88pathoffroad

Check the coil's power transistor. Mine did exactly that when the PT died on me.

I was just following the Chilton's instructions that said "do not pry these out, punch them out from the bottom with a special tool", heh.

Gotta build me a land anchor so I can winch out easier in more places...

Exactly. No go unless you severely Sawzall the fenders and then expect your steering to fail immediately thereafter... Here's the difference between a 31x10.50 and a 33x10.50.

It's entirely up to you what you buy. There's no one tire that's better than any of the rest. A/T tires are a good choice if you're not going to see much mud or snow, M/T tires are better for more traction, but are usually louder on the road.

They're expensive and it takes a special tool to remove them from the TBI. I had to make a tool to get mine out. Honestly, if injectors are malfunctioning it'll usually throw an error code and run funny. I doubt that's your problem. When I took apart my little bro's 85 Blazer engine, the exhaust valves were all multicolored...I wouldn't worry about it unless they have some real thick nasty deposits on them.

Kendall oil is purple.

Pulling the heads and replacing a few valves is actually pretty cheap if you can do it yourself and it doesn't need any extra work besides that. The fact that it was running at idle and not at highway speed is a saving grace. Somewhat. That's what I'd do, at least. And port the heads....and the intake...and look at reground or new cams...etc

A Ford PH1A or #1 filter relocation kit is what you need. Same exact thread pitch and gasket size as the Nissan filter, believe it or not. A #3600 Chevy/GMC filter also fits.

It runs fine without the EGR working, just won't pass emissions I bet. Too bad we don't have emissions here.

Apparently they forgot that part, or it never went into production. There was nothing there on any of the Pathys I've taken apart, including junkyard ones.

Oh SH1TE. I'm sorry.

Wierd. Mine had steel lines with fittings on the ends that screw into the radiator.

*snort*

Check all your fuel line connections, one is leaking. Throttle cables won't give you a gas smell with the engine running...it's sucking air in after all, not letting it out. Unless you count the exhaust, but I doubt you'd smell raw gas from the tailpipe without it running really badly.

You can buy the transistor separately. Some places call it an ignition module. Mine was $105.

Nylon-reinforced fuel line works fine. Just don't use regular rubber nonreinforced hose. Oh, and you'll have to cut off the ends of the steel lines going into your radiator's internal cooler so the hose will slip onto the ends.

Apparently the coil, power transistor and cam position sensor are all inside the distributor. Ouch. I wonder if they're replaceable separately.

The Thorleys fit the auto Pathy fine, from what we've been hearing. No mods needed.

You won't pass any visual inspection if the EGR isn't hooked up, for one. The "emissions thing" is the carbon canister, which recycles fuel vapor from the tank back into the intake. You can compression test it... If any cylinder reads too low or differs from an adjacent cylinder more than 5-10 psi or so, it may have a bad head gasket or ring problem. Try replacing the PCV valve. If it quits working it'll allow all the crankcase pressure to shoot into the intake PAST the MAF, which makes it run funny. It causes the O2 sensor to read lean, but the MAF isn't seeing that much airflow so the ECU won't know which way to go on fueling. Also, I bet if you remove the TBI and the EGR valve, the valve passage will be completely plugged up anyway. Here's what mine looked like after about 140k miles...the passage is on the top of the pic, see the black crust crap where there should be an open hole? I had to dig that stuff out with picks and carb cleaner for a half hour before it was clean. Bottom line is, you have to MAKE SURE EVERYTHING WORKS before trying to smog it, cause one thing will screw up another thing and cause a cascading crap-effect on emissions.

Nope, they didn't.

There isn't one. You have to line up TDC and make the mark yourself before taking off the timing belt. I know the FSM and Chilton's all say there should be a mark, but I have yet to see one.

I got my backup bulbs at GI Joe's, Stuart's Auto Parts also has them here in Salem. Pickleman, I've done it before and I know it works. You can ALSO do the resistor trick to make a thermal flasher work, but then you gotta splice and cut wiring, or try and stuff the ends of the resistor across the terminals. With an electronic flasher ($12 at Knecht's Auto Parts) it just plugs in and works on the spot.

Your choices are Thorleys or Pacesetters. Thorleys cost more but are nicer, the Pacesetters are cheaper but the design and quality is a bit lacking. Both are available with ceramic coating, but that adds another $100 or so to the price. Lee from L&P Performance runs the Pacesetters and loves them, though. He says to scrap the crossover pipe (y pipe) that comes with 'em and get a new one made that fits better. Thorleys are available from Summit racing, Rocky-Road Outfitters, and several other places. You can get Pacesetters on Ebay all day long, just make sure you bid on the V6 ones and not a 4-cyl header.

I apologize for being so snappy. I've been having a rare time at home lately and my back hurts.