Nefarious

Hm excellent. That sounds reasonable to me, I am on my way to the parts store right now thanks

Lol ya, only a slight bit of fail there.

The m30 is 16 bit hey, blah don't want that then. I want to stick with the simplicity of the 8 bit ecu, one 16 bit is enough to work with lol. Has anyone here used a z31 ecu in a pathfinder? Does it support consult? I see its 8 bit as well.. what about the harness? Plug and play or cut and splice?

Thanks kingman!! That's bloody perfect. Exactly what I was looking for! Man I love Npora!! This will be perfect for the mid mount turbo setup on the vg33e too Hey who do I contact for some stickers? I been a member here for ages and I still have no Npora sticker on my rig! It's just not right...lol

Also would a different ecu, possibly one with a CONSULT plug work? I remember someone did a M30 ecu swap before, is that also 8 bit? Does it have consult?

hey all, I am preparing to begin tuning my pathfinder. It's a 93 WD21 with a 97 R50 VG33E swap. It has a free-flowing intake, as well as OBX headers, 2.5" exhaust, full EGR delete, etc.. but is still running the factory VG30E ecu, injectors, intake manifold, etc.. I can tell with all the changes to that have been made to the truck, the factory tune is just not doing the truck justice, I know I can get a lot more power out of this setup now with a good tune. I am also planning on swapping my old VG30E cams into the truck at the same time so the tune will be needed even more. I have a bag of solid bridged, gold plated connector EPROM sockets and I'm going to get a spare ECU to play around with. My question is does anyone else on this forum do their own tunes? Any good tune files .bin etc hosted on here? I looked but couldn't find anything. I'm kind of surprised there isnt a lot of resources for information for tuning pathfinders. It's a far easier ecu to work with than what I have in my 240SX which is 16 bit and requires a daughterboard (I run a Nismotronic in there and love it but it was expensive and I don't want to buy another one lol). Anyways I will keep up with working on getting an ecu ready to tune but if anyone can supply some maf VQ tables or bin files for a pathfinder ecu (VG30E), even maf VQ tables from a maxima or other nissan with a bigger maf is fine, I plan on running some larger injectors (Q45), larger MAF(Maxima, z32, q45 etc), larger throttle body (prob q45) and larger intake tube to match the rest of the big pipes.

So my best bet is to use the stock V power plugs for the 3.0 but gap closer to the 3.3? Right on, I'll just do that. After this the tune up will be done and I can start tuning. Going to install an eprom socket in class and start tuning my 3.3 swapped pathy with intake/headers/exhaust/egr delete. Maybe get some more ponies and ft lbs Quite possibly more mpg as well if it goes anything like my 240sx did.

Hey I just need some opinions on which spark plugs and which gaps to use....I have 3.0 intake mani, injectors, distributor, mounted on the 3.3 and using all r50 accessories in my wd21 and been running it for a year with the old plugs but its time to get some new plugs. Would it be best to just get new 3.0 plugs and gap to stock .031 to .035 or should I use the plugs for the 3.3 and gap to the 3.3 litres stock gap of .039 to .044 ?? Which would give me the best performance and efficiency for fuel usage?

yeah its about as bad ass as it gets lol, only problem is coughing up the dough maybe ill just wait until after school is done and im back at work. lol

I use plastic polycarbonate hub rings on my 240sx, I have no balance issues and I've been using them for months,

Finished welding up the exhaust hangers for my custom setup, ordered prothane bushings for the front uca and lca. Full poly front after these!

swap it to 4x4 and use the whole thing, thats what i would do anyways. but if you want to stay 2wd then theres a good chance that yes you could swap the tailshafts over as the transmission code is the same between the two, but maybe someone else can chime in that knows for sure.

Adjusting the t bars up to increase height will increase negative camber. So in your case it should help your alignment

Fired it up for the first time after all the work I've done over the last couple months. What a good feeling. No leaks in the custom exhaust I made yay! Obx headers with 2" outlets, all custom from there back, 2" y pipe until the merge then 2.5" the rest of the way back, magnaflow hi flow cat, flowmaster 40, to a side exit. Sounds pretty mean, I must say.

ahh yeah, viscous eh, i was hoping it was helical! thanks for the info man

Hmm... so the carrier is compatible between 370z and pathys front r200a? Or just the side bearing and shims.

The upper manifold is 5x Allen, the lower manifold is 4x Allen and 4x 12mm OD nuts

There's 2x 5/8ths or so hoses that go down behind the plenum, I found it easiest to get the clamps up off bottom connections and into the middle of the tube, then use a long flat head screw driver or prybar to pry up on the bottom of the hoses. They can be really stiff the first time off. The electrical connector goes to the back of the plenum, and underneath. I think its iacv but I can't remember, what I do is remove everything first except the fat 1" straight tube (I think the pcv valve cover outlet) and that last electrical connector. Save those 2 things for last, because when u detach the upper plenum u can rotate it upwards from the drivers side and pry the edge over to the passenger side which will make that 1" tube easy to remove and give u access to the stupid wire clip on the connector. Hope I was clear, hard to type out what I'm visualizing!

i got just the bulbs/ballasts/inverters, they are a/c power headlights so they use an inverter. supposed to be a lot better light stability, bulb life, and brightness. they were only 60 bux shipped though! and they are bi-xenon so hi/low beam

I wouldnt run a 10.5" tire on a 10" rim, 11.5 is pushing it, 12.5 is perfect. i run 33x12.5x15 on 15x10 rims and they are a perfect fit, i wouldnt go any narrower of a tire than 12.5 personally, but 11.5 would work. by the way i run 33x12.5 duratracs and i can fully stuff them with my setup, just a thought.

Finished fabbing up a custom 2.5" exhaust to fit my obx headers, painted the whole system in flat black header paint, next is header wrap for the runners and y pipe, and gotta weld up one more hanger.

Use super long needle nose for the clamps behind the plenum, they are the only problem I ever had. Also, watch for the last electrical connector which is underneath and right at the back of the plenum. I've had mine off a few times, its really not too bad.

Check the 240sx sites, if anyone has done it, its probably the 240 crowd. Lol. They do mods to their mod, mods.. lol

I run 33x12.5x15 Goodyear duratracs on 15x10 rims. Not sure the offset but its extremely negative. Somewhere around -40 or -50 offset on a 10" wide rim. I run a 3" body lift, 3.5" front suspension lift with low profile bump stops and 1" balljoint spacers, 4" rear suspention lift. To get full flex and good wheel stuff I had to cut the front fender edges front and rear of the arch, cut the body seam lineon the back edge of the front wheel well... pushed all the metal back and re welded it further back. No more rubbing in the front even when flexing and wheel turned fully. Also I had to cut just a tiny bit of metal out of the rear wheel well corners, to stuff the tires fully in the rear. Works really well for me. Running a lower offset rim will keep the tires away from the frame quite a lot. Mine don't even come close. I still run stock fender flares, just cut the fronts and backs off. I actually have more inner clearance now than stock 28.8x9 tires. All the width goes out, not in. Easier to work on steering and underside of motor on the trail with the wheels on. Anyways that's how I went about it!