silverton

Then I guess things are not "all good" haha. When I do the timing set I'll have to see what kind of condition the thermostat is in.

When removing an engine, I have always found it easier to pull the engine and transmission together. mainly because it's sooo much easier to mate the transmission to the engine with them both sitting on the ground.

Sorry for starting a new thread if this had already been covered, I did do some searching and found some stuff, but have another question. I know the fuel gauge and temp gauge have a resistor pack on the backside of the cluster. Basically, what I want to know, is if one works, will the other work just fine? My fuel gauge works perfect, but my coolant gauge barely climbs, even when under load on a freeway hill. I don't have an infrared temp gun to check the inlet/outlet temps on the radiator.

That seems like it would be rather inconvenient to have to get out, pull apart the air box and have the cap handy to protect the added hole. All I did with my truck is remove the intake silencers, basically the extra tubing. I realize I may have made the point of air intake lower, but I don't plan on any deep water travel, and I noticed slight throttle response, a noticeable growl from the intake, the lowest point of the airbox is basically at the top of the tire, which by then water is already getting inside the truck...

Checking engine codes is from the ECU. I'm also curious as to how to check ABS codes, my light is on and I would figure out how to fix whatever is wrong without throwing money at it.

My temp needle usually sits right above the cold mark, it will climb to about quarter under heavy load, up a hill on the freeway. My heat doesn't seem quite HOT either, but I get 20mpg pretty steady with mixed driving, and I don't have a light foot either. When I do the timing set soon, I will also be replacing the thermostat, I have a hunch that it is stuck open.

Didn't try hard enough than. search for vg33 swap or something like that.

It would probably work for the ka24 equipped pathfinders... dunno how well a turbo setup would fit under the hood, but i4's aren't all that big

hah, yes, this is to be applied to the alarm module after you reprogram it. But I knew before looking at that PDF. I've been staring at one that size in my truck for awhile. The module I picked up doesn't work for my truck, so it's just been floating around inside...

3.7? That seems awefully low. Well, I guess the early mk2 supra's had 3.73's in the early years. the final year, 1985, had 4.10's in the autos, and 4.30's in the 5spd. The 5spd had some GET up and GOOO, haha.

My 95 developed a leak, same location as yours, at first I thought rear main, but I had to reuse my old oil filter when I changed the oil, was in a bind and didn't have much of a choice. But then all of a sudden, the leak stopped. And to be honest, I'm used to working on cars, and love working on the pathfinder, it is so much easier to me! Don't have to jack it up or put it on ramps for most things, hondas don't count as real cars though... lol!

Right, the gearing in the pathfinder allow for a rather speedy acceleration, but pretty gutless once out of the power band. I think the vg30e in the trucks make peak torque at 2800 rpms? That's pretty low, but perfect for getting through some nasty terrain! Today I went exploring a new (to me) trail area and the entrance/exit was a steep hill, on the way out I had it in 4LO and in 1st gear, I wasn't able to pick up enough speed to even register on the speedometer. Speaking of that, what are the ratios for the HI and LO setting on the transfer case? I tried a search, but mostly POHO threads come up. Oh, and most cars don't come with a hitch, including my pathfinder, but that doesn't mean much.

It would be unique. Make your truck more, yours. And I think it would be pretty badass! The feeling of power, is all about the gearing. The z31 was built as a sports car, and the wd21 was built as a suv. And the cams put the peak power at different, possibly stronger, points in the rpm band. Therefore making higher/lower hp numbers, even with the same block, crank, rods, and pistons...

+1 @ nunya Then use the left over cash to buy other things...

depends on if you want it on switch power or not, if not then the plug would have power all the time. you would need a fuse in the wiring. and I'd say the back is a good place for one, I know a lot of newer SUV's have outlets like this back there, not exactly sure where it would be mounted, but there is no set place to put it.

it's safe to mix DOT 3 and 4, I think it has a higher wet boiling point DOT 5 is fully synthetic, and will turn DOT 3 and 4 into mush. DOT 5 can only be used on new, or FRESH brake systems.

That sure does sound like an awful lot of work! hah.

I have no idea what all this babble about 2 door > 4 door is. If you like two door so much, why not get a HB with a topper? And then the whole weight thing and the 4 door weighing more? I actually doubt there is more than a 100 pound difference between the trucks, as glass is heavy and it seems to me that both 2 door and 4 doors have similar areas of glass. And besides, isn't extra weight something that helps out on the trail?? Also, VG30E > VG30i

a quart should be plenty, but I would grab a small bottle JUST in case.

Thanks for the correction!

Truck looks nice! I see it all the time... what does SFD stand for?

I don't think they changed anything from the 96 to 96.5 model year. But I do know that pathfinder went through a front fascia change in 99.5

Are you positive you have a limited slip? with a LSD in lose gravel, etc, it should make two marks if you drop the go pedal from the a standstill.

The gear indicator on my 95XE is on the shifter itself, nothing on the cluster.

sounds like someone, SOMEHOW, replaced the dual filament bulbs with a single filament bulb. 1156 and 1157 are the numbers. the dual filament bulbs have a twin post contact setup, and the single just have a big one in the center. so what I'm guessing is that someone forced a single filament bulb in there, which when the brakes were applied, also crossed power to the marker light circuit.