88pathoffroad

Oh, and yes, I can make people some braces. Who wants one? I was already about to make three or four of them for a couple of people. I'm just doing these in black with a top coat of clear lacquer, and they will be test-fitted on my Pathy before being sent out. I can see about shipping to Canada. Do they have customs taxes on birthday presents in small packages that are also a functional piece of art? Or gifts from friends? Or Hurricane Katrina care packages?

Here's a pic of the one I made for myself. Haven't bent any idler arms yet with it on. The main problem you're going to have when offroading your Pathy is bending tie rods and having the centerlink joints wallow out on you. The idler arm brace doesn't necessarily NEED to be huge and overbuilt, all it does is keep the idler pivot shaft from bending. That said, I believe the Calmini brace is the strongest setup I've seen yet, but they'll all do the same job equally well under the same conditions, IMHO.

We've got a ton of 76 Semi-Synthetic 5W-30 and 10W-30 at the Knecht's I work at, and it's only $1.29 a quart. That's really cheap for semi-synth, I'm using it and it works fine.

Oil is oil, unless it's semi-synthetic or full synthetic. I've never seen any kind of problem created, solved or temporarily encountered while using any kind of regular oil, provided the thickness used in the engine is correct.

You don't have factory amps. They started putting those in in 90 or so.

Holy crap, was I buzzed last night. I was trying to multiply rather than add. My bad.

The centerlink is the long bar in the middle that the tie rods and the pitman and idler arms bolt to.

Stock size is a 10x110x1.25 thread pitch. I bet the length on the earlier Pathy bolts are the same, so that'd make it a 10x430x1.25 for an approximate 3" gain, unless my math is wrong. Of course, math never was my strong suit. Hmm, what do you get if you cube the length to try and get a answer with a 3x larger sum than the original length? Is that totally off or what? *puts down the beer and puts out the joint*

That's an awesome idea, man. Hook a brotha up! I'd love to be rid of the 44 pound skidplate under my Pathy. Plus I think the white would look awesome as a near-stock sized front skidplate.

Eclipse stuff is very very nice and well-thought-out. Personally, I like classic Alpine HU's and processors, and Audiobahn for subs and amps. I get enough definition out of my tube to please me. It's got a 4" Aeroport on the back end and the whole thing's easily removeable if I need the room. When I get a chance, I want to build a combo box for a DVC Phoenix Gold 12" sub a buddy gave me as well as the Audiobahn 15. That'll be a good combo, a long-throw 12 and a mid-throw 15 both operating in sync. A nice compact rectangle-ported MDF(or whatever the dense stuff is) box with a 12 and a 15. And separate Class D digital monoblock amps with separate 1uf caps and a Yellow-Top Optima and a 12-disc CD changer and, um.... Yeah, right after I win the lottery.

Yeah, like he said. Mark the t-bar and anchor so you can tell where it used to be.

Yeah...the mass email function on my board doesn't work. I can probably get one out for this board, though. What should I have it say?

My bass tube works rather well, if you ask me. 138.7 db's on the dash...same sub AND amp as I originally bought three or four years ago. 6 MB Quicktime movie. http://temp.damagedreality.com/temp2/bass.mov

It fixes the centerlink and tie rod problems, basically. CV axles are another story.

You still running the same oil and filter?

Glenn: It'd still be far better than having no protection at all, don't you think? In reality, hard undercarriage hits are an uncommon problem if the driver can avoid reasonably any obstacles like that. Nice work, B! That looks great. Can I have one? ...but in white?

Rear speakers on mine are in the sides by the back seats. Another Nissan rear speaker option was to use some plastic enclosures in the very rear by the rear wheelwells to house speakers. Personally, I never have really liked the rear speakers so close to me. I'm planning on adding a pair of 3" midrange tweeters to the very rearmost vertical panels for more surround sound effect.

Change the filter first, it's only about $3-5. Go with a NAPA Gold or Silver series filter. Make sure the pressure hose line for the oil gauge isn't kinked, leaking or overly long, as an excessive length of hose can cause a drop in percieved pressure readings.

Will the Mexi-mods ever cease?

Special Offer From L&P Performance for AUS members: this is a combo NPORA/WD21Forums special offer. Lee from L&P Performance (http://www.lpperformance.com) has agreed to an offer I made him. I offered to provide centerlink cores to him as a substitute for a few Australian or New Zealander people who would really like to try out the L&P Performance centerlink(draglink). To see what I'm referring to, look here: http://www.lpperformance.com/Steering.htm This eliminates the need for a person residing in those countries to have to both find a core centerlink and then have to pay to have it shipped to the continental US in order to get one in return. Lee and I are eating the cost of interstate shipping between he and I, as well as the cost of the core centerlinks. Don't worry about it. I'd accept donations to cover the $50+ cost, but I'm not asking for it. This makes the price of an L&P centerlink $250 USD plus cost of shipping. That's down from $250 for the centerlink, the cost of shipping, $100 for the core, and another $20-$50 or so to find another suitable CL and ship it on over. ($400+ USD) Any takers? Please let me know by email, PM or by posting in this thread. There's no time limit on this one per se, but I only have a limited number of centerlinks to provide for interested parties. I may be able to provide more on occasion if the junkyard gets more Nissans of the right years in as time goes on. On another note, I need a few AUS addresses to estimate shipping costs on. You can give me a fake street name or whatever, but I need some valid area codes and/or city names. Thanks. Or should I say, cheers?

Mine seems to have OK close-range reception and transmission (up to about 5 miles or so), but if I get into hills it goes down to about half a mile tops. I've got a bit of a cut in the antenna cable, so I need to replace that pretty soon and I don't think that adds to it's TX/RX power... Uniden Pro 520XL with a Firestik II 4' fiberglass whip antenna. I snipped a couple of resistors inside to get about 5 watts out of it instead of 3-4. Of course, the extra power just goes into overmodulation so the high volume bits get nasty fuzzy, but hey. It still works.

Maybe you ran over a piece of wood or a stick or piece of steel that hit the underside of your body and made the noise. I've done that quite a few times, even got a piece of 1/2" rebar (about twelve feet long) wrapped around the driveshaft and into the underbody once on accident. Do you have any idea how hard it is to un-bend rebar under a muddy truck?

Apparently you can also buy remanufactured Lego wheels from them too, but at $222 each, I'll pass.

Usually you just have to replace the brushes. You have to tear apart the starter, solder the new brushes onto the base plate and then reassemble it. It's actually pretty easy if you can get the old base plate clean enough to make the solder stick. The innards are guaranteed to be full of nasty stuff. Here, have a pic.

Point is, I never gave anyone permission to use my pictures ion any auctions or anything BUT the website. They're using a thumbnail of my Pathy for the Ebay listing, as well as the main picture and several more times on the auction page, with no credit given. I'm asking them to advertise for my WD21 Forums as well.