Nefarious
-
Posts
1,743 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
19
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Nefarious
-
-
JamesRich on this forum did the carburetor swap. You need a vg30s distributor which came out of Saudi Arabian Nissan laurel . The intake manifold can be either from a Nissan laurel or Mr. 510 from vg30.com. I'm sure he will give you any info you need about the swap but there is a thread on here titled 'carburetor on a vg30' type that in the search field and I'm sure it will come up. then you can see what it looks and performs like.
-
Mr 510 runs a website called vg30.com
I believe he makes carburetor kits for the vg30e engine. It may be worth getting in contact with him to see about parts availability.
-
Have you done a compression test? That should always be the first line of diagnosis when power loss is an issue. Doing a dry and the wet test can really diagnose many problems, always best to start with the free and easy stuff. It also eliminates anything mechanical as the issue.
There is a procedure in the factory service manual to test the coolant temp sensor. There is also a test mode in the ecu for testing the o2 sensor but I just read that you replaced that already.
The only way the egr is going g to cause you to lose power is if it's stuck in the open position letting exhaust gas constantly re circulate under engine load.
-
Did you try the foldout page? It has the master wiring diagram for the whole vehicle it's usually 3-4 pages long
-
That one doesn't look too bad, looks like it just wore through the sleeve. Replace with new sleeves that come with the bushing kit and you will be golden
-
Yeah it is. You just buy a suitable bearing race that fits like a cup around the TC rod bushing . Make sure it's a snug fit just like the stock stamped sheet metal cups and replace it with the bearing race. It becomes much more solid and will not tear apart like the stock ones do with age, and when I say replace I mean grind the old one off and weld the bearing race in its place.
-
I believe it's actually the ka24e 240sx that you are looking for. They are made 89-90 models and have the 'pignose' front bumper to identify them. I don't think the dual overhead ka24de throttle bodies fit.
I'm in the process of figuring out a way to mount an entire vg33e intake manifold and throttle body in a wd21/d21 truck I'll keep u posted with progress I make on it. Sofar i have the throttle body modified to scaccept the vg30 tps and throttle shaft successfully. Next is to rework the lines under the 3.3 plenum to fit in the pathy engine bay
-
telegraph creek looks like fun!
-
Yeah that's what I mentioned as the park switch. On the auto there is an inhibitor switch in the shifter console that drives an inhibitor relay. If that switch or relay have bad contacts then it will do exactly as you described. If these went bad then the starter relay would not engage so you will have to narrow down which relay you do hear clicking and which relay you don't hear clicking. Sorry I'm not sure of the physical placement of the inhibitor relay.
-
There are more specific tests I can give you to narrow it down to a single point but I need more info first on what is going on in the circuit.
-
The ECU usually sinks power which means it switches the negative end of the circuit. The power should be supplied from the battery to one end of the fuel pump relay coil and the other end of the relay coil is connected to the ECU and acts as an open circuit until the ECU switches closed which completes the current path. The ECU doesn't supply the current to the fuel pump relay it receives current FROM the fuel pump relay and switches the connection to ground closed.
Is the fuel pump relay energizing? Can you hear it click when the vehicle is set to the ON position? If the coil is engaging but there is no voltage at the at the fuel pump itself then you have bad wiring (open circuit) somewhere in the wiring between the battery and the fuel pump. (the switched wire)
If you aren't getting any voltage to the coil of the fuel pump relay then check the wiring and fuse ahead of it in the circuit where it connects to the battery, if you are getting voltage at the battery end of the fuel pump relay coil only and none on the ECU end then either the relay is dead, the wiring between the relay coil or the switch in the ECU is dead. If you have voltage on both ends of the relay coil but no relay actuation then you have stuck relay contacts.
If the coil checks out okay and the relay is closing then there is an open circuit somewhere in the wiring of the switched end of the relay.
Time to bust out the multimeter and get to work tracing where there is and isn't voltage and I can help U further from there
-
If it's auto then it's most likely a stuck starter solenoid (or one with shady contacts) or a stuck starter relay. It could also be a bad park switch but that is a less common problem. Find the park switch and test it for continuity when vehicle is in park. If ok, Test the starter relay by removing it and manually testing it for continuity across the switching pins after being supplied a 12v source to the coil. If starter relay checks out then you have a starter solenoid issue.
