Nefarious

Sorry I didn't know they didn't come with 31x10.5 stock. My buddy has a 97 le stock height running 31x10.5 bfg ats and he has no issues....wheels fine. If there are any rubbing issues they are very minor

if you look inside the electrical connector you will see there are small metal tabs on the connector itself (female end) and pins on the sensor (male end). all you have to do is get a small fine pick and bend the two little tabs on the female end down towards the middle to kind of close the gap, which in turn tightens up the connection between the pins and the sockets. works really well to refurb old connectors. use a small amount of dielectric grease on it afterward as well to prevent further corrosion and make unplugging the connector easier in the future

u should be fine, 31x10.5 is stock size?

yeah caster is fun to get right on these rigs. im still working on mine with 3.5 inches of torsion bar crank lol

excellent, thanks for the update. where did you guys get yours from? im trying to find a good price on them... im up in canada so it does make it a little more difficult. might see if the local auto place can get them as i get a discount there...

ya check the codes first, after that go through and check/clean all the electrical connectors for the engine sensors, mainly the maf. if any pins are loose then use a small pick and tighten them again. also check engine grounds, use a digital multi meter and check in "ohm" mode to test the resistance of the ground circuit of the vehicle. with the car off, put one test lead on the negative terminal of the battery and then use the other test lead and go around touching random metal parts in the engine, check against the sheet metal of the body, the engine block, the manifolds, etc. if you see ANY resistance (anything other than 0 ohms) between these points you need to add a ground wire to that area or replace the ground wire that is faulty in the area. dirty electrical connectors and weak grounds will cause all sorts of issues for nissans or any other car for that matter. easiest and usually free things to check and most probable.

tension/compression rod bushing is the term you are looking for and I believe that is what he meant here: "We've had the TREs, ball joints, centerlink and idler replaced, and did the strut rod bushings a few months ago." strut rod is the usual auto part name for the tension/compression rod. Nissan likes to make up fancy terms for their suspension arms. my bet is the upper/lower control arm bushings, but i wouldnt rule out the steering gear/shaft(mainly the gear). I've had to replace all of these <<

all you can really do is pull it apart and take a look, see if you can find the adjustment they are talking about and maybe add some shims (or washers) if possible. pretty hard to imagine a vehicle from 07 would have a stretched cable....but who knows? i would just pull the door handle out and inspect it and see if you cant find the problem. even then if you have the order the part from nissan yourself it would be a LOT cheaper to do it yourself. See if you can't find a factory service manual for the R51 pathfinder, shouldnt be that hard to find

check, clean and tighten the pins of the maf sensor harness plug with a small pick. most likely culprit. it's happened to me! wideband was showing the mixture dipping as rich as 9:1 at idle. basically just drowning the engine in fuel. cleaned and tightened the pins and back to a perfect 14.5-15 afrs

front diff is just open it takes regular gear oil, the rear needs lsd additive IF you have an lsd. to check the balljoints you jack up the vehicle and use a jack to cycle and fully onload the suspension. if theres play you will see it. the joint should only rotate on its pivot axis. if there's any up and down motion like the joint is being pulled out of its socket then its loose. also if you have clunking in your front end its most likely your balljoints too... shuddering while turning is probably your LSD. it probably has regular diff fluid in it so it is not disengaging the clutch packs and acting locked all the time. well that is if you had the fluid changed recently and the wrong fluid was used. did this problem just spring up or did you buy the truck like that or? more history would help to determine what may have caused it

if the center link, tie rods, idler AND upper/lower balljoints are all new and inspected to be in good working order, the only other thing it would be is the steering gear (box) or steering shaft. check the joints and the center section for wear. as mentioned above have someone rotate the wheel gently back and forth and inspect every joint in the steering starting at the top of the column. check the rag joint, check the sliding center section, check the metal u-joints at the bottom near the steering gear. check the steering gear carefully itself. hold your hand on each side of the steering gear itself. one hand on the steering shaft, one on the pinion arm and have someone rotate the wheel back and forth slightly. the pinion arm should move IMMEDIATELY with the steering shaft movement, if the steering shaft moves a bit first and the pinion arm lags behind then your play is there. Even a small amount of play in the gear will feel like a lot more play on the road. keep in mind the steering shaft moves many more times around than the pinion arm side moves so it is kind of difficult to feel the play there unless its bad. you can adjust your steering gear but be very careful doing it. there is a procedure that you must follow or risk serious damage to the steering gears internals and turn them into powder. are your wheel bearings loose? any noise going down the highway? a very loose wheelbearing will cause wander. that would be all of the mechanical possibilities, other than that you just have the bushings. you said you did your tension/compression rod bushings and bushing cups so all that is left is the upper/lower control arm bushings. have you inspected them at all? i have seen some control arm bushings (uppers usually on a pathfinder) that get REALLY bad and cause the alignment to change everytime the truck moves or hits a bump, very unstable at speeds. alignment is constantly changing which also causes wander. check your upper/lower control arm bushings and the steering gear/shaft itself that's where I would look anyways if the other main stuff like tie rods and balljoints are already taken care of. you can get a cheap replacement set of polyurethane bushings for the upper/lower control arms. they are 30-40$ per set on ebay and contain replacement buhsings for both the upper AND lower bushings on both sides for the control arms. Prothane is the brand. Hope this helps!

