WarehouseRat

simply orange w/vanilla ice cream

checking with a gauge wount tell him if the sensor is bad which is why you test the switch first. To my knowledge there are three types of oil pressure sending unit. The first is the oldest, and is nothing more than a port in the output side of the oil pump/engine oil gallery [passages] system, to which a tube is attached connecting the output to a mechanical guage on the instrument panel. The next type is a screw-in device which has a diaphram or a transducer which is attached to an electromechanical switch and by wire is connected to a light in the instrument panel. This is commonly refered to as an "Idiot Light." The sending unit is calabrated to turn the switch/electrical current/light on when the oil pressure is below a safe level for continued operation. As the oil pressure is generally directly proportional the engine RPM [revolutions per minute], the light tends to come on at very low idle speeds, and go out as RPM increases. The third type is similar to the second type, except that it's electrical voltage output is directly proportional to the actual oil pressure, and when fed to an instrument panel electrical guage, will indicate the relative oil pressure [low, medium, high, and pressures in between. Like I said test the sending unit, if its good then you most likely need a oil pump or your pickup tube may be clogged, remember k.i.s.s, easier to test and replace oil sending unit then to pull the oil pan or the pump

i have not found any projector housing for the pathy you can get the euro clear housings and run a hid system, blinding others is a matter of adjustment, i run hella 125watt off road bulbs in my housings, 125watt low beam 155watt high beam, its a night and day difference almost as bright as hids

epic he is my weapon, 86 gxl w lt4 block w/lt1 portflow heads, deltek coil pack conversion, 4-1 custom headers, mcloed clutch system, t56 6 speed, drop in fuel cell, lt4 gm hot cam swap, mazdaspeed big brake kit, t2 lsd built kaaz lsd, tein super drift coilovers, supernow tie bars, bride low max buckets, takata harnesses, 8 point cage, stitch welded chassis

only balls you can lose are your's lol

ground the switch out and see if the light goes out if it does then the sensor is good, and you most likely need a oil pump

better stitch weld that rx7 chassis before the ls1 install other wise the car will stress and pull itself apart, next time post a pic of your real bike as the one posted was from a calandar lol

metal or plastic, both are available for the pathy, so no custom radiator fab is needed.

manual swap comin soon lol

nope but i have seen it on maximas and altimas

price jump due to goverment bail-outs and lack of parts from japan as most were washed out to sea during there wave festival

take it to a body shop and have it painted correctly as anything less will kill some of the value a good painter could match and blend the area in less then a hour

88 is a totally different hub then what he has, apples and oranges

you most likely have debris caught-up in the shift plate and will need a reverse-flow pressure flush or rebuild the shift plate, if there is slipage then count on replacing the tq converter now instead of later cause it will fail if it has slipped, its just a question of when lol

or replace the trailer jack with a unit that pivot out of the way problem solvedtrailor jack

my pathy does as well as a under hood light, glovebox, ash tray, center console compartment and rear entry, the original owner added every option when he ordered the pathy, im the second owner

get a universal if you wanna do away with the tranny cooler internally, measure how long and wide the radiator is and get a model thats close and the inlet outlet location is correct, do not get a radiator with plastic end caps all metal or go home

also flush the coolant system well, they may have left a few chunks of gasket in the system and its pluging up the flow, i have seen this a few times, possibly t-stat is backwards lol, if the hg is blown make damn sure the the block is decked and the cyclinders checked and rebored/reringed if it not tits, other wise your chasing your tail, cheapest way is the jdm way get a whole swap if you can as the jdm ecu's makes more power compared to its usdm counter-part, if this wasnt like this before the repair i say make them fix it at there expense due to fault in craftmanship.

its a internal issue with the windings on the tach head its self yah the screws can come loose and cause this but its most likely time for a new tach head

just drive with a little common sense and you will be fine just dont do crap that over your /or your rigs ability, dessert racing takes it toll on tire suspension and brakes, and coolant systems the most, i would be willing to bet a pathy in top running condidtion and a good driver could do the baja 500 stock class and win

i notice a few mpg better with the stock rack off verses on, and the noise level is lower i get a little howl from the sunroof seal hinge area though, i would say remove the rack if its not used daily, i would also keep the oem support rails as they are expensive and hard to get not all messed up, just tape them together and put in the garage attic like me, as it adds value to the rig if you go to sell your pathy

timings off for sure, and they most likely over tensioned the belt as well beings they cant set the timing right, take it back and tell them to fix it or see you in court

replace the sensor, its a independend sub-system, and the brake fluid woundn't make the abs light come on but it will make the brake light come on, u can test the moisture level of the brake fluid with a some simple brake test strips

only the rear light comes on with the hatch/glass, only the other doors operate the dome /footwell lights if the switch is in the right position, footwell lights work regardless of the switch position

fluidyne,spal,be-cool,afco,griffin all make universal fitment single core in a few dozen sizes, summit is your best bet in finding one that fits the bill, for the record single cores only flow faster, not cool any better think surface area, fin count is more important