ahardb0dy

I pulled a bunch of trucks out of snow, mud, sand over the years with the hardbody, that suburban was the only one that caused damage to my truck, and it wasn't the first time I pulled a suburban, guy gave me a $50 tip one day for pulling his suburban out of the middle of Nichols Road on Long Island in a snow storm, he was cut off. I never asked for payment just tips !

Be careful if you ever pull a stuck vehicle with your PF. If the vehicle you pull is heavier than yours you risk bending the idler arm. I know this from experience, I pulled a suburban off a hill one time in my old 87 hardbody, he had 36's and was high centered on the hill, I got him unstuck but my front end lifted or came off the ground and when I started to drive away I could tell something was wrong with my front end, I was right the idler arm was all bent.

That would be my buddy I bought the PF from, he's the type who doesn't do anything to any vehicle until it breaks, after they swapped the engine in the first time him and the neighbor put the torsion bars back in, and I guess never set the height properly, the one side was so low it caused the tire to wear out bald on one edge, and he drove it like that until the engine broke again and than I bought it.

I don't know where you bought the wheels/tires but some tire shops have that Hunter road force balancer where it simulates a load on the tire when balancing

I tried a small area with some wet/dry type sandpaper and it made it's own scratches, did not do anything else yet.

OK, so either my bumper is too high or the carrier is too low, the carrier does not look bent and there is no play in the hinges (mounts). The rubber bumpers do push against the latch, will have to go out and look at it again, if the rubber bumpers line up with the latch plate than I guess the bumper is too high. I also noticed the metal bar the latch engages is getting worn into by the latch. Thanks

If you have the tires checked ( spun on balancer), try to see if you can watch when they do it, I always try to watch to see if there is any runout (correct word??), when they spin the tires. If the wheels look like they have movement I have them put on the rear. If the wheels are new and have movement return the wheels if possible. Samme goes for the tires if they are new, if the tires are out of round get them to take them back.

When you close the tire carrier, are the 2 rubber bumpers near the latch supposed to rub against the top of the bumper, basically mine looks like the rubber bumpers make contact with the bumper causing it to lift up slightly to align with the latch? Also the metal bracket that is midway between the latch and the pivot (mount on corner of the fender), is that supposed to ride up on the plastic part mounted on the body to raise it slightly? Talking about this part:

I made a new rubber seal a while back that goes under the metal ring that bolts to the floor, I cut a slit in it so the shifter can move, than cut another piece of rubber with a hole in it that moves with the shift lever and covers the slit on the lower rubber, it keeps most of the heat out, the leather boot was just covering the rubber I made. I also loosened the upper mount of the spare tire carrier than closed it to it's latched position and than tightened the mounting bolts to try to adjust it, the carrier seems like it was hanging a little low. I checked for play up and down in the carrier and this is none.

with all that metal on the magnet, I think it's time to get a replacement or pull it and take it apart.

Broke down the Dodge Dakota wheel and tire I had laying around and mounted the tire on the extra lego wheel I bought from the junkyard a while back. I know it's not the same size as the 31's but it's a lot closer than the temp spare that I got with the truck and it's a brand new Goodyear tire. Will work fine as a spare for on the road since I haven't been off-road in about 10 years down here !! Always fun dismounting tires by hand especially without tire spoons and using large screwdrivers/prybars !! Lot's of curse words when the tire starts to come off the wheel than drops back on !!

so you can get the shifter into reverse but the truck won't move at all? I would start with the easiest thing to do and pull the shifter, make sure the end of the shifter looks ok and down inside the area where the shifter goes.

The clear plastic on mine always had a cloudy area, than the other day when I was trying the magic eraser on the windshield I made the mistake of rubbing it on the clear plastic over the cluster and it made it worse, polished it quick with Mothers plastic polish but still didn't look good so I pulled it, I didn't touch the black plastic it looked ok. off topic, removed the gauge cluster in my sentra, and did the same thing too.

Pulled the gauge cluster to polish the clear plastic, polished both sides, It always had some cloudy areas. It's perfectly clear now. Also checked all the bulbs found one out and replaced it. In the process discovered my PF has the light under the dash, never even knew it was there, it needed a bulb so I pulled the one out of the cargo area for now. Also removed the transfer case shifter boot as it was all tore up.

too bad you can't find something like this from another vehicle: http://www.dynatrac....s/pro60irs.html found one, go down to post number 10, http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=183890

Hell, today when I left for work I had 3/4, when I got back home It was just above 1/4, 38 miles each way !

I couldn't remember where my fog light relay was mounted but their was only a short length of wire between the fuse holder and the relay so I figured it had to be near the battery.

Was going to edit my post but since you replied, check behind the bumper on each side, check in the openings next to the turn signals in the bumper, look for a fuse and relay near the battery. All the wiring under the hood could have been removed but the wiring for the switch is still in place, obviously as the switch lights up. You have AC but do you have the manual type controls or the automatic push button type?

Those do not look like the plugs for the fog lights, the ones I removed from my 94 looked like this: 2 wires green and black Per the FSM there should be a plug near the center radiator support for the ambient air sensor, and the FSM shows the 2 wires as a red and one yellow see below: the only other plug I see in the FSM in the same general area is the plug for the low pressure switch which should be connected unless you do not have AC. Actually the FSM shows 2 plugs in the same area of the ambient air sensor, plug numbers 33 & 100 but they both say they are the ambient air sensor one says for the VG30

Have you already checked the normal things, Like the wheel bearings? As was said the wheel being a different offset could attenuate any problems.

The xterra my neighbor bought has front and rear ARB's, if you get one and need someone to set it up, his truck was done by a place in Orlando, Advance Driveline I think it is.

I contacted them by e-mail and they wrote right back.

you need to have the rotor pointing at the number one position on the cap, best thing is to verify the piston is at TDC, just if you do pull the plug and stick something in there (straw, thin dowel whatever) don't drop it !! The crank pulley/dampener has a key way so it will only go on one way, I would think if you pull the timing belt and not turn the cam gears or the crankshaft, just put the new belt on everything should be at the same position it was before you removed the belt. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. But if you pull the crank pulley and the upper and lower timing belt covers, than turn the engine over by hand ( breaker bar on the crank bolt), you should be able to line up the marks on each timing gear and the lower timing gear. Once everything is aligned and you release the tension on the tensioner pulley, remove the old belt, the new belt should have lines on it that line up with the 3 timing marks, the FSM also specifies the number of rubber teeth between each timing gear.

you should turn the engine over by hand not with the starter to verify everything is right,

I'm not sure what the fusible links actually look like, but if the plug you are talking about connects right to the positive terminal than it most likely is one of the fusible links. As Simon suggested you may want to just replace them all.