silverton

on the WD21 the trim level is just a sticker. As all the options were available on all the trucks. So you could get a truck that says XE on the back, but is exactly the same as an SE. Edit: I saw a '90 four door in the yard with manual windows and door locks with a 5spd trans, so, super base model right? But it had a sunroof and a tire carrier.

I have a 95 auto with slightly different interior pieces, I mounted it to the right of the auto shifter. One suggested, you'll want your whip a bit higher than that. You'll get better receive/send range if you have more of the whip sticking up over the roof of your vehicle.

They all clog as far as I know, and the aftermarket ones don't really have anywhere for the "sediment" to settle, as it's just a tube running between fins. Where as the one in the radiator is it's only little compartment area and such.

If you have a LSD, you need to put in limited slip additive. Even if you don't have a limited slip, or maybe unsure, I'd put in limited slip additive. I put some 80'ish/140'ish gear oil in mine with an LSD additive, but that's only because I know I have a LSD. But, unless you're in Australia, you most definitely do not have a LSD in the front.

That's exactly where it is, and Mister510 talked to one of his buddies (he knows everyone who knows nissans) about my problem and said that the ABS module gets bled first, and then the rear wheels.

my ABS light is just on, and I have similar problems. When you double pump does the pedal stiffen up? My pedal goes much farther than it should, and I have done exactly what you've done. Bled all five bleeders til it was clear fluid coming out. Be sure to bleed the ABS unit before you bleed the rear's! But when I double pump the pedal on the second pump it's stiff as a rock and I could make the truck stand on its nose.

if your button lights up on the dash, but won't engage (and turn the light on in the cluster) you could have a faulty switch. On mine, the Resume/Accel button does not work, and the cancel button will work if I press it real hard and wiggle it around. The Set/Decel button works fine though, thankfully!

I doubt you'll notice a difference. the amount of braking that the rear end does is so minimal. Basically the only reason switching from drum to disc is purely cosmetic and ease of changing pads as opposed to shoes.

Those look like AC UCA's which are known to not correct the ball joint angle correctly. I actually just put AC UCA's and rear springs on my pathfinder. aside from a panhard drop bar bracket for the rear track bar, that's about all you need to do a SL on a pathy, along with longer rear shocks. the Rancho RS5116 is what I used. the rear springs only actually raised me up 2" but my truck seemed to sit a little high anyway, 34" from the ground to the lip of the fender, and I'm now 36"

The sprayer motor should run with the key in the on position with the engine off. It could just be that your pump died?

www.4x4parts.com is your friend.

The pathfinder intake already flows more than the engine can take in. So one that flows more is pointless. There is a thread and several posts about it around here somewhere.

SexJelly's original forum name was "kyleky01" or something like that. FYI, the pathfinder intake flows better than the 300zx one.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1994_Pathfinder/at.pdf use that, it's for a 94 but will work for your 92.

I want to know where you found a rusted out pathfinder in Washington. I didn't think rusted cars existed here. The only place mine is even hinting at rust is from crappy batteries.

I believe this has already been started, but here's me with my truck.

ah, you're up north of seattle. That's not to bad of a drive. Maybe tomorrow, since I get off early (3pm'ish), I can come up and give you a hand if you're still having issues and still available.

Your gauge would need a third connector on it. Basically a constant (switched) power wire that runs the light, and then a signal wire hooked up to the vehicles lights or somewhere that gets power when the markers are turned on, and also a ground.

From Seattle huh? new guys are popping up everywhere! Detach tie rod end... as far as I know, one end of the tie rod is threaded onto a shaft, and the other end pops into a hole with a castle nut and a cotter pin. I could be of more help if I were looking at it.

Cool, another guy in Washington! Sucks you're having issues. Where about in the state are you, quite a few members are active around these parts.

You could always run your power from the cigarette lighter.

oh, hah. sorry, throwing around model codes like they should be common knowledge! My bad. WD21's are the first generation pathfinder, modeled after the hardbody pickup, with the model code D21, the W stands for wagon. From 86.5-89 they were two doors (with hatch) and had the vg30i, throttle body injected. 90 is the odd year where they upgrade the motor to the vg30e, multiport fuel injected, but left it as a two door while still making the newer four door version. 91-95's were strictly four doors. And they have an actual frame like pick ups do. It's always a big battle about which is better, and clearly the four door is the winner. R50's are unibody, like cars, so the running joke on the forum is calling them "caR50's". But they did get the beefed up vg33e engine, makes 20 more hp and 20'ish more torque over the vg30e. The later r50's got the vq35 I believe, which really pumped up the power rating. And they are still plenty capable off road with some suspension mods.

The turbo kit is probably for the KA guys.

Welcome to the board! you got an r50 for quite the price! Granted, it need repairs, but that stuff couldn't come to more than 2000 dollars, which is what good condition wd21's go for in my area. You'll find all you need to know, and a lot of stuff you didn't want to know right here on this board!

That is the location of the ambient temp sensor for the auto climate controls. Yesterday I was mucking around and found out that full hot on mine is 150 degrees. sweltering!