88pathoffroad

Here's mine again after the trimming.

Hahha, I've been to that bar. Welcome back!

It must be leaking after the MAF sensor. Take OFF the intake tubing and check all of it for cracks or holes. Make sure everything's in it's proper hole and plugged in tight.

I'll trade. Want something I can make? ...I've been needing to make some idler arm braces for a while...

Techno in general, or whatever I happen to be listening to at the time. Lately I've been listening to ReHab's new album "Graffiti The World" (message me if you want a copy, heh). I'm not picky. Usually I keep it turned down or off when I'm wheeling, cause the CB feedbacks into the stereo speakers and kills your ears when I key up.

Did your LT kit include new axles? Cause the Nissan CV's are pretty short. I've maxed mine out several times with just a UCA lift and stock t-bars.

True. I'll be fixing my Impulse soon here so I can drive that everywhere...even if it DOES have a stripped out plug hole with a Helicoil in it, half an interior, no stereo and no heater. You can't argue with 25-30 MPG versus 12-15 MPG...heh

I vote for my Pathy and Jim's together, if any are going to be on there at all. I like derogate's ideas! Good stuff, man! Pezzy, how 'bout you? You guys want some different pics? What size minimum?

Bernard! Quit whoring in here! *grumble* Yes Sir !! *Snaps off a crisp saulte* B

Yeah, it's definitely under $1000. Probably more like $500-$750, depending.

This one is awful close. That's with reindexed stock t-bars and Superlift UCA's. The ride's not that much stiffer, even with RS5000 shocks. At least, it doesn't bother me. If it bothers people that much, they're probably better off not lifting it anyway. Personally, I like the way mine rides. It's kinda wallowy and loose, but able to roll over hills three feet tall without much problem. I might go stiffer with an SAS, but the added height would be worth it. Also, you could run your tires a little lower if you wanted it less stiff...

2WD's also don't have front axles or a diff in the way. It's way easier to extend control arms with less drivetrain in the way. You're right, placement of the torsion bars doesn't matter, but it doesn't help on ours. You neglect to mention that the LT Pathfinder you found is 2WD as well...man, this is some nice fabrication. I bet that cost a pretty penny. By the way, the original images were almost 1 MB each and they were actually bitmaps, not JPG's. I fixed it.

Yep, very true. My current tires will dig themselves in in no time if I hit the gas from a stop. A/T's work better on sand AFAIK.

Sure. I'm actually going to use a relayed Ford starter solenoid to run the high speed wire for my fan with 8 or 10 gauge wire, cause that thing pops 30 amp fuses after about 3 minutes of run-time and the old 12 gauge wiring damn near melted into the fan shroud last time I messed with it. D'oh.

If you have a Dremel tool, cut a slot in the screw head and use a flat screwdriver to remove it. Otherwise, I dunno.

It doesn't matter if the vehicle's slightly lifted or not, nothing gets in the way of the exhaust unless you have the Trailmaster 4" lift kit. That's the only disclaimer, because the front driveshaft has to clear the pipes. If you don't have the TM 4" lift, you shouldn't have a single problem.

That's not a bad idea. I've been thinking about doing the same thing, but unfortunately a lot of people's first response is "Damn spammers" and they throw it away without looking at it. But it's worth a try. Especially to generate more Pathfinder owners in your hometown to coordinate with on trips and/or working on the vehicles. How's this, Pezzy? We can modify or add to it. The Nissan Pathfinder Off-Road Association would like to invite the owner or driver of this vehicle to check out our website and participate in our free forums online. We have many, MANY available articles regarding repairs, replacements, and maintenance of both stock and modified Pathfinders. Members of NPORA come from around the world. We're all a happy family, even if just over the internet. Come check us out! ...if not to join, then at least to read up on particulars for your vehicle. We're always open and we're always willing to help! Thank you for your time, and we hope to see you soon on the NPORA forums! -NPORA Admin and Moderators Main website: http://www.nissanpathfinders.com Forums: http://npora.ipbhost.com

PIAA, LightForce, Hella, KC, and Pro Comp all make great lights. I've run 700+ watts of lighting at once with my Quest alternator and it's still working great. 2 x 130W PIAA fogs 2 x 100W PIAA drivings 3 x 55W cheap-ass HF lights underneath 2 x 55W PIAA roof lights All the PIAA lights I've ever owned have worked flawlessly and brightly. I hear lots of good things about the LightForce lights, too. They have changeable unbreakable colored lenses, come with clear rock guards and are focusable from flood to spot. Now there's a bonus for you, Martin!

Nonono, if you came here telepathically, raise MY hand!

Total Chaos only makes long-travel kits for 2WD HB's. The demand just isn't there... And Toyotas have the torsion bars attached to the UCA's, not the LCA's like Pathfinders. Way different setup.

You don't need "stronger 4WD", you just need to adjust a few things. The first thing you have to do is reduce tire pressure. Make sure your tires are aired down enough to work for you. That's the main problem with driving on sand. How low do you go? The tires should sag a bit on the sidewalls in sand, but not look flat. Personally, mine run great at about 9 psi or less (but they're bias-ply tires with a 30 psi max inflation pressure and 4-ply sidewalls). Stock tires should be set at about 12 or so. You can go lower if you need to. I've gone down to 6-8 psi on BFG's before and they worked great. Try different pressures and see what works best for you. Different shocks also help. Stock saggy-ass shocks don't help in the sand, because the tires tend to dig, then pull up and it makes the vehicle bounce and not move forward enough. Stiffer offroad shocks help keep the tires planted and spinning when you need them to. A locker would definitely help.

To keep the engine from turning, you can either remove the starter and jam a screwdriver into the flywheel to prevent it from turning, or try the old "stuff a long thin piece of rag into the #1 spark plug hole until the motor doesn't turn over anymore, then remove it" trick...

With the swaybars off and 6" of lift, the body roll is noticeably worse. You gotta drive more carefully and take corners and curves a lot slower than you used to.

Yeah, ditto. I was searching the web for alternate sources of info.

Have someone else turn the wheel back and forth rapidly for you while you look at the steering components. That way you can see what moves that isn't supposed to. Your tension rod bushings in good shape? That'd give you some problems as well...