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88pathoffroad

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Everything posted by 88pathoffroad

  1. Punch it upwards, bro. Get under your carpet inside and pull it out that way. You don't need to drill anything.
  2. You know those construction cone type deals that are just tall orange plastic tubes sticking out of a rubber mat base? Try and find an old rubber base for one of those, that's usually 1" thick stuff. Then use a coffee can to outline a circle, cut it out carefully with a utility knife, and go from there. The spacer should go on top if you're just using one.
  3. I swear, R50's need 4" lifts. Giving it 2" just doesn't do ya justice. Looks good, though.
  4. If the head's broken off the last bolt, why don't you pull it out from the top and just put the new one in? Any other questions? The power steering hose can be regular fuel line. Think about it...if you take the power steering cap off while it's running it doesn't spray everywhere. That's just your reservoir. The high-pressure hoses are the big ones bolted to the steering gearbox.
  5. You just contradicted yourself. Read what you just typed again. Fuel injection is fuel injection. Hellooooo, McFly! *knocknocknock* Don't buy a Bulldog remote starter. They are CRAP. Mine locked up and kept cranking the starter while the engine was running after about 6 months of use. I had to rip the ignition wiring off the battery by hand to get it to stop.
  6. The chrome wheels are 15x6 and the aluminum Lego wheels are 15x7.
  7. What octane rating is the fuel you buy there? Just wondering.
  8. I got mine for $50 from the local junkyard. I've seen others sell for as much as $100, but it weighs too much to ship cheaply, as you might have guessed.
  9. I cut the bushings AND the sleeves down so they fit MUCH closer than they did when I got them. I also grooved and drilled the bushings for grease channels and drilled and tapped the grease fitting holes. That's why they work a little bit better than when you had them, MM.
  10. Sorry. Buy a stock replacement manifold. There are no headers in the US available for the 96-up Pathfinder.
  11. He used an adapter to bolt the Holden tranny to the Nissan t-case. Stock drivelines, new motor and transmission.
  12. What problem? We're just basically saying, if it's all taken apart and you're doing 3/4 of the work already, go the extra 25% and make it all new while you can so you don't have to do it all over 10k down the road.
  13. Who bought it, Matt? Hopefully someone that'll appreciate what you put into it...you did some really nice work on the rollbar and all.
  14. One necessary tool..... NEEDLE NOSE VISE GRIPS.
  15. If you're driving in snow, lower the air pressure in your tires. Driving on snow with full pressure makes the tires slip very easily. Lowering them to 26 or less will give you a LOT more traction. Just remember they're low if you get on the freeway and it's been cleared.
  16. Lube that sucker up with some lock lube or silicone oil. I bet it starts working again just fine.
  17. There are none AFAIK. OBDII engine systems need a scanner to retrieve error codes.
  18. I'll trade mine if the shipping costs don't exceed the new purchase price from ozeparts.com. I got this email from GAS recently...
  19. Good job, Steve. Looks just right. Was that from a front-wheel drive car to begin with? Power steering pump treating you right and all that? Nissan fuel pump work OK for the Holden fuel injection setup?
  20. Yeah, nothing like having a parts/money sponsor for your vehicle so you can do anything you want to it, eh? At least they review all the installed parts decently.
  21. That's your shifter safety switch. It should only let you shift out of Park with your foot on the brake. From Neutral to either Drive or Reverse is open, though. That's just to keep people from bumping the shifter into neutral and having the vehicle roll away accidentally.
  22. Sounds like a switch problem to me. The motor won't reverse on it's own for no reason. Try taking apart your switches and make sure there's not a french fry in there or something.
  23. I've also seen more than one 87 with a tire carrier. I think your mechanic was just daunted by the spotwelded sheetmetal and told you it had "a bar across it" cause the body was in the way. They only have the one design for the tire carrier and they would really have to find a good reason to change the body shaping internally after the first year to warrant the re-tooling and die cost for the sheetmetal stamps, etc...
  24. Oil pump, bottom end, new engine....
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