-
I continued mapping out an address file for the factory pathfinder ecu. Did some more refining of the timing and fuel maps of the factory tune and integrated vq maps for the n60 maf sensor to run on my truck. Today is find a good price on an 8 bit eprom emulator and figure out the best way to integrate wideband o2 logging using only factory equipment.
P.s. after some painstaking research and hours of analyzing wiring diagrams and pinouts I have deduced that a vg30e j30 maxima ecu is pretty much the same as a pathfinder ecu and although it does technically have a consult plug on the vehicle, the consult plug is NOT used for engine diagnostics. It is merely used for air bag and at trans diagnosis. The standard 12 pin check connector is used for engine diagnostics just like on a pathfinder. The VE30DE ecu does have full consult and it's also on the 3rd Gen j30 maxima but ita a dohc ecu and is very similar to a z32 ecu and won't run a vg30e.
The check connector is sent simple analog voltage signals that can be used to diagnose of course but it doesn't supply the plethora of digital information that the consult pins would supply. The pins aren't even physicslly there on the ecu so it's been disabled or was never designed into the ecu in the first place.
I even happened across an official technical service bulletin by nissan to their service techs that kept trying t get engine diagnostics from the consult plug in the vg30e maxima telling them to use the check connector since engine diagnostics aren't sent to consult.
So if consult is a must, an m30 ecu is the only viable option that I have come across!
-
I'll be starting with developing the n/a tune using virtual dyno for the main tuning and then take it to the dyno for a polish just to finish it up. Once I'm happy with my n/a setup and it's maxed out without doing engine work then I plan to run a remote mount turbo under my truck. It's body lifted and there is a massive amount of space under there the way I built my exhaust. Going for around a 15 psi turbo setup most likely with a t3/t4 hybrid turbo. Plan to run an in innovate mtx-l wideband to log runs and keep an eye on things.
-
Very nice find my friend! I didn't know r50s had a load sensing valve. That's usually just in trucks to increase rear brake bias when the rear is loaded down with weight in the box. Is there a long lever arm that reaches up near the truck body that looks like it would touch the bottom of the chassis if the rear suspension was sagged a bit? It may just be your abs module if its just some lines going to a small module with a bleeder screw on it..
-
Nice work, and that's a fine acquisition from your other half! I look forward to hearing how the new chip works out, congrats on the final year also!
Thanks for the kind words. its nice to be finished and back to work, finally have some time for projects again!
Will most definitely keep updated with progress as the last few parts arrive and the in-vehicle testing begins!
-
Here's the mass air flow sensor that I'll be using, came from a early 90s maxima.
and here is my custom modified VG33E throttle body machined to accept the VG30E tps and throttle shaft. In the process of figuring out the lines and idle control to convert the VG33E upper intake manifold to work in a WD21 chassis as well.
Tested the TPS sensor output resistance after mounting and it is exactly within spec as per FSM. Should work great!
The throttle body/intake manifold from a VG33E is not a required part of this process by any means but I had a couple lying around and I'll be running a VG33E block/heads in the truck soon enough so i thought I would see if I could make it all work at the same time to get the most performance possible.
-
Here's the new rig that this is all going into. Grad present from my other half. 1992 Path SE fully loaded with sunroof (finally!), tire carrier, 4 wheel discs, LSD, snorkel, etc.. best of all it has an immaculate frame with very little body rust. Came with a 4" trailmaster suspension lift, will be adding the 3+3 lift from my old red 93 and swapping over the VG33E swap at the same time.
-
Heres the stock 1995 pathfinder eprom chip. This has the newest version of the fuel and timing maps for the vg30e that I could find and definitely has some refinements over earlier vg30e tunes that ive seen from pathfinders and other vg30e equipped vehicles that ive seen. I had to extract the binary file from this eprom and then map out my own addressing file based on other vg30e tunes that I found along with some lucky guesses and ended up with a complete TunerPro data set to work with.
(The tape on top is to protect the chips data from being erased since the stock eproms are actually UV eraseable and sunlight can cause corruption)
The hardware that I'm using to read and write eproms.
Socketted 95 Pathfinder ECU for testing.
Shot of the fully mapped and addressed Pathfinder tune after making some changes to run the N60 maf as well as optimize fuel and timing maps, utilizing TunerPro software.
-
So after an intense final year of college I am finally finished with my diploma and I have time to get back into this project. Made quite a bit of progress on it now and I'm just waiting for my new wideband and flash EPROMs to arrive in the mail to begin testing in the truck.
