ahardb0dy

I can say my 87 hardbody with the V6 had the auto hubs

I always thought it was 3.75" as that is what Jim Connor Racing used to recommend in their catalog, see below: Just measured the back spacing on a stock lego wheel and it is 5", I stand corrected

FSM for 94 shows both hubs Nissan FAST shows manual hubs on the KA24 engine models

picked out a color for my xterra rack, I chose machinery grey from Acehardware, painted the parts and they are drying now, put silicone around the rivnuts and teflon tape on all the bolts, will install later.

The JDM engine I bought for my PF was supposed to be low mileage too I think I paid about $600 for it out the door, no idea if it really has low mileage but it runs like it does !!

backspacing refers to the distance of the wheel where the lug holes are to the rear edge of the wheel, if the backspacing is less than what the Nissan should have the wheels will stick out farther and if you are running a big enough tire the tires will hit the fenders when you turn. Stock Nissan pathfinder and hardbody wheels generally have about 3.75" backspacing. So a stock 7" wide wheel with 3.75" back spacing will have 3.75 from the center to the rear edge of the wheel and 3.25 from the center to the front edge, this also keeps the tire "under" the fender.

Today, picked up some washers but hardware store didn't have the bolts I wanted to use, had to re-do one of the rivnuts to a bigger size as the 1/4-20 one came loose and fell in, installed a 5/16" rivnut. I cut the end of the tube in half, the part that I previously cut off the end of the front tube ( the one with the slots for those metal brackets), I put one half on each side of the roof rack tube to use as a guide to make those slots in the tube, was pretty easy to get the shape right using 2 different size drill bits and a file, bolted the front mounts onto the tubes. Removed both roof rack bars and the cross pieces and sanded them down and primed them, thinking of painting them a dark grey.

is the jack stand under the frame or the lower control arm?

I don't know what size the 300ZX throttle body is, or if it would even work but www.oem-surplus.com has them brand new for $99.24, they also have TB's for 2 different year maximas, 86-88 for $50, and 93-94 for $75

Might have to try heating up the adjuster bracket. You don't have any tension on the bars right?

Finally got the xterra rack installed, just have to run to hardware store tomorrow to get some new allen head bolts and washers. Trimming the front mounts to clear the sunroof wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Only mounting part left to do is to notch the front tubes so the metal bracket that the front mount bolts to is there. I have to make one of the metal parts as I must have misplaced one of them. Than it will be on to paint. Pics to follow.

PF wouldn't start when leaving work yesterday, starter was just spinning but not engaging, finally got it to start by shifting to neutral, don't know why it started in neutral but it did. Got home shut it off and it wouldn't start in park but it did in neutral, shut it off, restarted it 3 times in park !! ??, My buddy noticed a space between the top of the starter and the block so I tightened the top bolt. Of course it had to start pouring rain out right before I went under the truck !!, will see how it does today.

I can't remember if the bottom gets cut or not, it seems it would need to be as just laying the bracket over the original mount would move the radiator closer to the engine.

I think the top bracket I used with the trailmaster kit I had in my 87 hardbody used a flat bracket that bolted to the stock bracket and than bolted to the radiator mount using the factory rubber spacer. My lower drop bracket looked just like the one in the pic above. Originally we just flipped the top mounts upside down and that seemed to work good as well.

I bought one of them from a local surplus store, and the other I got from partsexpress.com, they run $19.89 each link below: http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?searchFilter=&srchExt=CAT&perPage=25&sortBy=0&layout=list&page=1&srchPrice=&srchCat=732&srchMfg=353&srchPromo=&srchAttr=

My buddy, way back had the clamp type steps on his hardbody, pretty good setup as we found after doing a 3" body lift you could flip the brackets over and it raises the step just right.

I "broke down" after climbing a hill in my old hardbody, the pass side lower control arm split in half causing the pass. side to fall, the secondary adjuster on the torsion bar kept the suspension up slightly and the body off the tire, limped to my buddies house and placed a section of square tubing between the arm and the bumpstop than drove it to another friends house, quick junkyard trip got me a new lower control arm and I replaced it.

can't be any worse than doing the 2 knock sensors on this engine, Infiniti VH45DE:

Where did you ever hear the fender antenna is for AM only? That is not correct. Some OEM Nissan radios had a similar system to what some Sony radios have, Sony calls it "diversity tuning" which basically means using two antennas combined to get one signal. "You can think of it like there being two tuners in the factory radio and two antennas in the car. With diversity tuning, the radio is constantly looking at both antennas and it uses the one that is the strongest." As I said some Nissan's used this type of system that is why there is an antenna in the glass as well as on the body. Most of the time when someone installs an aftermarket radio they will only use one of the antenna, usually the fender mounted antenna, but the fender antenna is for FM. You could only use the glass mounted antenna, remove the fender mounted antenna and install a CB antenna in it's place, I don't see that having any bad effects on the radio reception at all, other than you would be using the glass installed antenna instead of the vertical fender antenna for your FM reception.

better filtration, more oil capacity, probably wouldn't have to change the oil as often

ok, just checking LOL

so the first part costs more than Nissan's list price??

they sell kits that include the hoses and mounts, you may depending on where you want to mount the remote filter, need to make a mount for it. Here are some available from Summit racing, both single and dual filters: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Oil-Filter-Included/No/Make/NISSAN/?keyword=oil+filter+relocation

Thanks, not sure how many miles are on them right now, not many, don't drive the PF that much. Since I've been sick I think we drove it one day in the last 3 weeks. The tires, so far make the PF ride real nice.

Here's a newer pic of mine with the new 31" Falkens I put on it, looks like the front settled a bit from the previous pic: the tread: rear: