ahardb0dy

Not many available, 4x4 parts link posted below, https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-19871995-pathfinder-c-435_437_341_7.html suspension lift components are available separately also Rough Country makes a kit that includes Upper control arms with shackles for the rear (hardbody pickup), you can use the control arms on the PF but would need coils for the rear. Aftermarket torsion bars (stiffer and hold cranked in lift longer) are available from 4x4 parts and sway a way as well as others.

another WD? that's like next week right? LOL

The E-brake !!! Didn't even notice that or think of it !! Good catch !! I don't think it would be a problem

sorry about my comment, just woke up guess I was grumpy, tried to remove it but edit button is missing.

Well you have a CAR50 already so I hope you would. But thanks for a useless reply off the subject

I wonder if this console would fit better in the WD21 than the R50 or Jeep one, just found this in a hardbody brochure,

Found out recently the truck has been in Florida it's whole life, was imported into Miami, I am the 5th owner, no flood report n the carfax.

My buddies pathfinder today, removed the damaged bumper, valance, grille, dr. fender, dr. headlight, straightened radiator support using hammer, adjustable wrench and pry bar, installed used fender we got from junkyard, installed hardbody sealed beam assembly on driver side, swapped headlight plugs, temp installed hardbody sealed beam on pass. side, temp installed hardbody grille to check fit, straightened dr. corner (front of hood), adjusted hood rubber bumpers. Removed hardbody sealed beam from pass side and re-installed pathfinder headlight. took pictures of above.

Wish it was that easy !! You shouldn't need any adhesive to hold the gasket to the valve cover, the valve cover has little metal tabs that hold the gasket in place, I just did my pass. side and it had them. I guess my pass. side wasn't leaking as the cover was stuck on so good I had to pry on it to get it off, even after I realized I had missed a bolt !!!

what brand filter did you have on it? I had a problem once using a NAPA GOLD, switched back to OEM and no more problems, when I don't use OEM I use Purolator pure one's with no problems. Kyle, not sure if the R-50 is different than the WD21 but there is no ground in the harness for the radio, the radio usually has a separate ground to metal near the radio. The only time I have ever had a problem with alt whine was years and years ago with an aftermarket EQ/booster (also in a Nissan !) On my PF I ran the power wire from the battery to the rear cargo area down the pass. side and my rca cables down the center, you want to be careful running anything along the wiring for the ECU. In my old hardbody my CB (100 watt export) I ran a 4 gauge from the battery to under the glove box to a distribution block than connected the 8 gauge from the CB to the block, I always ground as close to the unit as possible, never back to the battery, just make sure the ground point is clean and remove any paint. Never had any noise even with the high power CB. Not sure if you mentioned this already, or if I missed it but if you unplug the rca cables from the radio does the noise stop? Or if you unplug the antenna does the noise stop? Both will tell you where the sound is coming in from.

sometimes a belt that is sitting too far down in a pulley will make noise too, so make sure the belts are the correct ones, if the noise does not go away after replacing the pulley. You can also spray plain old water on the belt or pulley to see if the noise goes away.

guess so

10 2wd pathfinders, huh? Haven't been in the junkyards down here in Florida than, as 9-10 I see are ALL 2wd.

I said that ^, I was assuming he had a 4wd.

What are you using for a ground for the radio? Are you using an amp? Aftermarket or factory? Is this in an R50? If so the problem is you have no frame !! OK, JK on the last part but answer other questions please.

The water pump comes up as being the same for a 2wd D21 which would be the same on the 2wd WD21, Timing belt is coming up as the same as is the tensioner.

When did they start doing this? I haven't lived up there since 97 but back than they had the tests where the machine measured the emissions from the exhaust.

you wired the stereo directly to the battery? The headunit too? If so Why? alternator whine is rare now a days, does the sound go up and down when you rev the engine?

NY used to test emissions for the inspections, did they change it? My old 87 hardbody even with all emission parts intact and tuned up properly used to fail the inspection test every time, thought I read years ago that Nissan rushed the VG30 into production in the trucks and that's why it had a hard time passing???

did you replace the gauge cluster with the same type? Usually the voltage regulator is what fails on the back of the cluster.

come on down, I'll share ! lol

Well yesterday was step 1 of the Mothers wax 3 step system (pre-cleaner), today I did step 2 (sealer glaze), and step 3 (wax) on the hood and my painted hardbody grille, Also cleaned the windshield again to remove all the sealer/glaze that went all over everything when the bottle exploded in my hands while squeezing it to get it to come out the nozzle !!! It sucked !!! Tomorrow wax the rest of the truck, black paint is SO SHINY NOW !!!

I did the same on the cat on my 90 sentra but mine looked clogged on the inlet side, I know that points to another problem but I gutted mine and the car runs better and MPG went up 4 MPG, the only thing I didn't like is it became noisy, not the exhaust being louder but the sound of the exhaust flowing through that empty cavity ! It was driving me crazy so I eventually straight piped it and just removed the empty cat all together. Now it's quiet again ( plus the stock muffler I replaced with another stock one), only thing I notice with out the cat is a drone at highway speeds.

Sounds like two different issues, the doors unlocking when you close the door could be a problem with the dome light switch at the base of the door frame, possibly the wire is not making good contact on the rear of the switch, and when you close the door it breaks the circuit, I would remove the one Phillips screw that holds the switch into the body and look at the connection. The key not turning would be separate issue, I would pull the door panel and the vapor barrier ( plastic under the door panel) and take a look at the lock cylinder inside the door, make sur ethe window is fully up so you can get to the lock, have someone try to turn the key and see what is going on inside the door. Is the key worn to the point where it just isn't unlocking/locking the door? do You have a second key you can try? Does the key work in any of the other locks?

I'm going to check it today