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*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST

Nefarious

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Posts posted by Nefarious

  1. I hear ya. Mine drives alright. With 33s it's sluggish on the highway though with a stock vg30e. My old vg33e swapped truck definitely handled it better. Highway speeds are 120 kmh here and to reach that speed with 33s and vg30e/auto the engine is running well over 3k rpm. Usually closer to 4k since I live in a mountainous area with lots of long hill climbs.

     

    The girls mt truck handles it flawlessly at 120/130 kmh and gets WAY better mileage than me at those speeds. She also never has to downshift and even though hers is manual, it revs lower in 5th gear than my truck runs with the auto trying to maintain 120 up long hills.

     

    When I swap the vg33e over from my old truck to my new one, I am also swapping to MT. Have the whole swap sitting in my shed but this trucks still my DD right now so it will have to wait until the car is back on the road

    • Like 1
  2. I agree, the auto does drive better once you have some more torque pushing it (vg33e swap, bolt on mods, etc), but it's still far from perfect. If you do a lot of stop and go city driving, the auto is nice. In basically all other situations, the manual is better. Although if you do extreme offroad stuff, the auto is easier, but not necessarily better.

     

    I like the ability to push start in case of battery or starter failure and the fact that even if you lose a clutch or a gear, there are still ways to get back off the trail.

    • Like 1
  3. Started to come up with a design for my rear shelving/sub box/water tap/storage setup for the back of my path.

     

    Going to try and integrate it all together to make functional storage setup in the rear while still leaving the center of the truck open for sleeping. Even going to mount a 12v coffee maker and use a sure Flo pump setup to a tap at the back with on board water storage. :) big plans... but first I must build the structure

    • Like 1
  4. Great!!!! More problems!!!! Now the transmission sounds like its got marbles in it when I'm driving down the road -.- I pulled out in traffic and gave it a little more gas to go and then it made a god awful screeching and crunching noise but everything still works ok :/ just the noise. And yes it was just rebuilt and has a shift kit in it and and auxiliary fluid cooler.I completely bypassed the stock one even though its a new radiator. The fluids not burnt and its only been a few thousand miles if that since the rebuild.

    take it back to the shop that rebuilt it. Should still have warranty if it was only a few thousand ago. I would take it in asap before any major damage happens

  5. FYI. I ran 15 x 10 for years and while they ride nice down the highway, they make the pathy ride like a tank. Depends on your preference, but I really started to miss the nimble handling it had stock, so I went to light weight and moderate width alloy rims to fit my 33x12.5x15 tires and I have not regretted it! My fuel mileage and hill climbing power also has let me know that it appreciates the change as well!

    • Like 1
  6. Drained front diff fluid. Was black sludge. Nice fresh slime green fluid went back in.

     

    Rear was not quite as easy. In fact, rear was a no go. Both drain / fill plugs were so softened up by rust that they both stripped completely. No dice. This tells me they have probably not been undone in 15 years. And neither has the fluid been changed.

     

    Any ideas how I might get them out??!

    if it's totally stripped out, I would weld a short bolt to the drain plug with a couple of spot welds. The heat will break the seal and the bolt will allow you to turn it out with a breaker bar. The drain plugs are usually protruding from the housing by 1/8 to 1/4 inch, so it's easy to avoid getting any weld bead on the housing. It's a last resort, but if you totally stripped out the drain plug then it's a surefire way to do it.

  7. Well now I'm at a loss... just checked compression on her vg33. 178-188 psi across all cylinders with a dry test. Didn't even bother with wet since all cylinders are within spec as is it. Full tune up is done, new oem hoses (oil / coolant / vacuum), Pcv brand new. All cylinders check out near perfect. Thing runs like a dream and has tons of power.

     

    I think it's time to take this thing into nissan and get a diagnosis. First time I've ever had to bring a vehicle in to the mechanic, but I'm totally stumped. ..

  8. Got my lego wheel mounted up on my spare 33 today. Had to space it out with a couple washers and grind down a bit of my tire carrier release mechanism bracket but she fits! Looks so much better with the tire tucked right up against the truck and not sticking out like 4 inches away from it. Might even help my highway mileage a bit too!

     

    Also got my slow leak in my tire patched. Pin hole leak at the corner of the tire.

     

    Tightened up a brake line that I noticed was leaking a bit from where I swapped my calipers a while back.

     

    On another note... Kats truck just started puffing blue smoke! Went from consuming no oil to consuming a quart over 50 km highway trip! Her beautiful vg33 swap is sure not feeling too good right now. I have no idea what could have caused such a sudden consumption of oil but we are going out to do a wet and dry compression test to see if it's the valves or the rings.... please please please be the valves.... we did the swap about 50 K ago so I find it strange that all of the sudden it pushes blue

  9. Finally found a lego wheel at the junk yard to mount my spare tire on the back with. 40$

     

    Even got the center cap so that i can rep the nissan logo on the back haha.

     

    Also got a 30 inch piece of 2" x 3" - 3/16" wall square tube to build my mid crossmember modification to clear my driveshaft properly with 7 inches of rear lift. Well post pics of what I come up with!

    • Like 1
  10. I parked it in the back and converted it to my portable stereo (all doors and hatch open with music blasting), so i could start stripping my 240sx down to the chassis. Gotta love deep cycle batteries!

     

    In other news, I managed to get the fenders and bumper and all the front components out of my 240 in one day. Now I'm ready to begin the rust repair as well as fit the front mount intercooler and then fit the front lip to the bumper and trim the bumper to fit the intercooler. Also have to pull the oil pan to fit the turbo oil return drain, that will be fun (sigh). Lol

  11. ITS GONE. THE BRAKE LIGHT IS GONE. To those who said to add brake fluid, you were right. There is a small sensor at the bottom of the brake fluid resevoir that senses when your brake fluid is below the "Min" line.

    well I didn't say it for no reason! Lol. Yeah that brake Mc switch is called a 'limit switch'. It's just a safety to let you know when you are getting low. :)

  12. You can relocate the knock sensor but you are slightly compromising it's effectiveness. On a daily driven naturally aspirated motor though, it's not a big deal. Just mount it central to the cylinder banks, just slightly off center biased towards the rear a bit. That pretty much where the stock one is, albeit a little lower from the factory. And you are correct. The Knock sensor is just a microphone. It transmits the noise of the engine running to the ecu, and built into the ecu is a specific filter that is looking for the frequency of 'pinging' that happens typically alongside detonation.

  13. Took Kats truck up to gosling lake after it came out of the exhaust shop. The truck sounds superb. The vg33e is running like a top and the obx headers / magnaflow cat / magnaflow muffler / 2.25" exhaust had such a nice rumble but no drone whatsoever. Sounds perfect. I'm most definitely getting rid of my Flowmaster for a magnaflow. The set up in her truck sounds perfect!

    • Like 1

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