88pathoffroad

AFAIK, Euro spec light housings are not legal to use in the US. Not that anyone checks... The light pattern is simply different. US-spec lights cut off above a certain point to reduce glare for oncoming drivers. Euro-spec lights cut the light off at an angle and don't reduce glare as much, that's all. There is a possibility that you could be pulled over for having too-bright lights that way, I would think. HID's are expensive and nice, but they're only low beams, you can't switch from low to high with a single HID bulb. No idea on halo lights, are those the ones with a illuminated ring inside like on BMW's? They call those "angel eyes" I do believe. That all said, the coated bulbs "55W=110W" in "Plasma Purple" or whatever color you pick are NOT brighter than regular halogens, they are simply a different color. Same with Silverstars, they just cut out the yellows and reds and only allow the white and bluish-white light colors to shine through the bulb's coating. Therefore, they are DIMMER than regular bulbs because they eliminate certain wavelengths of light. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bu...superwhite.html

That was TWO jacks, and I hadn't set up the jackstand yet. I do what I can. Believe it or not, that gravel is fairly firm stuff. I use a 1/4" steel plate to set my jackstands on.

It's HEAVY, for one...

Allright, allright allright...I didn't do ALL the work. I had help.

Funny, it took me like 30 minutes to take mine out the first time.

Yeah, started at 1:30 done by 5, with beer breaks and all including burning the bushings out of an old UCA for the spindle. Nice burnt rubber smell filling up the block...

Ok, it's fixed. I had to replace the passenger's side spindle, upper balljoint, the CV on that side and an outer tie rod end. The old spindle was bent one tenth of an inch. Sheesh. The BJ was so loose I could spin it in it's socket by finger. The tie rod was slopped out the same way. The CV had a busted boot full of holes and also full of mud, so I swapped that out while I was in there. Fun times. Steers straight as an arrow now! Woohoo!

Yeah, you can get universal ones and trim them to fit. Autometer makes some.

Yep, me too. Still runs fine.

In stock form, yes. If you've cut it off, no.

That's not a bad idea. Hmm.

Automotive cleaning agents? Name one for us, please...besides Tire Shine. Not even close to the same thing.

Count the coils by starting at one end, circling around until you reach the point where the coil makes a complete circle, then count up from there. It sounds like you have the right springs to me.

A simpler cocktail would be Rancho RS9000 shocks all the way around with the knob turned up to 9...

*snort* Have you never washed dishes before?

Went out up in the mountains, played around a little bit. Came home with the steering wheel pointing a funny direction. Bent another UCA spindle. I think I'll borrow an oxy/acetylene torch and heat treat the next spindle I put in. Goddamn things, anyway. I'm really getting tired of replacing IFS parts.

All I can tell you is the tech told me 90 degrees, no more, no less. It should not make any noticeable noise when tensioned correctly.

Nice find on the winch price...in Canada at Sam's Club you could get a cheap winch for like $300, I forget the name of them though.

99% of the electrical connectors are watertight. They do that on purpose. Use some Purple Power or Castrol Super Clean on the dirty stuff and it'll all come clean. Simple Green works OK too, but that purple degreaser takes EVERYTHING off. Just be careful to not get any on the paint outside the engine compartment, it'll strip wax off and make it look crappy.

I didn't. Just clean off both surfaces, apply some silicone to each, then let 'em sit for 15 minutes or so to get tacky. Then reassemble but don't torque the bolts, just get them hand-tight. After another hour or so, torque all bolts and fill. Mine hasn't leaked a drop and that's how I did it. About driving on ice: don't. That's about all I can tell you.

Two separate people probably filled it without checking to see if it had already been done. They should have caught that on the safety doublechecks, but the dipstick for a Pathy is hard to read already...probably missed it.

One tooth off will cause a giant difference in power and economy. It will have a hard time picking up speed when you hit the gas, really poor fuel economy(10MPG or so), and a lot of trouble maintaining speed on the freeway or up hills. First time I did my t-belt, I got it one tooth off somehow on the crank. (No timing mark!) See, that doesn't ONLY alter the ignition timing, it also alters the VALVE timing mechanically, because the belt drives both cams at the same time. You can set the timing all you like cause the DS cam drives the distributor. That'll let you use a timing light to set ignition timing, but the problem is that your valve timing is still gonna be off if the belt is one tooth off. There's no way to check that without taking off the timing belt cover, setting it at TDC and physically looking at the marks. If both cams appear advanced or retarded slightly, it's one off on the crank. There's no way to correct that but to take the belt off and do it over. Second time I did my t-belt, I got it too tight. That didn't cause any power loss cause it was timed right, etc...but it makes a whining noise not unlike a supercharger. I took 'er in to the Nissan dealership and asked one of the head techs to listen to it, he said "You need to fix that, if it stays too tight it'll break off the cam gears." The way he told me to check tension on the t-belt is by grabbing the belt at the middle between cam gears, then give it a twist. If you can just twist it 90 degrees, it's good. Less is too tight, more is too loose. Hope that helps.

Just so you know, that's an aftermarket progressive rate spring for a JGC, not a stock JGC spring in Slick's pic.

Take the trim off yourself and mask off the parts that aren't going to need to be painted...that'll save the paint guy a lot of time and he might give you a break on the price for it. Can't hurt to ask.

In his case, it may just need more gas to get the hub to lock up. Remember, when he parked he was moving forward with the hub locked. When he is trying to leave, the hub has to unlock in reverse, then re-lock in reverse for either one of the front tires to get any power. That's the very reason the auto hubs suck. They unlock when you change direction and you lose 4WD until it relocks.