Nefarious
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Posts posted by Nefarious
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It just requires a Socketted and chipped stock ecu to change the tune to support the maf
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95 ecu has more refined fuel and timing maps, so you may get a little better efficiency (slight). Other than that if it works it's fine
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I agree about the eBay parts. Make sure you buy from the seller 'cnsautoparts'. They consistently have high quality parts for pennies on the dollar compared to local parts store. Ive used their timing kit on 2 vg33s and a vg30de in my 300zx and all of them have held up great.
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Duuuude! That thing is so sick!!
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There's a park switch in the auto shifter console that may be sticking, that switch drives the inhibitor relay which only let's the vehicle start in park. Then you also have the starter relay that allows current to the starter solenoid. You can try banging on the starter if it's not working . That indicates it's probably full of crud and needs cleaning or replacement
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It's most likely your clutch interlock (or inhibitor switch if you have an auto) relay or starter relay. I would check those first
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Pulled a bunch of parts from my old 93 to put on my new 92 pathy. Heated side mirrors (which I'll have to wire in), antenna, some door linkage parts, as well as my custom powder coated front and rear wiper arms.
Also picked up some clear plastidip to coat an old set of alloy rims that I've been slowly restoring from their previously corroded state. Lol
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I could use the trim around the center vents up front.
Also; is it the kind of brownish gray coloured interior? If so I'll take the drivers arm rest as well if it's not yet claimed. PM me and we can work something out!
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oh man that's exactly what I was working with today. Except I needed the little yellow pivot clip that slides on to the shaft that fits on that plastic piece. Yeah i could send that to you no problem just cover the shipping and it's yours man.Want to mail me a piece for the drivers door lock mechanism? Can't find any in the yards here and don't feel like paying Nissan 15 bucks (locally) for it.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/80527n-lever-pathfinder-wd21-1987-1995-p-542760.html
Kind of, but my road is paved as it is considered a "highway"
drivers side?
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Pulled my parts trucks entire door apart for a tiny little plastic door linkage pivot that I need on my new pathy to hook up the key lock. Also pulled the old glove box skeleton and mounting fasteners. Now to re key the glove box lock to match my new truck....
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Yeah its definitely time to run the ecu diagnostics codes. Ecu in the pathfinder has self diagnostics on mode 3 of ecu functionality. There is a great guide on how to check the codes on this forum in the garage section. The ecu is located under the passenger seat.
please report back once you have completed the diagnostic and report on any possible error codes, then we can help you a little easier. Code 55 means everything is okay, anything else is a problem.
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I always use the ebay master kit but then substitute in a gates timing belt. Great quality and never had an issue going this route. Master kit on ebay includes cam seals, crank seal, waterpump, timing belt, tensioner, and stud for 100$ shipped. Gates belt at the auto parts store is about 20$ after discount. Grand total of 120$ for the whole deal. If you live in the states that would be even cheaper as shipping to canada is always more!
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My bad I should have been more clear to heat up the bung and not the sensor. Joys of typing on a cell phone!
BTW, I don't know if it's a Canadian thing or not but whenever I've seen maap gas, it's been listed as MPS gas not MAAP. So it may differ in your area.
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Be careful when doing this but it works for me every time. You will need heat. I use a MPS gas torch but a propane torch will work as well. Both can be had at any larger hardware store for about 15-20$. Its just a small torch with a bottle the size of one you would use for a camping stove.
Heat up the old o2 sensor for a good 3-4 minutes and then use a wrench to crack it. Any fitting or sensor that threads into the exhaust system generally gets seized from the rust and constant heat cycles.
You will need some torque on the wrench but with heat it will crack loose. If its still stubborn, more heat. Ive had to bake some parts for 10 mins before the expansion broke the seize but it will work.
If you need more torque on the wrench, you can use two wrenches of similar size end to end. It works well as it doubles your torque but it can be dangerous if you slip so be careful and do at your own risk. Look up on Google for a picture but it will be an easy thing to find how to slip one into the other.
Good luck!
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if smacking the starter made a difference, your commutator is probably full of carbon dust from the brushes and had found a dead-spot. I would definitely pull the starter, disassemble it, clean all the crap out of it and put it back (after testing it of course).
yup exactly.
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The other thing is it could be a sticky switch or relay contact even though you hear it now because the vehicle starts right now. Really you have to wait until the problem appears again to really narrow it down,intermittent electrical issues are always the fun ones to diagnose.
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Well that should be the inhibitor relay energizing, if that's the case you can find the starter relay and test to see if it is energizing.
Do you have a multimeter?
I can give you some tests to perform on individual relays and wire runs to confirm where the issue is.
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Yup I run the engine and accessories from a 96 r 50 pathy in my 93. I figure that once all is said and done with re grind cams and the vg33e upper manifold/n60 maf and ecu tune I'll be over 200 hp and 230 or so lb ft torque. Right now I just run headers/exhaust with vg33 and everything else is stock. I figure 180 hp and 210 lb ft right now with the work I've done but there is still a lot more to be had from this engine
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Yeah i was reading the crappy tire agm batteries were good as well
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I think it was around 110-120$ , very reasonable considering how useful it has been and is still cranking strong and holding great charge after 5 years.
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Lordco is actually where I got my optima battery from, got to love the discount!
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No problem, post up some pictures of the work if you get a chance! I'm more of a technology guy myself but carbs are still pretty cool
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The cone style filters on ebay all come with maf adapters for the n60 (and n62 from a z32tt since they use the same maf housing). Usually like 15 bucks including adapter. If ya need more torque I would always suggest a vg33 swap but the other air and exhaust flow mods will definitely help things. I'm running a vg33e in my 93 wd21 with obx headers, 2.5 exhaust, cone filter, and soon to be n60 maf and vg33e throttle body and intake manifold. Will be swapping in my old vg30e cams into the vg33e at that time and will be hoping for near 200 horsepower and maybe 220 lb ft of torque when it's all said and done. Might even be able to get a little more by working on the tune
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I would just go with an n60 or e60 maf from a maxima. They are 3" diameter and can support 350 or so horsepower. They can be had for like 20-30 bucks, you will need a tune to run it though. I'm about to test an ecu tune I'm working on to convert to n60 maf with the stock pathy ecu, I'll let ya know how it works when I try it
Scott Brady's; Tire Selection for Expedition Travel: The impact of tire width on traction
in The Garage
Posted
That's why the military use tall skinny tires. That's how I'm going for my next set. 35x10.5 or maybe even taller!