Nefarious

i have a few times made cases for my own electronics. if you had access to a small break or even if you are handy with some sheet metal benders you could quite easilly make a cap with some mounting tabs with holes drilled in them out of sheet metal. drill a couple holes on the flat surface near the edge of the hole you cut in the stock ecu casing and tap them for some uber small computer screws. i can envision it right now.

well not on the pathy, but i tore down the front of my 1990 300zx in preparation for doing the 120k service. timing belt, idlers, tensioner, cam seals, etc... ahhh what a fun car to work on, lol. got it all torn down except for the crank pulley now. one more day and i should be done....

Oh right my bad, ill edit my post so no further confusion

no problemo man, it really is a far better feeling steering than stock when the front suspension is lifted.

what is this volumetric efficiency analyzer, is that a part of the ms3 setup? or a seperate tuning program?

1994sev6 you dont know what you are talking about. If you understood anything about engine management then you would know factory tunes are very conservative. If you run a stand alone engine management system you write your own tune to take advantage of your engine. Lean it out at idle and low load cruise conditions. Play with the timing fuel and spark curves to keep the vehicle in its most efficient state and to get the most power up top. It is a proven method IF you can write a tune. Also opens the door to turbo or supercharger options. Do some research before you roast someone that knows a lot more than you.

I have wanted to ms for a while to take advantage of my Vg33 swap and breather mods/ca, also for the eventual turbo. Looking forward to this thread. Are you going to run coil on plug or distributor?? How much was your ms kit?is it ms3 ? How much?

ya i left my big fat nice shiny new crescent wrench at the wreckers over night in the pathy section by accident, went back next day and it was gone of course.

wd21 and d21 as long as they are both 4wd models should be the same. and yes you will need to have machine work done to the tie rod adjustment sleeve or you could always try buying an 16.5mm drill bit and a 18mm tap and get some sacrificial tie rod adjustment sleeves and try it yourself.

Thought my alternator was shot. Dead optima yellow top and the multimeter readings were all over the place then realised the power wire nut on the alternator was loose. 10 mins of head scratching and it ended up being simple and free.... and my yellowtop is still happy after a full discharge ....gotta love when things work out.

I didn't use a drop bracket for my body lift... i likewise popped the bottom portion out and now run dual altima electric fans... it's really worth the effort.

wheel bearings should all be the same bro. They only had one style as far as I know for each gen of pathy, don't see why they would have multiple sets for the later models.

Read back through the posts, I made it quite clear what is required. If you have a 93 steering gear box you will need to check the taper, trucks made before 07/1992 will have the correct size taper, trucks built after 07/1992 will have to swap the pitman arm from a 91-92 truck (with production dates between 07/1990-07/1992). You can find the production date of your truck and also of the donor vehicle on the inside edge of the drivers door on the VIN/door tag sticker. You will also have to have the tie rod adjustment sleeves machined on the right hand threaded side from 16mm to 18mm and then re-tapped. Use the 2wd inner tie rods on the inside and use the 4wd INNER tie rods on the outside (you get rid of your factory OUTER tie rods).

Just finished rekeying all my locks... went from one key working in the ignition and no keys that work in the doors or hatch. Thanks p.o.. to one key for everything, and I can finally open my hatch glass! Happy day lol.

well in the entire time owning my pathfinder it has never had even one working key for the outside of the truck. My keyless entry was the only way to lock/unlock the trunk. Well my battery died the other night, right dead, still to be determined what caused it. I was locked out of my truck and I didn't even lock my keys in. Phoned tow truck to open up the door and decided it's time to make my one working key (ignition) work on my whole truck! so off I went to the junk yard and got 1 good driver door lock cylinder and sensor from a 95 to replace the smashed in driver door lock cylinder, pulled 4 extra cylinders for parts. replaced my broken drivers door lock cylinder (someone had screw drivered it at some point), straightened the bent metal around the lock hole. gutted the 4 extra lock cylinders for the pins, measured with a digital caliper and organized to the 4 types into bags. took my passenger door lock out (it didn't match the ignition) and began the learning process! So far I have my driver/passenger doors rekeyed to my ignition! Still have to do glove box and hatch glass today. Screw paying a lock smith! Total cost to replace broken lock and rekey the others: 10$

that is awesome! what drivetrain are you running to make the passenger drop diff work?

take measurements of the inside diameter of the hole the bushing fits into and then phone energy suspension with the exact dimensions, they should have something that will fit. they make a LOT of bushings and only half of them are listed..

fronts springs out of a v8 jeep grand cherokee. look at the coils there should be a yellow paper tag with a part number starting with FN. those are what ya want. You cut off the little pig tail end and then fit them in the rear of the pathy. Your 2 door should get 3 inches of rear suspension lift with those springs for 50$ bucks give or take. I live by you and I went to garys auto, its a jeep place. for the front suspension you can just crank up your torsion bars 2-3 inches (probably need to reindex them) and get some low profile bump stops so you can keep some down travel once cranked up. cheapest way to do it and my truck doesn't ride bad at all. low profile bumpstops from lordco were about 16 bucks for the pair. there's a full 3 inch lift for about 60-75 bucks. can't really complain there, then just take it in and get an alignment (a full proper one where they shim the upper control arms for camber/caster) and you will be good to go. for shocks I used (i think '85 or '87) ford bronco II shocks up front (they are a little longer than stock so they allow you to use up the low profile bump stops increased travel). for the rear I used 1997 ford f350 (single rear shock type), they are 3" longer than stock shocks so you can get some crazy flex in the rear with the jeep springs/ford f350 shocks. I believe I paid 35$ per shock and they let me max out my front and rear suspension travel. 50+16+(35x4)= 206$ plus tax for full 3 inch lift with new extended shocks all around. can't really complain! i been rockin mine for about a year now with no issues. p.s. to make the f350 shocks fit the rear properly you need to change out the lower shock bushings to the pathfinder lower shock bushing. it's really easy or you can just press out the little metal sleeve in the middle and slide it over the lower shock tab and then plaster it with some 3m window weld (fast curing polyurethane) and make your own bushing out of it. your call. rear lift flexing, still got more to go too, thats with jgc springs and ford f350 shocks.

Hahaha ya I figured I would need some serious luck. I've done all poly Bushings in my s13. I was hoping the wd would be about the same lol. Uca looks easy.... lca looks stupid.... I might also wait till I sas for that one.... lol

Wow hostility, the guy was just trying to help.