88pathoffroad

3/8" is the next nearest SAE bolt size, about 9.5mm. Just so you know. A SAE tap and bolt are prolly easier to find is all.

Actually, the Nissan IFS is fairly well engineered for on-road and stock use. It's when you start lifting and messing with it that it starts to show weak points. Every vehicle has them in one way or another. Keep it clean and well-maintained and it will work fine. None of your problems are new or even surprising to me. The AC arms all have that side-to-side spacing problem. You have to cut/grind the stock bushing sleeves down along with the bushings to get them to fit right. Otherwise, it's possible for them to slide back and forth on the bushings at will under load. The gap you're seeing at the end of the spindle is normal, the sleeve is still inside the bushing and it won't move under load. The spindle ends are tapered, is all. Old Nissan compression rods/strut rods typically do that. I've seen it over and over and over on lots of forums. Bottom line: if you have slop in the suspension, clean it all off and start eyeballing things. The problems are rarely invisible.

Take an angle grinder to the edge of the strut and clearance it instead of using more wheel spacers.

Under EC, Engine Fuel and Emission Control system section. Page 25. Base timing is 15 degrees BTDC. ALL timing is controlled by the ECU at idle and under load or at high revs. They list a complicated-ass procedure for checking timing/fuel/emissions that includes reading CO2 levels, etc.

I'll look today to see if there are any I-6 JGC's and measure 'em up.

I believe they're the same. The only change they made to the manual tranny was the case design revision for relocating the fill hole higher in 96.

See pics above. Same thing, same location. One wire, that's it. Re-read the thread if you missed the particulars...

Hey! See, I learn something new every day. Hehehe. Sorry 'bout that. I never saw one, so I didn't think it was applicable. Thanks!

If it's private property, what do you expect?

Those figures are for rear LSD's on trucks only. The 300ZX LSD was rated at 36-87 ft-lbs, from what I get from the 88 300ZX FSM. I might be wrong about the torque on the Z LSD, but it's not the same at all as the H233B rear LSD.

My brother bought a '83 RX-7 for $200 once, with NO clutch left...then found a $50 bill under the seat! You could let off the clutch, rev it, and wait for it to move. It was GONE. Barely moved. We replaced that bad boy in a downhill-slanted driveway with a few friends, one of whom decided he was gonna be a bad-ass and stuff the tranny back onto the engine by himself under the car...ended up on the recieving end of a batch of old gear oil from the tailshaft right in the face! In other words, if it slips, it's gone the way of the Dodo and it needs attention before it disappears completely.

Damn, I was hoping nobody would comment on the booger welds. They go all the way around, though! Oh, and that's a UCA bushing sleeve I used to extend the shifter. Slightly larger than the shifter shaft, but I filled the holes with steel.

Mine is silent. What would you lube on a roof rack? *snic*

Every company gets a few defective parts now and then. I wouldn't look at it as a sign that Calmini sells crappy parts. I've actually got a Rancho RS9000 in my garage that's locked up and won't move, even under the weight of the Pathy. I jacked it up and stuck the locked shock under my skidplate, the Pathy just balanced on it. o.o We ARE talking about shock absorbers as opposed to lift kits here, aren't we? Giancarlo93 never said what he wanted info on.

Hm, I'm not sure you can remove the ECU from timing changes without it being a dog on the road. At idle, it should run at base timing by itself. You have a FSM, is it not with you right now? Let me know and I can drop you a link for the '94 FSM if that'd help.

"Seized", you mean?

The Calmini front LSD is the same thing as the 300ZX LSD, but new. Straight out of the box from Nissan. What do you mean, "stuck with the solid axle"? They never had one for the Pathfinder in any country. Go ahead, buy a jeep. You'll see why we all drive Pathfinders instead.

There is no switch on the tire carrier that will make a light on the dash come on, just so you know. It's the hatch itself, not the carrier.

You can get NISMO mounts that I think are polyurethane, lots stronger. Other than that you'd have to experiment and make your own stuff, I guess.

Are you really going to save money after spending so much to have it installed? CNG/LP is almost as expensive as gasoline here, FWIW.

If you have a stock alarm, it is under the driver's seat. If there's nothing under your seat, it may very well have been removed by a previous owner. I wouldn't buy remotes quite yet if I were you...

Look in the General Forums area, there's a pinned topic all about it. C'mon people, search a little first.

Go look in the How-To forum at the steering stabilizer install thread.

1. There is no front drop-in auto locker. Never was. The only rear locker you can get is from Powertrax/Richmond Gear. 2. With stock-size tires, you can offroad quite a bit on stock components before needing to replace anything. Steering components are the first to go, then front axles when the CV boots eventually wear out, the stock shocks will leak or fail, and the automatic locking hubs seem to have a tendency to lock up and/or not work as well after a lot of miles. You'll probably experience torsion bar sag as well, but reindexing the bars is always an option.

Damn, can't find it...but here's a pic from the AC website.