silverton

done. but won't have funds until friday if that's cool.

alarm computer for a 95. Must have the white pinned connector with the female'd square end. not the circuit board type. also need the nuts for it. thanks!

HAH! I was wondering where that fuse was, I knew it had to be somewhere... thanks!

check voltage at the wires that plug into the foglight itself with the foglight switch on and powered. You should get close to battery voltage. From the sounds of it, you're having the same problem I am. Seems odd to me that you could have proper voltage at the wires, but no output from the lights.

I was thinking it was this easy, but wasn't so sure! Nice job with modifying the stock hub cover, looks stock!!

i know this may sound weird... with a voltage tester I have 12V at the wiring for the foglights, and with a known good bulb, they still don't come on. Doesn't make sense to me.

the blinker and tail/stop lights are different bulbs.

If most of your driving is in the city, I would suggest aluminum wheels as they weigh less. less rotational mass means more mpg's! always important when dealing with city driven vehicles.

to replace a valve, you need to find which one it is and pull that head.

I just started working so I haven't any money to buy anything, begging parents/aunt for gas money just to get to and from work. Yeah, that is why I'm weary about it, but I'll probably have to bite the bullet and do it.

Since I bought it almost three weeks ago I haven't gotten into a position where I couldn't get out. parking situations at home and at work are pretty easy. Today, just messing around, I was cruising down a street doing 35 and thought I'd see what putting it in R would do while moving forward. There were definitely some noises from the transmission but nothing too exciting happened. There are a couple transmissions on craigslist right now, I called on one and dude wanted 350 for it, TC attached as well, but it's already pulled and all he said was "ran good while it was still in the truck". I've dealt with too many shady people on CL....

Pretty sure the needle should read 0 if the engine is not running. But as far as I know, the tach gets its signal from the igniter, but i'd let others chime in before you start throwing parts at it.

I did. even with a quick swift movement to R, once the stick hit N it was out of gear and stayed out.

I wouldn't say it runs more efficient, but when it never hits "operating" temp, the engine stays in closed loop and always thinks it's cold so dumps in extra fuel to compensate.

I tried the quick shift from D to R a couple times and got nothing. It'll have to be til next friday when I can buy some of the lucas product. I just recently started working again and that's when I get my first paycheck.

I have noticed my truck does the same thing. the fuel gauge still works fine though. there is some sort of resistor pack on the backside of the cluster from what I've read, but since the fuel gauge still works fine I don't think it would be that. The needle climbs a little higher than usual, MAYBE 1/4 of the way up when I'm pulling hard up a hill, but usually just hangs out just above the beginning of the "normal" mark. Also, the air coming through the vents isn't exactly HOT, but it's not really cold either. It's almost like it's just lacking a thermostat. Which could be the case really, most newer thermostats have a "failsafe" where they will freeze open, instead of closed like back in the day. One of the things I'll change out on my upcoming timing belt change.

Thanks, I will try this. Just need it to last long enough for me to be able to save up funds to rebuild my other cars engine, and then I'll focus on repairing the pathy.

I already drained the transmission and refilled. but I may have put in a half quart extra. it basically filled my 5 quart drain pan so I put 5 quarts back into it. When I put the shifter in R the truck acts like it's going to actually do it. The engine rpm raises to compensate for being put into a gear. When I give it some gas, it does nothing but free rev like it's in neutral. I will try the D to R quickly just to see if anything happens...

Long shot, as I've read reverse is sometimes the first gear to go. BUT, is there any hope I can cling to that there is hope that it can be fixed without replacing, or removing the transmission from the truck? All the forward gears work, and beautifully at that, you wouldn't even know the transmission had a problem if you never had to back the thing up. So, I'm just curious if there is a solenoid or a valve body that can be replaced by just removing the pan...

Read about that in the owners manual, but don't see anything like that on mine, I'll have to take a closer look I suppose.

I was wrong earlier in my post. the center belt metal clip goes on the outside one of the passenger seat. but yeah, my aunt tried buckling her seatbelt with it attached to the holder and I was like "whoa whoa whoa, lemme help you with that" haha.

the center seat belt clip uses the inner one on the passenger side. quirky feature, but I think it's neat!

the VG30i should only run one O2 sensor, and as far as I know, is needed for the computer to properly administer the proper fuel mixture. if you're only getting 8mpg, you have other big issues that should be fixed and not covered with a band-aid.

I plan on doing this in the near future. Here is a comparison to a DOT sealed beam lamp. and an E-spec H4 housing made by "carello" Clearly, the E spec one is on the left, and the USDM DOT one is on the right. You can see the beam is more spread, but also has that crisp cut-off line. If I can find the parts at pull-a-part I want to do the hardbody grill/headlamp swap so I can use my espec H4 housings that I kept from my old supra. If I had taken that pic when it was darker out you'd be able to see the light pollution above AND below the DOT light, but nothing above the e-spec one.

have you replaced the cap and rotor? check for moisture on the inside of it.