JamesRich

Oh yes they are, I've done it. When the conversion BS came out so did a product called freeze 12. It was a direct replacement for R12 without converting it. I was working in fleet repair and my boss loved this stuff because it was cheap. I put two cans in my old dodge shop truck to find out the expansion valve was bad. I took it to a local shop to evacuate it legally so I could change the valve. They connected it to a sniffer and told me it was 70% R12 and 30% 134 and wanted to charge me $75 to dispose of it. I went back to the shop and just cracked the line. So this freeze 12 was just 134 in a can the size of an R12 can. Now as for what oil is compatable with 12 and 134 I'll just take their word for it. James

You should rekey all the senta locks to the pathfinder key. That would be cool to have one key for both vehicles. I did something similar years ago. I had an 86 ford ranger and an 80 thunderbird. I cut one side of the key for the thunderbird and the other side of the key for the ranger. So one set of keys worked for both vehicles. This might work for a nissan too, the lock only uses one side of the key. James

What the hell! Looks like a cross between a pathfinder and a grand jeep cherokee. It's different though. James

I sanded it with red scotch brite until it was smooth. The wheel paint didn't give a nice finish though, it seem to dry to quickly and looked like overspray. It looked better than the peeling paint with Xterra written on it so I used it like that but will paint it better later. James

I'm running 40 psi in my 31s. The max rating on the tire is 50psi. If the tire is not too wide for the rim you want to run what the tire manufacture recommends to prevent uneven wear. A soft off road tire will require more pressure to keep the tread flat on the highway. James

Just look out for the "Morganzaconda"! The pics and stupid story's are circulating already. Someone had a picture of bigfoot coming out of the basin, but he had a ipod in one hand and a 40 in the other. James

Those look pretty sweet! James

First I had to wait for my wife to get back in the pathy, can't seem to get her out of it lately. Kind of funny that we are arguing over who gets to drive the oldest vehicle we have. Next I found out I had a graduation to rush off to so I snapped some quick Iphone pics. Should give you the idea. I think the middle foot flipped around looks kind of strange but thats because I've been looking at this one for so long. That configuration would eliminate the need to cut the front foot for sun roof clearance and you wouldn't have to cut the cross bars as narrow as I did. The body channel just inside the door jamb is another reason I went over the sun roof. You can see I am right along the edge of it. You will have to have a flat spot for the rivet nut. Here's the middle foot showing you have to mount it across a channel. And the rear to show you how far back I mounted it. I painted mine with graphite wheel paint. James

Drive it down here Keith, I'll change it for you for free! The mechanic might be cheaper though after paying for gas. James

Yes I meant Torx head, I check this forum early in the morning when my brain is still waking up. I didn't have a factory rack on mine but I would think you would have to take off the rail on each side. I'll try to get some this afternoon for you. James

Torque head screws. The glass will open but I would have to take the rack off to remove the glass. I basically cut the back inside corner off of the mounting feet and I did add a little more curve to them so they fit the contour of the roof. I really wish I didn't have the sun roof, I never open it and its a source of noise. When I hit big bumps the outer corners bounce on the rubber gasket. James

I put a case of beer in it and went to my hunting camp for the weekend. Found a nice sandy trail with some sharp hills left by the dozer that was planting trees. Did some drifting on the turns and caught a little air on the hills. Sounds too harsh on the landings though, not going to do that again on purpose. James

OK Thanks! James

Pause for a quick Kingman, On a VG30I head, are the intake ports round with the little hump at the top like the VG30E heads? Or do they have just a round port? I'm assuming they have the same head even though the little hump at the top of the port isn't needed for the throttle body injection. James

I'm pretty sure they are 180cc. James

That dash cap looks pretty nice. Let us know how that comes out with some pics. I just found a perfect dash out of a 90 model or else I would order one of these. I have the red interior too. James

I just never turn my A/C off! Can you see the front plate of the clutch vibrating while the engine is running and the compressor is off? There are some flat springs with rivets holding them together, they are probably getting loose. If the front plate is whats causing the problem find one in a junk yard, I don't think you can buy just the front plate new. They are easy to remove, one 12mm nut in the center and it should slide off. If not you can rent a small puller from a parts house. There are shims in there too to set the distance from the pulley, use a magnet to get those too for in case you need them on your truck. James

I just hit Oreilly and got their lifetime warranty parts. James

check your timing belt. When I got my pathy it ran like crap, ruff idle, black smoke. I ran a compression check and had only 30 psi in one cylinder. After changing the belt I have 180 psi in all cylinders. My belt was so loose it was rubbing on the cover. James

I went back and got them. The one that wouldn't engage was dry inside and sticking, after I took them off it started working. They are pretty nasty but should clean up. Anyone ever take these all apart? There has to be some kind of seal for the knob, and the bearings on the clutch Assembly drive on the one that was dry sounds a little ruff when I spin it. I can see the ball bearings and they don't look ate up so it may just need to be greased but I would want to clean them well then try to regrease them. The truck had a 4 cyl but they are definitely 28 spline. I can get a replacement clutch Assembly drive in 27 spline from courtesy but they are $85 a piece. I would come out cheaper just getting mile markers. James

I'm sure it still hurts but thats not too bad. When you said "crashed" I thought a lot worse. Time for an ARB? James

Vid doesn't work.

I definitely recommend the lockright. It will change the drive ability some if you have a 5 speed though. It adds more slack to the drive train and will bang if you let up the clutch too fast when shifting. It didn't take me long to adjust though. You also need to go easy on it when making turns so it can unlock, otherwise it will either spin your inside tire or unlock under force and make a loud head turning bang. It's really not that bad though, my wife drives it and never complained about any noise. I got lucky I guess and my truck came with an open differential. Also with the low mileage on mine the internal parts hardly showed any wear so all the measurements came out good and I didn't need another set of side spacers. I didn't wheel this truck before I had good tires and the locker but now it will go most places I need in just 2wd. I only need 4wd for the really sticky mud holes. My 2wd titan with open differential will get stuck in wet grass, really! James

That's not cool! Hope it's not to bad. James

While surfing through the pick a part today I found a 95 hard body with factory manual hubs. I engaged the driver side and the axle turned but when I engaged the passenger side the axle would not turn. The truck looked like it had been a long time since it had seen any 4 wheeling use, could the locking pawl be stuck inside? The hub had hit against something at one time and kind of smeared the writing on it but the knob turned back and forth freely so I doubt it's damaged. Also with this truck being a 95 it won't fit on my 87, can I order parts for these thing like replacing the part that splines on the axle? If not then I can always swap the axles from my 94 parts truck right? James