I'm thinking about trying these to get that extra lift in the rear of my pathfinder. Did it give the full advertised 1.5 inches and did you use the daystar dodge 1500 ones mentioned? I'm trying to get the 4.5 inches of suspension lift I need in the rear. This could be the perfect solution to add to my 3" lift springs.

Looking good so far. I have already done several of the exact same fixes to my rig. My tension rods and under the rear seats were identical Haha. Funny how these trucks always wear the same.

nah just used gasket remover and a plastic razor blade. i dont use metal to scrape aluminum. the lifter noise is pretty consistent and audible. it doesnt sound aggressive but you can always hear it. we are weighing the pros and cons of what to do. i could replace the lifters but the amount of work that takes vs. just doing a vg33e swap on her truck like i did to mine. vg33e totally changed my truck and i fell in love all over again and i think i would rather just throw one of those in her truck too instead of messing around with head work on a 200k mile vg30. the rear main seal is also leaking noticeably so the engine already has to come out.. might just be time to pull a 3.3 at pick a part. 195$ if we pull it. can't really complain.

well the bug deflector and window rain guards had some damage on them so i left them but i did get a 92 model rear spoiler that i was missing on my truck (just empty holes on the top of the hatch). also got a perfect front right corner light in chrome and 2 rear headrests in grey leather for my girlfriends 93 path. ended up scoring it all for 50 bones. good day for the pathy family. lol

creaking in the front end doing turns/over bumps could be the front ball joints, my gfs 93 pathy just had a very squeaky front end over bumps and when going slowly with the wheels turned sharply. did the lower balljoints now its silent. worth checking them

Fixed the dash gauge illumination and front left turn signal on my girlfriends 93 SE, looked at and pondered plans for my 93 XE. About to go pick up some rare options from a parts truck.. window rain deflectors all around, front hood bug deflector.. also grabbing the rear spoiler and hinges, front right corner light, and rear headrests for 100$. Seems a good deal to me

Well it finally bothered me enough, I took another crack and fixed it! It was a ground wire. Ended up being the pink with black stripe wire that needed to be at ground. Just went through one by one with each of the cut wires trying the gauge lights each time. We got lucky and the lights now work great and so does the head unit! So if anyone else has this problem in the future...PINK/BLACK STRIPE wire must be put to ground for the illumination of the dash gauges to work!

btw typo... I meant octane up above there. Just noticed I typed octave...lol. Too much electronics school lately and not enough sleep! Hahaha. Won't let me edit for some reason?

well thats all the pics that I could find, hope this helps everyone thats been asking!!

and this is where the o2 sensor goes. used this to plug the egr bung of the obx headers. its a plug i found in the side of an old 240sx transmission, 27mm head on it, the threads fit the headers perfectly to block the egr for now. may add it later. came from here. lucky find, i love when that happens. well thats all the pics that I could find, hope this helps everyone thats been asking!! I have a bunch of build updates, just fine tuning and perfecting things with the swap/truck. Ill probably start a new thread for that one!

another shot of the altima e-fan. got the y pipe finished. first time at this, i think it turned out okay. sounds good it even fits. will header wrap later. gunna add flanges further down the road but for now this will do, yay for exhaust clamps (sigh)

had to move the power steering reservoir over to the driver side of the truck to match up with the new power steering pump location. needed to get rid of the air box, using an open filter for now until i get my inline snorkel filter in it's place. all my steering equipment is on one side of the truck now! cool! the battery/alt are right beside each other now too like it was meant to be. go it all together, everything hooked up! got some Altima electric fans wired up too, so much more engine bay and work space now. a little more powah too. new routing for the power steering, all within about a foot of space!

my awesome wire hangers to fab up an exhaust system for this truck. (a learning experience, haha) getting the Y transition together trying to get the pipe as high up as possible, with plans to use header wrap after to insulate everything.