88pathoffroad

Very nice! I should do that too.

Not at all? Frontier ≠ Pathy in that regard.

Degreaser or tire cleaner.

Draw a chalk line across the tread. Drive forward several car lengths and then stop. Examine the line on the tire. If your line is worn off only across the outer edges of the tread, you need more pressure. If the line is worn off across the center only, your pressure is too high. Look for the line to wear off evenly for best pressure settings.

That's the upper control arm mount...yeah, that needs to go back on.

So, what happens during a water crossing?

99.99% of people HAVE stock bumpers that aren't welded on. It's not that bad, really.

It's supposed to go into Power mode when you floor it, then after you don't need it, it should turn off by itself after it shifts to the next gear or when you get to a constant/cruising speed.

Rear axle control arm bushings. You can either buy new polyurethane bushings and try to replace them yourself or buy whole new control arms from Nissan that have the same old craptastic OEM bushings in them. Happens all the time to R50's from 96-99.

Change the temp sensor on top of the intake and see if that fixes it. They're only like $7.

Ugh, this.....has.....been....covered..... Get some degreaser. Spray it on the dirty stuff. Use water to wash it off. Try not to spray the electrical connectors directly.

My Pathfinder often vibrates when I break it, too.

Excited about having something this cool come along for your R50, Dan?

What about the body lift don't you like? Homemade fenderwell guards will cover those gaps and the bumpers relocate easily enough. The HB trucks show the nearly the same amount of frame in stock shape, if you take a look.

I'mna put mine under the fenderwell at the front near the body mount or so. Just so it doesn't drain oil all over everything inside the fenderwells...

$35 from Summit and a few hours tops. The kit comes with instructions.

I'd like to know how they listened to it with a manifold tick and diagnosed the t-belt as being bad. That takes some semi-omnipotence if you ask me. You need a 2-3' breaker bar and 27mm socket for the crank bolt(IIRC), sockets, ratchets, wrenches(ratchet wrenches are a godsend), and lots of patience.

If one were stuck and the other were not it may cause problems or the hubs themselves may be making noise.

Same thing but a dual kit, yup. I just didn't want to have to change 2 filters on mine.

Just so you know, the suspension lift kits ALL allow for adjustability from 2"-3" of lift. You can crank the t-bars up more as time goes by if you want more lift. It's not a set amount with different kits for 2" and 3". Oh, and you have to do the exact same amount of work to install a 3" or 2" body lift as well. THe only difference is that the 2" lift shows less body/frame gap through the wheelwells and the t-case shifter is easier to use.

Probably not.

The exhaust Mark built for that Honda is worth more than the rest of the car. Damn.

Anything that used to be connected to the rear axle should probably be put back where it came from. I can't tell you without pics or being there. Cut out the rust, grind/wire wheel it down and weld in new so it closely resembles the old setup as best you can.

Just for reference purposes, the correct t-bar length for the US models is 1230mm(48.43"), with a stock diameter of 26mm. The truck bars are 1205mm(47.44") with a stock diameter of 26mm.

I wouldn't worry about it that much. Unless you're going from 31's to 35's, that is. It doesn't sound like you're going to need that much "extra just in case" just running on sand, mud or normal trails.