Nefarious

I got my chrome metal door handles from eBay for 20 bucks for both. For a hardbody

Welder + grinder = win

Loving this one mr. 510... seriously. this is how it should have been from the factory. I highly doubt there would be any negative effects, seems like the truck should ride smoother and more controlled if anything... I have poly in mine and I noticed a HUGE difference over stock (i also had one compression rod that was worn half way through before i went poly), this would seem like it would be another step above again and to me (in my brain, lol) seems it would help front end articulation...

Sounds like a fun weekend. My pathy is now parked for a few months to do some serious work ( front and rear lsds, modified front ucas for longer travel, more armor ) just waiting on my coilovers for my 240sx and then its pathy time

When you say end of the ARM down, do you mean the part where the balljoint attaches?? At the very end of the ARM? Like make it step down towards the ground like a built in balljoint spacer? ?

That's exactly what I plan on doing as soon as I find some used oem arms for cheap. Cut and bend the angle by the balljoint and fill in the triangle holes left and cut down the stock bump pad shorter and re weld it back on. I figure after that alignment should be easy to get close and travel increased quite a lot.

Gotta love the easy 90ft lbs on the VG30E, I just did the timing and full 120k service on my 1990 300ZX with a VG30DE... 159-178 ft lbs... lol I couldn't bloody believe it!

Okay just wanted to throw an update on here about the 2WD steering system durability. I have now wheeled it well over 100km of pure trail riding, still have yet to bend, break or wear anything out. Still feels totally solid. Just took her on 50km trip through some seriously washed out and rocky jeep trails (i say jeep trails cause the only things i saw running them were jeeps with 33-37"+ tires!) got a lot of looks and salutes with my pathy out running with the jeep crowd lol. Huge washouts, really flexy bits, it has held up GREAT, even climbing down with each tire on walls each side. I gotta say for 140ish bucks canadian this hands down beats the stock setup. my wheel stays about 50-70% more stable (50-70% less bump steer), it's easier to turn my wheels (power steering feels stronger), my steering angles stay at a very comfortable level even with my over 3" of front torsion bar cranking so im sure the joints will last a lot longer. With this much torsion crank I wore out my old stock setup centerlink within 100km of trail riding, this setup with the exact same brand 2wd hardbody parts are still like new after over 100km of much more intense and technical (and rocky) trails. The only weak point I could see is if I bent the inner tie rod but it hasn't happened yet and I took some pretty heavy hits on rocks. Keep in mind these are the cheapest steering parts I could find to do this setup on a tight budget and they are holding up fantastic. (Qsten 2wd inner tie rods, OEParts 2wd centerlink, OEParts 4wd Inner tie rods.) I took some pretty hard hits on some pretty big rocks and have had zero issues. Just wanted to throw an update for anyone who actually wheels their truck, this setup is great for lifted IFS.

Hey guys, I am looking for a lightened flywheel for my 240sx (it's running a custom large clutch setup with a d21 flywheel and a 300zx turbo clutch upgrading clutch surface from 225mm to 240mm). Problem is the d21 flywheel is just so damn heavy, I want a lighter than factory flywheel not a 8-9 lb heavier flywheel. The clamping force on this clutch is huge, god for my future turbo plans but I need to get a lighter flywheel in there. Another alternative, how much weight do u think a shop could machine out of a stock d21 flywheel? stock 240sx is 21 lbs im aiming for about 15 lbs. thanks. any aftermarket options for lightweight flywheel for a d21 ka24e? I found one by fidanza on andys auto sport but it was 450$+ shipping. hoping for a cheaper option...lol

I'm running about 3" of torsion bar crank up front with stock ucas and low profile bump stops and my cvs have never had a problem and I wheel at least once a week on 33x12.5 tires on 15x10 steel rims, i use the napa lifetime warranty cvs. they have been great for years, no issues, no torn boots. we will see how they hold up once i get the balljoint spacer welded in there as well, haha!

