88pathoffroad

Shoot, B. A 87 versus a 95? No comparison. The engine accounts for +/- 8 HP or so from stock specs, (145 vs. 153) but the mileage and years on the 87 will do that.

This is true, but if it were unplugged and grounded out on the exhaust or something, it'd do that.

Yeah, that requires removal of the pinion nut... It's a bear to remove by yourself.

PB Blaster! Find some. It works. Honest to God.

The fuse for those lights in particular is labeled "Meter", IIRC. I bet your headlight switch is not working right. You can fix that yourself with a Philips screwdriver and about ten minutes. Pull the steering column cover and take a look at the inside where the headlight switch comes in and is screwed down. At the end of the lever in there is a set of contacts(under a cover, I believe). The contacts need to be cleaned or very carefully re-arched so thay work properly again.

Martin, did you run into the UCA bushing fitment problem like a few others have? I had to cut/grind down the sleeves about 1/4" total to get the bushings to fit tighter.

The adjustable shocks run $72 each, last I remember. You CAN install normal shocks, just unplug the old shocks and tape up the ends of the wiring.

I replied to this topic on Nissanforums also...losing reverse is the first sign that your transmission is about to die on you. Reverse takes higher line pressure to engage, therefore when your trans starts to wear out and pressures are lower than they are when new, reverse is the first thing to go. New fluid provides a temporary pressure boost, which basically "fixed" your loss of reverse.

Good job! Nice attention to detail. I like the barbed wire pinstripe!

Um, the ECU.

Yak racks = gooood. Thule racks are good too.

The ticking may just be your exhaust, we can't tell from over here. Check the oil pressure sensor and make sure it's plugged in. It's right beside the oil filter, only thing screwed into the engine block next to it.

The AC system is really quite complicated and requires a lot of disassembly. It's be cheaper and easier to buy a different Pathy with AC in it already, I'd think. I'm not saying it's impossible, but the parts list is very long.

True dat. An idler arm brace and new balljoints/tie rods when they're needed will keep you in business for a while, too. If possible try to find a good junkyard centerlink for a spare.

Yes, but they crack and slip off anyway and still collect dirt. They do help keep the majority out, though.

Do the cheapest part first, of course.

True. The MPFI has about 8 more HP versus the TBI according to the FSM. Heh. I'd have to re-read up on fuel pressure for the pump, I believe the VG30E needs 47 psi while the VG30i needs 36.

Rivet it in from underneath with some silicone sandwiched between/around the edges, then coat it with some primer and rubberized undercoat or bedliner.

Face it, a 93 stereo is 13 years old...things die and need to be replaced.

It will slide off, trust me. Careful you don't lose the spring inside, it's greasy.

Um, a picture would be a good thing. How are we supposed to tell?

You have to cut the sleeves down a bit to get the bushings to fit right. Like, 1/8" each side. That's all.

Hell, that's a good idea. Thanks, B!

An aftermarket air intake should not trigger a check engine light unless something is leaking or connected wrong, although sometimes an over-oiled K&N filter will coat the MAF sensor wires and make it read wrong. The engine can suck a light mist of oil out of the filter and coat the MAF wires lightly. A new air intake will not "burn out" O2 sensors or MAF sensors. O2 sensors slowly accumulate soot and carbon and eventually do not work right anymore, that's all. An O2 sensor works at exhaust temperature, you're not going to get any hotter than that. I'd clean your MAF sensor first. There is a sticky post in the Garage: How-To section on how to do that. Check the wiring plug for the MAF sensor for looseness or poor connections. The air intake AFTER the MAF sensor should be AIRTIGHT. Any leaks after the MAF sensor will give a CEL and make it run funny.

I know where Jim is(Washington, Marysville), I just can't get him to work on the website. He's got personal problems I guess and has lost interest in NPORA. I live in Salem, Oregon and can't just hop on over to his house to say hi. It STILL AMAZES ME that people will send $$$ to someone they do not know and have not talked to. Jim hasn't posted here in over a year. I suggest you mail him and wait for a response or cancel the Paypal payment.