Nefarious
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Posts posted by Nefarious
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Not on the pathy directly, but for the pathy. I re arranged my mess of a shop and built a bunch of shelving and benches out of reclaimed lumber. Got most of my stuff organized now and unburied from the piles it was all in.
Now I have a nice place to weld up a new idler arm bracket (gave the other one I made to my girl for her rig) and build my rear crossmember offset to clear my rear driveshaft. Will post some pics on the progress as I build these next mods..
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I am most definitely looking into adjustable arms as well as shifting my spring perches so that i run a proper pinion angle. I have finally found a perfect wd21 with no rust that I can build my dream path out of! Actually stopped in at a frame coat shop today to see what it would take to preserve my frame indefinitely and I might have found what I need, lol. Want this to be one of those rigs I can pass down to the next generation!
Also looking into converting the front end to coilovers and removing the torsion bars, then I can do a medium travel setup since my diff can be moved pretty easilly by modifying the lift brackets. Have a buddy that is a red seal welder so if I can come up with it, he can do it for me (I don't trust my welds yet for suspension work)
and I agree about the speed limits in quiet rural/town areas. We have an incredibly low accident rate and the insurance rate is very inexpensive to suit. It's a very large area with a small population per capita, hens much room to move around.
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Ah that's understandable. Keep in mind I live on an island with quite a low population. The stretch of highway I commute on is 120 kmh limit because it's a long stretch and very little traffic. In my 40 minute commute to work, sometime I will not see another car from either direction for 5-10 minutes at a time. Depending on the time of day, you could commute from one town to the next without ever seeing another vehicle. It is quite barren and empty! I would not be testing my brakes if there was other traffic around, and I most definitely was not speeding.
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As in a normal accelerated stop on the highway at a stop light. The speed limits here are 120 kmh lol.
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Okay. So i replaced the rear calipers and pads, truck brakes great now. No pulling, no hot rotors.
So I've ruled out warped rotors, there is no vibration at all under normal braking and even a quick stop from 120 kmh down the highway proved perfect, there is also no vibration in the steering wheel. When I can get it to clunk I only feel it under my butt and feet. Steering wheel feels fine. Everything feels normal, no vibrations at all.
The only time I can get the noise/clunk clunk clunk to happen is if I brake hard at SLOW speeds. Like 20-50 kmh is the only time it will happen at all. Drove 45 km each way to work today and it drove beautifully. I torqued all the bolts under the truck including control arms and all the trailmaster lift bits.
Today after work I crawled under and noticed something though. My rear drive shaft has wear rings around it where it's rubbing my crossmember. I think when I slam on my brakes at low speed, it's enough to shift the vehicles weight enough that it lifts the rear end up and rubs the drive shaft. The only part I don't understand is why I hear a loud repetitive clunk sound and not a continuous scraping noise, maybe it's sort of skipping, rather than continuously rubbing? This weekend I am going to notch my crossmember and patch in some new steel to make a U shaped center section which will allow the drive shaft room to flex. HOPEFULLY this fixes it. I am running out of ideas of where to look lol. 7" of suspension lift is definitely pushing it without some reworking of the frame I suppose, lol.
I have some ball joints and wheel bearings in the mail as well, so I'll have the entire front end rebuilt once these last parts show up and that will eliminate that bit.
one other thing I notice a slight ticking sound that I'd also repetitive in my front left wheel area when applying brakes very lightly. It almost sounds hub related as its like an actual tick tick tick sound like the hub is trying to catch and then failing or something. So a front hub/joint rebuild is in the works next...
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That's the thing. It doesn't matter if it's high or low speed. I can be doing 20 kmh or 120 kmh and it's the same. It actually happens a bit less at higher speeds. It's based only on brake pedal pressure. I'll get my rotors surfaced and put some new pads on along with the new rear calipers, hopefully that does it ! I did find that my tension rod bracket extension had a few bolts that worked loose a bit on the trailmaster lift so I re torqued it all. Haven't had a chance to test it yet. I'll get new pads and resurface the rotors as well as replace the rear calipers. That better do it ! Lol
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Holy crap that must have been some trail! I have been wheeling on my 2wd setup for years with no issues; although it's typically more logging roads and washout around here, not so much hard core rough terrain. Have you tried the moog problem solver inner tie rods? They are quite a bit thicker than stock, I doubt you could bend one of those. The shaft is around 19 - 20 mm diameter!
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I'm having a strange brake issue on my 92 pathy. The brakes feel fine under normal light use, no noise or vibrations, but as soon as I need to brake moderately to heavily, the vehicle shakes quite violently. It feels like the noise and vibration is coming from under where my feet are under the floor.
It's not a typical ball joint clunk, it's a repetitive ratcheting noise and vibration that does not feel too good. It's kind of like abs is triggering but I feel it in the front, not the back, and it's happening far too soon. I am by no means emergency braking when this happens, but I do notice that one of the tires seems to screech lightly on the left side when I brake with any force(happens a bit before the noise/banging in relation to brake pedal force). The brakes smell hot on the rear of the vehicle after a drive so I'm guessing my rear calipers are fairly seized. I ordered new rear calipers that will be here tomorrow.
basically, my question is; would a seized rear caliper(s) cause abs to engage far too easily than it should, and also, is it normal to feel the vibration from abs under the front/middle of the truck when it engages, or should I be looking somewhere else for the issue?
