RJSquirrel

Consider the Kumho Road Venture AT KL78

They are out there. Rebuilt calipers are not that expensive and will save a lot of time if you don't already own the tools to properly rebuild a caliper.

Tap Gently. Hammering breaks stuff. Alternatively, replace the bleeder screws with speed bleeders and/or use a pressure bleeder. Motive products makes a very nice one that had adapters for many different cars. I've used on for years. It makes a frustrating job routine, and a lot less messy. Even so, you may need to run the bleed procedure a couple times to get any air trapped in the ABS actuator, and get it to collect in the calipers/wheel cylinders to get it out easily. Good luck.

sounds like bolts on the front subframe near the lower control arm mounting point are loosening up. Common issue. Get a torque wrench and tighten them. I want to say the spec is 140ft-lbs, but I'd doublecheck the service manuals(they are stickyed somewhere on the forums here). I'd hate for you to break one by overtightening.

sounds like a couple oil changes are in your very near future

What's the motivation for a 6 speed anyway? Do you get a better crawl ratio or a steeper overdrive? The 5 speed is pretty well matched for the power/torque of a VG engine as is.

Alkorahil should be able to help you out. He's a great supporter of NPORA.

Its time to call up SteveO and put that H233B SAS kit in

15W40 is too thick to run in your engine. It would work if there is no other alternative available, but it will pump too slowly to avoid excessive startup wear. Your engine was designed to use 5w30, so stick with that.

Don't reuse old lifters unless they are going to be reinstalled in the same head on the same lobe of the same camshaft they came from. Lifters are designed to burnish to the camshaft lobe they are installed on. Mixing used components renews the break-in process, but without the benefit of the break-in coating new lifters come with. Severe to catastrophic wear often occurs. Use new lifters, even with used cams. I'd stick with the Nissan ones. Liberally apply camshaft break-in lube (not grease, it will clog the lifters) to all the moving parts as you assemble the valve-train. Use conventional oil with ZDDP additive during the breakin, and change the oil and filter after the initial 20 minute break-in period. Use conventional oil with ZDDP, a good filter and change the oil again after 500 miles, keeping the rpms down during that period. After that, you can switch to a synthetic oil if desired.

Why not just buy a frame repair kit and weld it up? If you're already willing to pull the frame, blasting and welding up what you have would be less hassle than moving the entire drivetrain.

You will need to clearance the hub hole slightly. I enlarged mine to the groove that runs around the factory hole. I just made many relief cuts from the center hold to near the groove with a hacksaw, and then snapped the keys off with a pair of pliers. I then used a round file to smooth the rough and uneven edges in plastic and work up toward the groove. This is for Warns. I don't know about the Mile Markers.

I just ordered a pair of the Rough Country UCAs. $52.50each. I did have to call Rough Country direct, though. Everything, including shipping, was $117 USD.

Looks and sounds good. You are aware that your frame appears cracked in the second to last photo? Don't waste all your good work so far without getting that some attention. Keep 'em on the road!

I bought a WD21 for the size, simplicity, styling, and the fact one can fit a 4x8' sheet in the back flat on the floor(hatch open). That qualified it to me as a real SUV. I don't know if an R50 can do that or not. It was only later I learned of its off-road capabilities. Frame rust is an issue, but with the frame rust repair kits now available, even that isn't too much of a big deal any more. WD21 all the way!

I've towed with my 32" spare on my pathfinder without any trouble. You may need a drop to level the trailer tongue out, but you don't need any kind of extension.

That implies that 240sx's can also be donors for these... only 1995 and early 1996 4cyl Hardbodys had mpfi

Park it and buy/borrow a bicycle/ride the bus. Save the money from gas/suspended insurance/beer/fun toward the repair. Consider selling something for quick cash to raise $$$. Be honest with yourself. Do you really need everything you have? Try http://www.car-part.com to see if you can find a good used unit locally. Do have any friends that have/rent a house where you could work in the garage? Worst case scenario is to have your whole box removed/rebuilt/reinstalled professionally should be about $2500 USD. Consider what a replacement vehicle will cost, and anything cheap is going to have its own problems too. Good luck, man. I remember working my way through college. Worst years of my life. I don't miss being a starving student at all.

Interesting. It appears that in a modified vG33 the vG30 injectors will not be capable of sufficient flow, and will be just barely adequate in a stock vg33. It looks like 22-25#/hr injectors are needed.

Or at least some quick disconnects...

A friend of mine had BFG AT KOs on his ZR2 S10 and got 81,000 miles out of them. He could have driven them for probably 10k more, but his wife didn't like sliding around in the deep snow. 99% of his mileage was on pavement. 25-28 is good for normal trail use. 20 or so in sand. 12-15psi for sand stucks, and only until you get unstuck (no sudden turns or heavy throttle). Any lower and you'll need beadlocks. I run my AT KOs at 40psi for pavement driving in summer, and 35psi in winter if snow is regularly expected. I've wheeled all over Colorado @ 35psi.

I see two just on the engine side of where the firewall mounting flange is in the removal/installation diagram for the tilt-columm. If the whole wheel is moving up and down, the bearing or bushing that supports the steering shaft within the steering tube assembly is worn out/broken. Its probably not the u-joints if that is the case.

Good luck on getting it out. Use antisieze or teflon tape on the threads on the new one. If you have a propane torch, MAPP gas works wonders. Let us know how it goes.

Preval Complete Spray Can or Aluminum Reusable Spray Can Fill with liquid paint, charge, and shoot!

parkay!