yozsi

none... cause it doesnt touch till you get like.... i dunno 8 inches or more.

LOL, looks like he took some old subaru decals and put it on a old POS pathy.

if you have new tires, i would check if your wheels are bent. you will probably find out that they are.

looks fine to me, they probably replaced it because the fitting was frozen in to the wheel cylinder.

fast sucks, not even worth it. hell, the parts guys at nissan cant even stand it. just use courtesy nissan part look up. thats the fast program right there.

i dont like amsoil too much, i'll put a plug in for redline, been using them since forever.

oh hell, screw that. i'd rather drive 20 minutes and be at attica.

sooo.... where and when is this?

they are lubed by a oil that is added to the refrigerant.

Sue, then have them give you over blue book value for the tip and make them replace it with a tip that is treated for corrosion.

automatic or manual? if manual put trans in neutral... duh? and tow, since 130km is not so far no damage will be done. If automatic, i would recommend flat bed trailer or unbolting the driveshaft from the diff and wire it up to the frame or something.

low quality and thin?? you guys have no clue... our frames are 1/8 inch to 1/8 inch double wall fully boxed. Very very strong, coupled with low carbon steel its flexable and not prone to cracking.

Thats stupid... get a life and stop worrying about this kinda crap. My 92 has been around the rust belt its whole life and its just starting to see some rust. I think going 10 years is plenty on a truck that sees salt.

you can relocate the knock sensor anywhere on the block. hell, i have relocated one to the intake manifold and the back of the cylinder head before for customers that wanted to save money.

I finally got the drivers side welded up and the welds are like 10 times better, i guess i did a better job prepping the metal.

nope, they do anneal or temper the metal after welding. im sorry, i'm still not buying it (btw, i have worked with many a frame builder in the automotive world).

because going wheel well to wheel well would be stupid, 63-67" is ideal for a slider on a 4 door pathfinder.

about 65.

yep i know i might pinch the frame a lil, but like i said, i dont think im going to be dropping it that hard. i dunno, i still got the front d44 to put in with the ox. then maybe if i try harder trails i'll triangulate them to the frame a lil more.

okay... so why did the factory weld to the frame then? Dont worry i know everything about HAZ's , plus i dont weld in one shot and i allow it to cool naturally. Just provide proof to me that welding weakens the metal, if it does then why is everything welded to the frame?

those are weaker than all heck. plus, welding to the frame doesnt weaken it... who told you that?

well 58 is too short and 68 is too long, so you would have to modify them. kinda a waste imo.

thanks, the welds will be better on the drivers side, i just need to figure out how to get in a better position. Maybe ill just stick weld em. The color... yea i liked it too... until i started beating on the truck. It might look nice in pics but the truck is all jacked up. Its got rust, smashed in quarter panel, rockers, bumper. lol now its gonna become a trail rig.

hmmm, might have to do that at a later time... i dont think i will be coming down all that had on em. I welded the slider to the passengers side and its all done. I had a tough time finding decent metal on the frame and my damn mig is limited to the 5 foot power cord and 12 foot gun lead. Some of the welds are horrible looking but they should hold. eww! even worse!

another little update, i started getting kinda tired so my weld quality suffered but oh well.