The truck has a trailmaster 4" suspension lift so it has some extra bits underneath if that makes any difference.
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Worst case scenario (if the sensor snaps or falls apart inside the hole) you can drill it out and re tap the threads or have a new bung welded on at a muffler shop for very little money if the hole is totally pooched. They won't have to pull the exhaust just to weld in a bung
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They are 35-50 each out here at lordco, although I will admit I've never checked canadian tire. can get rotors turned for 20 cash though at a local tire and mechanic shop.
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You can have lines made. Any hydraulic shop should be able to do what you need. Some auto part stores even make lines, or try a heavy duty mechanic shop, they also work with a lot of hydraulic lines.
I know duncan auto or chemainus auto both make any custom lines you want, but that's in my home town. Know nothing about shipping, etc. Where abouts in canada are you?
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Yeah i usually have mine turned, but the ones on my parts truck were just turned about 5k ago and are in perfect shape. They are not so cheap in my neck of the woods. The joys of living on an island!
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Started to tackle the horrible rear brakes on the new path. One rotor was rusted right out so badly that the pad had no clean surface to bind to and the other side had grooves on both sides of the rotor and very little pad left. Both rotors were very ugly in two distinct ways so I swapped the rear rotors from my parts truck over and got some new brake pads. Realized the slide pins are seized on the right rear caliper so I can't fit the new pads over the rotor even with the piston compressed all the way.
That's where I got to so far, next step tomorrow morning is to swap the right rear caliper over from my parts truck and bleed the system all around. Hopefully my braking woes will be over after all of this!
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Ordered parts for the old girl. All new ball joints, all new wheel bearings and seals, as well as moog problem solver inner tie rods and new 2wd center link and 4wd inner tie rods. Just need to source some diff drop bushings and superlift/rough country control arms and the front end of this truck is 100% complete.
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And your brake fluid is topped up, yes?
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Nice! Can't wait to see this thing finished!
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Im considereing these....
http://www.anzousa.com/nissan-hardbody-88-89-pathfinder-87-95-crystal-h-l-chrome.html
along with the harnss upgrade.
those are the exact headlights that I just put on my rig. They are actually quite nice quality and have much better light pattern / cut off line than stock housings as long as you use halogen bulbs. They are what I will be using for my hid retrofit with projectors as well.
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Replaced the front brake calipers and pads with the ones from my parts truck. Man I love speed bleeders, literally makes caliper changes a 20 minute, one man job.
Also had some looseness in the front end and some clunking so I inspected it and found that my trailmaster lift radius arm brackets were loose. (The 3/4" bolt that replaces the stock radius arm was loose). So i got a 1 1/8th inch wrench and tightened them up. Torque spec is 270 lb ft of torque so I got them as tight as I possibly could with my 1 foot crescent wrench. Probably more like 200 lb ft, but I'll lock tite them if they come loose again.
truck is starting to ride real nice now!
just need to replace my ball joints and swap in the 2wd swap/idler arm brace from my old truck and get some superlift ucas and the front end lifted IFS setup is 100% complete with 7" of lift and a proper alignment
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Oh man. My bad. I've never worked on a diesel and I didn't see it mentioned in the post. Sorry I have no idea what to tell ya now!
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Ford f250/f350 1995 rear shocks here. Just used cheap Monroe brand and they ride awesome years and years later. 3" longer than stock
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On the 4x4 , as far as i know, you have to remove the torsion bars. This let's you drop the torsion bar crossmember and gives you room to slide the transmission and transfer case backwards. The manual is a lot lighter than the auto, but you have to pull it back a lot further to get the input shaft clear of the clutch assembly. And yes. Either trans is bloody heavy. Be careful.
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I picked up some 'eagle eye' headlights on ebay for my wd21. They are clear lenses so they are perfect for an hid projector retrofit. That will be my plan of attack anyway
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Pretty sure u need the grille, headlights, and headlight brackets from the hardbody..
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did a graceful 360 on the way home from work last night. Hit a patch of black ice but nailed the landing. Then followed it by a look around to see if anyone was watching so I knew whether to put on my "I meant to do that" face or not.
glad all is well. That is an unwritten rule on a construction site. You do something embarrassing, first thing is to look around and make sure no one saw, then proceed to fix your mess up. Lol.
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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
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Ripped out the entire exhaust system from Kats pathy and installed a new set of obx headers. It is being taken in to the exhaust shop as we speak for a full 2.5 inch exhaust system to be installed including hi flow magnaflow cat and 18 inch oval magnaflow muffler. Should sound pretty awesome when it's all done!
P.s. for anyone wondering. The obx headers DO fit in a truck with no body lift. The front drive shaft has to be Un bolted on the forward end where it joins the front diff. Once the front end is detached it just angles out of the way and there is lots of room to get the drivers side header in. The passenger side just slipped right in. Both headers were put in from the bottom.