88pathoffroad

Lock-Right lockers are made by Powertrax, a Richmond Gear-owned company. It's US-based, as far as I know. I have no idea where to find a Lokka brand locker besides Oz.

Yeah, I pretty much agree after thinking about it and looking through what we've got. I should probably revise the forum descriptions, though. That might help a bit if people actually bothered to read them...

I Priority Mail-ed my cousin a set of Eclipse injectors and clips TWO TUESDAYS AGO and he finally got 'em today. Two weeks and one day. ARGH. Well, that was $3.85 well spent.

...and $765.70 here. http://www.rocky-road.com/airlocker.html Shoot, most of these on this page are only $705, but they're for Dana axles...$763 otherwise. http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/ind.../470_496_22_416 $799.95 here. http://shop.store.yahoo.com/collinsbros/arblocandkit.html Hope that helps.

Here you go. $789.99 USD. Nissan lockers, even. http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/products/pr...vetrain&man=ARB

I've always wanted to swap out the LED's in my third brake light. The LED's inside the stock third brake light are weak and don't match the regular brake lights. I decided to do something about it finally. I took mine off, unscrewed the cover and all, then heated it up in the oven at 200 degrees F. With the help of a razor knife and small flat screwdriver, I was able to separate the lens from the circuit board mounts with the LED's on them. I transplanted some junkyard LED strips from a Montana minivan third brake light and a Chevy Blazer third brake light. The Montana and Blazer lights just have a single strip, whereas the Nissan light has two rows that are narrower...that's why I had to strip two junkyard lights for enough LED's to make one third brake light. My third brake light is now four times brighter than it was, and it matches the regular brake lights perfectly. Have some pics. These are the stock Nissan LED strips. 34 LED's per row, all substandard 1992 issue. Bleh. My digicam doesn't even change f-stop for them. Here are the new LED strips I put together. Note that the camera darkened the rest of the picture noticeably to compensate for the brightness of the LED's. ...and the final product, installed on the Pathy: There are now 32 LED's in the top row and 34 in the bottom row. I had to do it that way because that's how they paired the resistors and LED's in the other LED strips, and I had to cut the strips down to fit. I've never loved my hot glue gun and soldering iron more...

Oh, I meant to say...there's no safety shut-off set-up with the ECU. It'll overheat until it melts the pistons to the cylinder walls. Ask Pathfinder Phil about that sometime.

It's true. *shrug*

Oh, CRAP. That sucks, man. It sheared the key in the crank.

*wins the lawsuit due to a hung jury* Oh yeah?!? *lets the air out of one of Slick's tires on the way out of the courthouse parking lot*

No more double posts, please...

Check the turn signal flasher. It may have died on you. It's a cylindrical thing under your dash...

'Snot something I can fix offhand. I've tried quite a few things, actually. I don't have access to the hosting server's mail info, so I can't do it. Ask Jim, maybe.

If it doesn't overheat or cause any more problems, I'd leave it be. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

The exhaust is the same on 2WD and 4WD Pathfinders. End of line.

Auto or manual? Autos tend to get real hot on high-RPM hillclimbs, so it may just have been overheating a bit. On a manual, that's not good.

Yup. Just crank 'er in till she's nice and snug. Overtightening will mean you might not be able to get it out next time.

New ones cost like $4 at any auto parts store. Have you even looked?

True. Lemme think about how it should be set up, and we'll see. Good idea.

Rami has 31 x 10.50 BFG M/T's. Like it says at the very top. You gotta start reading the text as well as looking at the pretty pictures, people...

I think the newer transmissions are the ones with the revised fill hole location. IE, they fixed the design finally, that's all.

i like that idea.. just wonder if there would be any adverse effects too.. i do that manually sometimes if i am in bfe.. I wouldn't unless you want to run 110W x 2 through the headlight switch by itself. I can imagine a fried switch at the very least would be the end result...

The rear crossmember should be fine as it is. Mine has the same thing, look at the pics I took on the last page.

Yup. Real simple stuff. Two things to pull off and it all comes apart. You even get to play with slimy-ass grease as a bonus!

Allright, here's a teaser. I'm still working on the write-up. Hafta wait till I get home to finish it.