic rust removale.?

    no I have not! Never even heard of it.. is it some kind of spray or solvent, or is it an actual machine/process?

     

    I like to restore pretty much any piece that I pull for repairs so maybe I'll look into that. If it's easier than a nylon flapper wheel then I will be a happy man! Lol

     

    edit: oh man... just googled it... i am definitely going to try that next time! Looks very easy to setup your own rig at home for said electrolytic rust removal. Looks almost too easy! Thanks for the tip !

    • Like 1
  8. Pathys are pretty good at major damage aversion due to the thicker sheet metal panels (the reason they called the pickup the hardbody was because of the thicker gauge sheet metal they used vs. The 720 pickup) but the problem is that there's so many flat spots on our trucks! If you walk anywhere near a corner joint of sheet metal, it's unlikely it will bend. I weigh 260 lbs and have walked all over my truck, but in strategic areas (along the sides where the sheet metal has shape) and never dented anything. I would never walk through the middle though !

  9. Maybe the maf? Have you cleaned it? Check the connectors for loose pins ? Or possibly o2 sensor? Unplug it and see of the issue gets better or run the o2 sensor ecu diagnostic. (You have run the ecu codes, correct?)

  10. You can trim the fender flares to fit 33x12.5s. I run 33x12.5 on a 15 x 10 wheel and even with the short steering stops for max steering angle I do not rub at all. The main place for pathfinders to rub big tires is the front pinch seam of the chassis inside the rear of the front wheel wells. I sliced out the pinch seam and shaped it back a bit and then welded the seam shut and coated it with rust protect and then under coat. On top of that I trimmed the edges of my fender flares on the lower sections closer to the bottom of the truck. I think I may have had to trim a tiny bit in the rear too but that was very minimal. I can completely stuff my tires on my rig and have the wheel turned fully and no rubbing at all. 3+3 lift.

  11. Pulled the camshaft and crankshaft seals... 350k km on engine and I think they were original, rubber had turned into hard plastic consistency and it took me 2 hours and much cursing with all the right tools to get the 3 seals out. I've done this job a few times before on my other rigs and never had any issues, but this one I will remember. Good thing this new trucks body and frame are so mint cause that engine was seriously neglected! I am bringing it back up to snuff though... the leaks in the brake system and the front of the engine are just about fixed.

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...