88pathoffroad

This section is for reviews, not questions. Moving to General Forums from Product Reviews.

Yeah, they're right. If the cams don't spin with the crank the valves don't open, therefore no compression. Damn.

I don't believe the VG30i-equipped models have one. My 88 FSM says nothing about one. IIRC, the fuel pressure switch is inside the tank with the sending unit.

I don't think the R200A in the S13's fits. Something to do with axle flanges and the way it's set up. Is it a clutch-type LSD or a VLSD?

I wouldn't think that most people would be able to tear down an auto trans and successfully rebuild it themselves, or more people would be doing it. There are some Ebay transmissions for around $800-900 if you look, but remember to tack on shipping, heh. Oh, and it's a RE4R01A automatic if you have the V6.

B, exhaust studs are 6mm, yes.

unccpathfinder: What's the exact size on the side of that socket, anyway?

Actually, I don't think it matters, they're both grounding switches anyway.

There is no inertia switch. Try the pump relay first, then you can eliminate other things.

The black crap in mine was from the EGR and PCV system. Recirculating hot exhaust gas through the intake is definitely a good way to gunk it up over time.

I'm not entirely sure, but make sure you don't get one from a 4-cyl auto or a 87-88 3-speed auto. Different animals.

There's something wrong with the alternator if both those lights are on...

Nissan changed the body mounts in the rear somewhere between 91 and 92, and none of the body lift kit manufacturers bothered to continue making the kits with the correct bolts for the rear mount points that were changed. The body lifts from AC are simply 87-90 kits with the correct rear bolts added to the kit. They found a manufacturer for the bolts, (they're impossible to find anywhere otherwise) which are all you need to make the kit work on the 91-up WD21's.

Mine lasted one trip as well. After removal, it spun around like a New Year's razzer on a stick. The MOOG one is overpriced and underreinforced.

The forum software is very old and some of it doesn't work. Example: I can't change my personal pic anymore, go figure. It won't let me. Can anyone else?

I use my tow hitch. You *can* use those tie-down points, but they will bend if you pull sideways on them.

Should work that way. I'd have to measure to see if they're different sizes, but I bet they're the same.

CV flanges on 87-89's have 6 bolts in a tri-spaced pattern, with 27 spline outers. 90-95's have 5 bolts in a star pattern and 28 spline outers, that's the difference.

There's a little plastic push-in tab or two that holds that to the fenderwell. Find that and yoink it, or just plain yank on the intake tube till it comes off. Heh. A door trim removal tool works well for those, they're hard to get a hold of.

Pull the dash guages and then turn the key and see if it still pops a fuse. It takes a Philips screwdriver and about 10-15 minutes. At least that way you can narrow it down.

Yeah, Parts doesn't have it enabled. Sorry. Fixed!

It doesn't have 6 injectors, it has 2. From the 88 FSM: Power Transistor testing procedure: 1. Disconnect main wiring harnesses for both the coil and the power transistor. Leave the t-type connector for the coil plugged in. 2. On the power transistor main input power connector, the locking tab should be facing up as you look at it. You should be able to see four tabs inside. They are numbered as follows: TAB ON TOP 1(blue)_______4(black/white) 2(black/pink)__3(white) 3. 1 is the coil's 12VDC+. 2 is the feed from the ECU. 3 is to engine ground. 4 is to the coil's 12VDC-. 4. Turn the ignition on, but do not start the engine. Test for battery voltage on #1. 12VDC+ should exist. 5. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 3. Positive lead goes on 1 or 4, negative on 3. There should be no continuity. 6. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 3 again, but the positive lead goes on 3. Negative goes on 1 or 4. There should be continuity. 7. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 2. Positive lead goes on 1 or 4, negative on 2. There should be no continuity. 8. Test continuity between terminals 1 or 4 and terminal 2 again, but the positive lead goes on 2. Negative goes on 1 or 4. There should be continuity. 9. Test continuity between 3 and engine ground. There should be continuity. If you have no continuity where you should have it, the power transistor should be replaced. I can't find the exact testing procedure for the coil, but there should be continuity between the + and - terminals and NOT between either one of those and the coil wire output, nor the grounded base of the coil. Hope that helps.

I'll leave stereo stuff out because that's a gimmie usually. Converted LED dome light (not a replacement LED bulb, I soldered about 13 8K LED's in there myself) Custom light switches T-case shifter knob CB under dash Battery in the rear in a box Cargo net on the rear hatch

Those things tend to squash into the taillight anyway if you bonk into something solid enough...I've been through three taillights so far and a set of those guards wouldn't have done one bit of good for me.