I will currently be using my new 92 pathfinder socketted ECU with a new reprogrammed eeprom chip with optimized fuel and timing maps and support for an N60 maf from a maxima to get started. Wideband with logging output will be installed in the truck and the last task will be to convert the pathy to use consult for direct logging and map tracing which may involve switching to a maxima ecu.
-
Thanks for all the info man. I'll check nistunes website for the other bin files. I am actually purposely NOT using nistune as I really want to figure out a budget method of having full tuning control of a pathfinder. Nistune is really expensive after shipping to Canada and I already run Nismotronic in my 240sx which is hands down superior to Nistune anyway so if I wanted to spend a large sum of cash on tuning then I would just wait for their v6 version of Nemu hardware if I was going that route.
I really dont want to spend all that money all over again for my pathfinder. This is more so a challenge and learning experience for me to see how cheaply and easily I can come up with full tuning solution for a pathfinder by programming the chips and socketing the boards myself as well as introducing consult to the pathfinder to make it a real time viable option capable of datalogging and map tracing but with free software and very low cost hardware. Its definitely possible from what I have found so far.
I'm using tunerpro and calumsult right now for manipulating and monitoring tunes but I'm about to try some other pieces of free software as well that I've seen. Still deciding which consult to USB cable to get.. theres quite a few options there.
P.s. the mpfi swap / 10:1 vg33 swap is rad, been following this one for a while now haha. Keep up the good work man.
-
Also I've built a custom xdf file specifically for the pathy ecu and tune since it uses some different addressing than both the z31 and m30 hex addresses (it's actually a combination of both) but I can't for the life of me identify the hex address for the pathy secondary knock timing map. I tried all the common addresses used in the other nissan vg30e ecus I've found and nothing comes up. It's making me think the stock pathy ecu doesn't have the secondary timing maps that the m30 and z32 most definitely do have. From the address files I have the z31 ecu also doesn't have secondary timing maps for knock. M30 definitely does, that'd another reason I want to get a maxima bin file so I can confirm whether the maxima ecu has secondary knock maps like the m30 ecu. This way I can figure out which nissan ecu will be the best but also easiest and cheapest to acquire for us pathy guys.
-
Did you end up figuring out if the m30 injectors are larger than the pathfinder injectors? I've been dissecting the factory m30, wd21, and z31 tunes and getting a nice tune together for my truck and the factory K value is actually higher with a longer latency on the m30 bin file as opposed to the pathfinder bin file indicating that the m30 uses slightly larger injectors than the pathfinder??. These are both stock roms ripped straight from the ecu so this had me scratching my head. The K value is again higher for the z31 and I know it uses 260cc injectors so what would we be between 180 and 260 for injector size? I agree with the m30 being way too rich. I found the tune I ripped from the 1995 pathfinder ecu had the nicest n/a timing maps and the 92 pathfinder fuel map seemed the best. I believe the 92 was a Mt and the 95 was an At so that does make sense that the 92 mt would have more refined fuel map. The timing maps were identical in lower rpm zones but the 95 at definitely has much more refined timing maps in the high end of the scale.
Do you happen to have a copy of the said original bin files for the d21 and the maxima? I'm curious to see what the maxima especially did for fueling. Also trying to see about using a maxima ecu in a pathfinder but there's a tsb from nissan that says that the maxima only used consult for diagnosing auto Trans issues etc and is not connected to engine diagnostics. Do you have a picture of the pin out of the ecu harness of the m30 ecu connector handy so I can compare it to that of the maxima to see if the maxima ecu will work to enable consult for us pathy owners! I'll be sharing all my info and finds in my custom ecu tuning thread.
-
If it were me I wouldn't reuse the stock upper brackets as they are barely strong enough for the factory sheet metal bumper let alone a heavy aftermarket bumper but I'm sure they will hold it on in a pinch. Just wouldn't want to see what would happen if u hit a deer or something with those stock ones there. Might have a wrecked front end!
What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by Nefarious
I personally run an optima yellow top sealed agm deep cycle battery. When they go on sale is the time to grab them, I think I got mine for about 120$. It's lasted me 5 years so far and I've run it low with stereo and lighting equipment many times with the vehicle off while camping and working (safe to do with deep cycle). It's always started the truck back up even after being significantly drained. If you go out in the bush a lot or like to run powered things on your truck for extended periods it's the way to go. I hear the Canadian tire agm batteries are really good too if you live in canada.