R3DN1CK

I wanted a red or black one, but got the white one by default. Figured it was easier to change the paint then other neglectful damage from previous owners.

And I thought my $1100 salvage title was a steal... how much for the ctr console? lol!

agreed... also, nissan make a tranny cooler flush. 999MP-AM006P I belive.

my rear main is leaking on my crossover tube... has been for sometime as there is a crust built up on it, doesn't smoke that I can see, but I do smell burnt oil once in a while.

a friend of mine swapped a 3.3 into his 300zx, left the stock internals, bolted back on his stock turbo kit, ran 10psi and was making 310 ft/lbs of tq at just under 3000rpm. You can get turbos to perform at different rmps. I wouldn't cancel it out all the way. That was on the 3.3 though and not the 3.0L.

agreed... the 31x10.50 was an optional stock size tire, and if it is torsion bar sag, wouldn't it be easier and cheap to readjust the bars?

Those will work, but it would be better if you were going to replace them to use fuel pressure hose clamps as they are smooth and apply even force around the circumfrence of the hose.

I used to have one by random technology on an old sentra I had modded out. Worked great but was only good for about two smog tests. I think they went outta buisness though.

MaticJ is available again, it is required for some transfer cases.... Here is the break down on nissan fluid: 4spd auto FWD or RWD gets MaticD, 5spd auto FWD gets MaticK, 5spd auto RWD gets MaticJ which now is MaticS, 7spd auto gets MaticS, and lastly the Manual trans get Nissan MTF 75-85w.

what boots? mine are all toast!

Nissan requires it for warranty repairs, they don't want to pay for someone else lubes. The chevron is far cheaper than the nissan stuff for services and with the econ the way it is, we have to be competitive somehow.

yep, the biggest markup is on the cheap parts like nuts and bolts.

Main reason I know this, is because I bought them so I could install them when i reclock the torsions, replace tension bushings and front LCA bushings. BTW do these boots even do anything?

I work at the dealer and Matic-D is still available it's used by our techs for warranty repairs. All of our services in the shop that aren't maintence agreements use Chevron MD3, which is just Mercon/Dexron III. Maxlife is a great product but with the friction modifiers it works more as a universal trans fluid. Don't think it would hurt, but don't see the benifit as there are 200k+ vehicles rocking the standard ATF.

awesome, will try that route than. almost all of our so cal light bars are prerunner style but I wanted to get the safari look... just wanted to make sure it still functioned properly.

The resivoir grommets on the master cylinfer are part number 46045-W1010 MSRP is $2.42 each. That's even less than the $20 master cylinder from the aftermarket parts house. If it's the piston side where it enters the booster it's $75-300 depending on if you can get away with the piston or if you have to change the assy, either way make sure you get a suction tool and vac out the brake fluid from the booster before you reassemble it.

I've never taken apart one of those bottle jacks... It slipped my mind that it wasn't a hydrolic bottle jack. Thanks for the suggestion. Will look at that!

I work at the dealer and verified that 54033-31G00 is the correct part number, MSRP on them is $4.38 each. Don't kill me for plugging my work(not here for that) but our site nissaparts2u.com has them for $3.50 each.

Maybe someone can use that to their advantage to swing a deal? it's a bad tranny and the Path isn't worth beans... Lol! The problem with the AT i was driving is they would be searching for gears when trying to accelerate on the the freeway.

check the evap case for coolant, pull the blower motor down and you will know. More than likely the heater hoses are broken or loose or the heater core has rusted.

If you can get the key out, I would try to have them cut a new key by keycode if you have it. odds are the ign cyl is worn out and need to be replaced. I would call a locksmith, they could probally repair or rekey your existing one for under $200. If you have AAA you could call them and tell them your key is stuck and they might cover part of the repair.

Oh check the rear lower link bushings for play, if you test drive it and it feels like the rear end had an axle shaft falling out or starts to do the wiggle dance on you it need bushings. Doing those on mine now, just ordered the Nissan Motorsports polyurethane bushings.

I just went throught the test drive to buy process. Almost all the automatics I test drove or looked at were leaking or shifted like crap. One of the old timers at work said the at on these don't last much more than 100k per rebuild. I am sure lots of people have gone further but I chose the manual trans for reliability and control. Almost all of them I looked at also had leaky rear main seals. I chose the best of the worst, as I was trying to keep it under $2000 for the truck.

packie and others with the roofrack mounted lights, how is the visability. Where I live we have deserts and usually run prerunner style front light bars off the bumper.

I just got my tension rod bushings from ebay for $19.99 for the energy suspension ones.