I would definitely use an idler arm brace, I made my own out of 1/4 inch steel plate. The ford shocks i used were i believe 87 ford bronco II front shocks up front, and 1995 f350 single shock rear shocks in the rear. (there was a hd version with dual shocks that were different). To make the rear shocks work you have to swap out the new lower ford shock bushing with a pathfinder oem lower shock bushing, it will swap in place inside the eyelet of the bottom mounting point of the shock wehre it bolts to the axle. You will probably have to reindex your torsion bars (there is a guide on here somewhere for that) to get the amount of lift you want. I am currently running about 3" up front or just a little more maybe. I am using stock upper control arms still but will get aftermarkets when i find the right deal. The low profile bump stop allows your wheels to travel downwards away from the truck more, since when you crank your t-bars you are losing droop travel since you are pushing your control arm closer to the bump stop. The thinner bump stops allow your wheels to drop more after being lifted and increases your total front end travel so your ride doesn't get too harsh over pot holes. I am going to weld in some balljoint spacers on top of the low profile bump stops to get maximum travel while retaining the 3" front lift.

ok thanks just wanted to get some heads up before i pull everything apart. seriously thinking about that phenolic spacer while i'm at it to lower intake temps. I'll order a new set of injector o-rings as well. thanks for the heads up boys (and girls).

No it's not burning any oil, well not enough to notice it go down the last 8000km or so anyways. You know I have a slight miss as well, mostly noticeable on deceleration. When you say leaky, do you mean the o-ring seal, or the injector itself is shot??

Hey everyone. I was a little late on my oil change last time and I started hearing my lifters a little on acceleration. As soon as I heard it I went home and changed my oil and when it drained out, it was thinner than normal and smelled slightly of gas. Normal colour for old oil just thinner and smelly. I put in some fresh 5x30. My dipstick was full, my vg33e swapped motor doesn't burn a drop of oil, so I'm assuming I don't have bad rings or anything, the motor feels strong. I did use the original injector o-rings when I swapped over the vg30e fuel rail to the vg33e lower manifold, is it possible for fuel to get into the oil from leaking o-rings?? My truck was running pretty rich when I first did the vg33e swap it took the old vg30e ecu a while to relearn the new engine (also added headers/intake/exhaust at the same time so it was a big change from the stock vg30e with cracked exhaust manifold, lol). It doesn't seem like its burning too rich now though. Just looking for opinions before I tear the upper manifold down again! thanks

toyota rims will fit but u will need the funny toyota lug nuts that are really long.

Poly Bushings up front made a huge improvement in my ride, steering and vehicle stability went up huge. I also need to repair my Bushings cups too though. I am going to grind them clean and weld on the fattest bearing cups I can find to increase caster to help align my 3" torsion crank

I have taken my setup out wheeling up mount sumas trails, system is still great! Going up again tomorrow

i wheeled with a a string line toe setting and the camber was pretty hard negative lean. you will be fine I ran that way for months and barely noticed it. it will actually help you to dig in offroad just increases outer edge tire wear. watch your tires, otherwise have fun and get an alignment after (who knows you may need one after a good wheeling trip anyways )

dude, i gotta say mad props to you for this thread. awesome info and awesome pics/details. I am about to start tuning my pathy to make use of the bigger engine and breather mods/cams, and soon to be turbo. great job man, keep it comin'!

The Vg33e engine and auto trans will swap into your pathy. If they used a tx10 transfer case then you are good there too otherwise you must use your old transfer case. P.s. good luck getting motor and trans in together in one piece. I pulled a Vg30e + trans + tcase all in one go before... even with the front of the truck half chopped up it wasn't easy. Doing it separately was much easier when I did it again.

Yeah lower and upper control ARM Bushings and super fat bearing cups for the tension rods, Gunna aim for 7 to 8 degrees positive caster. Gunna weld some balljoint spacers to my ucas to get camber in spec and get some droop travel back

It's really not that hard to rebuild those things, should only take a couple hours. It's just the big 24 mm nut holding the radius arm in that takes a bit of work to get off, the rest should be quite easy to get in and out...just make sure to have the vehicle on the ground and have a jack to lift on the lower control arm in a good spot to cycle the suspension a bit to get it to sit loose. I have had mine in and out a few times now, my bearing cups werent actually bad when i replaced my bushings with poly, but I am going to rebuild them anyways with really fat bearing cups to increase the caster since I have so much lift up front.

Phew... another couple days working on the 300ZX... another hour and I will have finished the full 120k service. Timing belt, idler bearings, tensioner bearings, camshaft seals, water pump, thermostat and some blood from my hands! Just need to throw the accessory belts and the rad/fan/shroud and she is done! Almost ready for the road and then the pathy is getting some major work done.