silverton

With 31s, my last fuel up was 15.6mpg, and that was with a wheeling trip. Today, I just got back home from another wheeling trip, with a lot of motor idling, 150'ish miles and it just dropped being half tank. With the old 235/75's I was getting 16-17mpg. 235/75's equate out to 29x9.25 on 15 inch rims. So I have noticed next to no loss of mileage, and this is on an automatic.

Use this: http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html 95's came with two stock tires, depending on if you have the off road package or not. I'll assume not, and that you're running 235/75R15's. You will gain almost 4" ride height. Your odometer/speedometer will read 11% slow. So, when your speedometer indicates 53mph, you will actually be travelling at 60mph. When your trip meter reads 88 miles, you will have actually traveled 100 miles. I went ahead and used my gears, which is 4.66, running the 17s will effectively change your rear end ratio to 4.11. And 3000rpm with the 235/75R15 will be 2650 with the 285/70R17's.

Yeah, it doesn't really take a whole lot of oil to seem catastrophic... Have you ever dumped a quart of oil on the ground? those little half dollar sized spots most people leave don't seem that worrisome afterwards...

the thing with brakes, on a car anyway, is that the pads are always touching the rotor. If not you'd get that squishy pedal feel. But it sounds like at least one of your rotors is slightly warped. As for teh oil. is it on the side of the block, or just the oil pan? could be the front or rear main seal. the rear main is a PITA... the front, still a PITA, but not as much.

+1 on the brakes having surface rust. Especially if it sits outside. The pulsing is a bit odd, but from what I know, you can warp rotors by over torquing the lug nuts, I could be wrong though. The surface rust will get wiped off by the brake pad the more you drive it and the sound should go away. As for the fluid, just saying there is fluid on the bottom side of the engine isn't much help it could be motor oil, it could be gear oil (if you have a 5spd), it could be automatic transmission fluid, it could have come from the power steering pump... who knows... wipe some off with your finger and tell us what color is it!

I would guess AM antenna if it's any kind of antenna, as I have an antenna on my fender.

i havent had a problem with my auto hubs. I have gotten stuck a few times in 2wd and been able to get out after putting it into 4hi, the front driveshaft turns the diff, which turns the axles, which then eventually locks the hubs allowing self extraction. It was one thing that I like about my truck over my buddies toyota with warns. But as soon as I find a set, I'm swapping to manuals, preferably nissan stock from a HB...

my foglight plugs are near/under the battery. I should check to see if I have those plugs, I don't have auto climate, but just curious. Though, while we're on the topic of auto climate, I wonder if this is related. I have a wire running through the center of my windshield, like a defroster wire. I followed it to the passenger side near the dash, and there is a black wire connected to it, but dunno where it goes. is this some sort of sensor? for the auto climate?

PART OUT A TWO DOOR? blasphemy. lol. jk

Glad you got it figured out the cheap way!

Yeah, my tach... "works" I dunno how accurate it is but it will move. on really long drives it must get tired cause it just hangs on the 0.

Mine are also just height adjusting...

+1

Take it to a shucks (oreilly's) or autozone have them test the charging system, they should have a tester to do it while it's all in the vehicle.

Unless you changed your speedometer gear, there is no way you're still "dead on" with a gps. With your current setup, stock being 235/70R15's to 32x11.50R15 (292/74R15's) an indicated speed of 52mph(84kph) would be an actual speed of 60mph(96.5kph). When your odometer shows 87miles(140.5km), you will have actually traveled 100miles(160.9km). Your odometer is reading low by 12.7% Hopefully this helps.

It just clips onto the center bar, when you look at it upclose you'll see and *facepalm* I plan on swapping HB grill and headlights onto my truck. Though the pathfinder lights are really nice for being stock, I'd rather get some Euro H4 conversion lights. Cheap and abundant. Unlike pathfinder headlights.

Looks pretty level to me... And besides, Mister510's truck was angled where mine is a straight edge. If it were angled like his, it wouldn't hit.

I like the early grill better as well. I did the next best thing and just took off the nissan emblem, it just clips onto it, very easy to remove.

Put 31x10.5's today on stock lego wheels. and they hit the stock front valance. not too horrible, but gonna go after it with a sawzall.

You're still living in the TBI world us MPFI guys have it easy with air intake mods.

They are probably just 31x10.50 as that is the most common. Which would fit.

When I changed my diff fluid, I think my magnet had more crude on it than yours. It's just something that happens with differentials and limited slips, that's why the stock plug is a magnet to catch it all. Grinding noises should not be occurring though. As for the original drum brakes and now discs, XE models came standard with drums, and SE's came standard with disc. If they work, keep them! Disc are so much easier to deal with than drums.

Going with a rebuild, or the HD upgrade?

It would be easier to splice in a dual filament base. as a single filament base is only going to have one contact for the bulb.

This is exactly what was happening with my truck. Thankfully it was due for the transmission to be replaced so I just had both done at the same time. Haven't had a problem with it yet!