88pathoffroad

Ouch, man. What about regular steel?

Definitely. I did that once. The crank gear was off by one tooth. It stumbled, lost major power at higher RPM's and idled funny until I took the t-belt back off and got it right.

Why only 4.8's? 5.13's would be much better.

They may bolt on, but the exhaust and emissions plug-ins are all different for the R50's compared the the WD21's. Don't R50's have cats attached to the end of the exhaust manifolds? WD21's do not.

Uploading attachments works fine for me. *shrug*

Wow, I don't think I've ever seen a hub rust through like that. Impressive? Synthetic is better than conventional oil. It lasts longer, lubricates better and doesn't break down as quickly as conventional oil. There's nothing special you need to do to run synthetic, just change the oil and use the good stuff. Oh, and don't use Fram oil filters, there's a reason they only cost $3......Nissan OEM, Wix or NAPA oil filters are best.

It could be quite a few things. The only way to find out is to start taking things off or apart to find out what's doing it. Tried cleaning off your MAF sensor lately? Sometimes a dirty MAF will give you poor throttle response, etc. Fuel pressure after the pressure regulator should be 36.3 psi at idle, the pump alone puts out 45-50 psi at all times IIRC, which is then reduced by the pressure regulator.

It should NOT be loose. It should be taut through the whole belt path.

Yah, with dry ice on top of the intake. *snic* I want dyno sheets! Until then I call shens.

lol

Check your brake fluid. That's not just an e-brake light, it is the brake warning light.

I really doubt it'd make any difference anyway. Gimmicks, all of 'em!

redfinder, does yours have a sticker too? Cause the fronts will both spin if they have equal traction WITHOUT a LSD. Before I got my locker, one time I got sideways on a freeway offramp by power-braking it. Amazed me, but I guess they just both had equal traction. Next time go to the junkyard, I'm eyeballing front diffs. Wouldn't that be a kick in the ass, finding one?

A link or pic would help.

$45 for two little brackets to drop the radiator? Ow. I'd rather leave it as it sits and just trim the fan shroud. $71 for some rubber and screws for body lift liners? Damn. I bought some $7 mud flaps at the auto parts store and cut them to fit. You don't HAVE to get torsion bars, either. Stock ones do great until they sag, then you can simply reindex them and they're good again. I'd examine the panhard rod bushings to see if they really NEED replacing, that's another $41 you don't really have to spend if they're good already. It won't make much difference in handling on that part, if any. I hope you don't have problems with the AC folks like a lot of other people have...some get a box with half the parts in it and no note or explanation, then wait weeks for the rest, etc.

If it wasn't frying before, it won't now. O2 sensors will take a lot of heat. Relocating it might cause it to read wrong and then the engine would run poorly.

Need more info on the noise thing. Does it do it stopped, when turning, over bumps, at highway speed?

There's a "power transistor" on the coil (essentially a high-speed electronic switch) that the ECU usess to fire the coil. The ECU's circuitry can only handle so much juice, so they used the power transistor to recieve low-voltage (or low-amperage) signals and thereby trigger the coil. You can test that if you're comfy with a voltmeter set to the resistance/ohm setting. I've got to get Acrobat running on my puter again so I can post the info on how to test it, it should be in the EF/EC section of the 94 Pathy FSM if you have a copy. You can get a free copy at phatG20.net if you don't already have one. The info for the power transistor should be good from 90-95, I don't remember what year yours is.

If it's an exhaust tick all you'll need is to retighten your manifold bolts and/or collector flanges. Depends on if it's just loose somewhere or if a few studs broke. If it's lifters, a nice synthetic 5-30 would help, thicker oil would probably make a ticking lifter worse due to the viscosity.

On another note, try removing your blower fan and taking all the leaves, pine needles and feathers out of it.

I don't think they make any for the R51's. Correct me if I'm wrong.

31's are rough on stock steering. I'd stick with smaller tires unless you really push the limit on rocky trails or like going into deep mud. 33's really kill your power and mileage. I'd say a BL is good enough for a DD. The Ford coils tend to be fairly stiff and they're not long enough to stay in the sockets with the swaybar disconnected. I about had mine fall out on the trail several times till I switched to JGC springs.

I paid $115 for mine a long time ago at a local shop. Shop around...

Well, to begin with they're all metric. Swap bolts from somewhere else to figure out which size they are and go to Home Depot or a hardware store and buy some bolts. You can buy a cheap bolt sizing template at most hardware stores to find out thread pitch, diameter etc. they are.

Log-type or header-type manifold? Which turbo flange would you be using? There are a lot of different flanges out there for turbo inlets, aren't there? I wouldn't want to get one and be limited to only one type if the turbo's going to be really expensive. A good compromise might be to figure out which turbo is commonly available and works well with the engine displacement we have, then make a choice.