Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by Nefarious

  1. Been away for a wee while on vacation so left the truck in the hands of my father to borrow. Left my Moog "problem solvers" in the back and he gave the truck back to me with them installed, That's a win! :happy:

    moog problem solver inner tie rods for 2wd swap? If so, those things are beast! We installed them on my wife's rig and they are still solid as the day we put them in 20 000 km later and many offroad adventures

  2. A ka24e wouldn't be the choice I would make. I would much rather swap in a ka24de and add a t3 sized turbo to the deal. Then you have the superior fuel economy and torque of the double overhead cam engine and intake manifold butterflies. A ka24det with around 8-10 psi of boost pressure will yield around 250 hp to the wheels of a rwd car. So maybe 240 to the wheels on a truck and will most likely get a few mpg better than the vg30e. Then again you would be downgrading your transmission to make the swap happen and your peak torque would be at 4400 rpm instead of 3800 rpm but that could be adjusted with driving style. In my personal opinion the ka24de is the most reliable engine that I've ever owned and that alone would make me consider the swap if I didn't already have a vg33e in place!

  3. I would personally look into either swapping to a vq35de using a VQ to VG bellhousing adapter; or, build a vg34e with higher compression. You can get over 220 hp and a lot more torque out of a vg33e bored over to 3.4 using used vh45de pistons. It also bumps the compression up from 9:1 to closer to 10:1 (I think it ends up around 9.8 or 9.9), yet will still run on 87 octane fuel. It gets significantly better fuel economy than a factory VG as well due to the bump in compression (and the engine really not needing to work very hard to push the pathy).


    I currently run a vg33e in my 92 pathy, but I'm most likely going the vg34e route myself once I get the parts together and then likely adding a small mid mounted turbo setup to sweeten the deal. Low boost 6-7 psi setup on a 9.8:1 vg34e would easilly break the 300 whp mark and be just a blast to drive with instant turbo response and would still be incredibly reliable. Factory ecu and wiring can be used with this setup as well with no issues as the stock ecu can be tuned to support the changes.


    my vg33e donor cost me 200$ and I would expect to pay around 800-1000$ for the used parts and machine work to put the vg34e together properly with a full rebuild.


    1000-1200$ is not a high price to pay for a basically brand new over bored high compression engine that will literally drop right in with very few modifications.

    • Like 3
  4. If you are going vq then I would suggest dropping in the 3.5 from a 350z or pathfinder. It has a lot more use able low end torque which would be more beneficial for a truck and the same amount of work and likely price. They are great engines although maybe just slightly less reliable than the vg. Great power though and light as they are all aluminum.


    I'm pretty sure there are vq - vg bellhousing adapters available.

  5. I have the A/C control arms (I have 2 sets actually, one I bought from a member here, another I was given) but one got bent in a collision so it is useless unless fixed. But I think I am running too much lift now as the ball joint angle is excessive and is probably why the truck is destroying upper ball joints. Although it's only the passenger side which is odd.


    The correct bushing fitment is probably worth it the most. fskc trimming @!*%. If I'm spending that much on parts, they better farking fit!


    Do I actually need a press or can I use a vice or something?

    The bushings just press in by hand once lubricated but I had to press the sleeves on. I just used the big fat bushing washer that holds the bushing in place and the end of the spindle nut and an electric impact to drive the sleeve on. Then once the sleeve bites into the inner spindle washer (it's serrated on the ends) u can remove the bushing washer and spindle nut and assemble it all by hand from there. No extra tools needed I just used the hardware that was on the spindle already to press the sleeves on.


    to remove the factory bushing sleeves I used a razor knife to cut away a section of rubber from the sleeve and the used an angle grinder and a cut off disc to CAREFULLY slice the sleeve from end to end (being careful not to cut into the actual spindle material). I had to grind away the inner corner were it meets up against the fatter part of the spindle to get it all the way through. Once it's sliced down the length of the sleeve, it should slide off pretty easy with a pair of channel locks twisting and pulling at the same time.

  6. It's okay I got a 20$ gift certificate for my next summit purchase so I consider that close enough to 180! Lol you will really enjoy them though!


    The bushing fitment is WAY better than the energy suspension or prothane equivalents too. The sleeves actually press onto the spindles, they don't just slip on. The bushings are the correct length and require np trimming, plus the bushings have molded in grease channels to actually maintain lubrication using the zerk fittings. So glad I went with them

  7. Ordered new superlift UCA's yesterday. Got a great price from rugged rocks. Hopefully this will be the end of my front end woes after the grassroots CL and new control arms.

    I just installed a set of them. They literally made my truck ride better than I thought a pathfinder could ride! So smooth up front now I don't even feel minor road imperfections anymore. Feels a lot more like a full size truck the way it rides now. Very stable and very little disruption of the front end on the broken down roads where I live. You will like them I think! I got mine for 200$ on summit

  8. Phew got the superlift ucas in. Such a pain getting the old spindles out and the old bushings and sleeves off but got it all done and wow does it drive nice now. I hardly even feel bumps or potholes on the road now. Feels like a full size truck with how stable it is. I am surprised how much more shock absorption the truck has from just the ucas and new bushings. Very happy with the investment.

  9. Got my npora stickers from fleurys and also received my superlift ucas from summit. They shipped me the black powder coated ones (they look to be just rough country version which I was very happy to see, I love powder coat! )


    Will be a fun weekend. Can't wait to get them in. My front ifs will be fully upgraded after this. :) superlift ucas, trailmaster 4" lift, full poly bushes all around!

    • Like 1
  10. No offense but you are crazy! 5 speed all the way; plus you literally just spewed a list of all the reasons why the 5 speed is better....easy choice in my honest opinion. The auto will only last so much longer...keep the one that will keep on keeping on!

  11. Wd21 chassis with an r50 power plant, then you have the best of both worlds. :)


    My 93 is converted to a full r50 engine / accessories setup. Soon I'll be installing an r50 manual transmission to replace my tired old auto as well.


    The obx headers fit great. I've installed them in both a body lifted and non body lifted truck and the only difference was that the non body lifted truck needs the front driveshaft disconnected from the front diff and dropped down a bit. Literally took an extra 5 mins.


    There's also a little tab of metal that hangs off the frame on the passenger side that has to be cut off. I have no idea what it's for as both my 93 xe auto and my girlfriends 93 se manual had nothing attached to it. It just kind of sticks out there for no reason so we cut them off and that was the only mod needed. Very simple as it's a tiny bracket.


    the header fitment is great BUT it does require a custom y pipe to be made since they are long collectors and pass much further down the truck. The crossover pipe sits right near the transmission crossmember after the install. Sound and performance are great and we have had no quality issues. Mine are about 5 or 6 years old now and are still great

    • Like 1
  12. The auto transmission started making a much more pronounced sound. Still drives fine, but makes quite a whining/whirring noise now in direct relation to the rpm / shifts. I'll add some Lucas trans fix for now, but I think the time has finally come to pull it off the road and convert to manual transmission.


    Have the trans and all associated parts sitting in the back but have really been lacking the motivation to get started. Especially since it's been winter.


    Pics to follow....

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...