yozsi

old spark plug wires will start arcing to ground on humid days, i bet you just have old worn out plug wires.

what do you mean voltage through it? you cant test the module just by reading the voltage, the only 2 tests are a resistance test, and a KV test using a scope. Its a transistor, so it is an amplifier, its there to increase the power sent to the coil. they can completely fail, or stop working when hot. i would just replace it, its cheap.

basically you take the negitive wire off the battery, wire the bulb in between the negative cable and the negative post of the battery. dont worry, the light isnt gonna blow up or anything.

the way to diagnose a draw problem is easy, pull the negative battery cable and wire in a light bulb, doesnt matter what kind, could be a tail light or whatever. then start pulling fuses, when the light dims alot or goes out you found the circuit that is drawing the power. how simple is that? of course at work we dont use that way, we normally use a multimeter with a amperage clamp.

hope thats sarcastic.

it will either look like this: or like this depends on what year and engine it is.

im a lil above 205,000 miles of my well abused 92.

the vg30e motor has mpfi, multi point fuel injection with one fuel injector per intake runner. a vg30i has tbi, throttle body fuel injection with iirc 2 larger fuel injectors above the venturi. just think of tbi as a glorified computer controlled carburator, and mpfi as the standard fuel injection everyone thinks of.

the reason your car will run better on lower octane in higher elevations is because the atmospheric pressure is lower, thus less air is entering the combustion chamber. you need a fuel that will detonate easier.

its actually the ignition module, its the gray box thing located near the coil with one connector and 3 wires.

yea, its www.hottexhaust.com

actually, i think it was hotexhaust or something had universals for like 40 bucks. just search for hott exhaust on google, i think its with 2 't's on hot.

295 for a radiator???? My original radiator just gave out a few months ago and i got a brand new 2 row koyo for 90 bucks shipped to my door. you need to go to a different auto parts store.

yea, dude.... you are confused about what octane actually means. I bet your damn motor will run fine with 75 octane found up in the mountains of colorado.... your o2 sensors dont give 2 craps what 'octane' the fuel is. Your knock sensor 'hears' the detonation from a piezo electric signal and compares it to the current ignition timing. If it senses pre-detonation, the computer will retard the timing to maximize engine performance. Your 'special' spark plugs and 'coil packs' have nothing to do with anything. I have first had experience in tuning many a cars with custom megasquirt ecu's. The difference between 91 and 94 octane in minimal, now the difference between 91 and 115 leaded is large. I'm sorry, dyno it to prove im wrong, but i think your butt dyno is gonna need a recalibration.... lol.

I'll bet good money you have a stock engine or a stock engine that has been molested by some jerk offs. The 'eccs cap' is just a cover for the distributor. The copper pipe is actually an aluminum elbow (with rusty radiator fluid residue on it) that connects to the top radiator hose.

the reason they are 'hi-flow' is because they contain so much less catalyst than OE style converters do. If you cut a 'hi-flow' cat open you will see 2 blocks maybe 2 inches thick. if you cut an OE converter open you will see 2 way thicker blocks that fill the entire case up.

yea, i believe you were imagining the extra power. first of all, why are you using 93 octane? it does no good for the engine, you are just wasting money. I dont even use 93 in my race car and its got 11:1 compression. you do know, the higher octane number the harder/slower the fuel detonates.

no not made by smittybilt, actually made at the same chinese factory as mile marker. Mine had all parts marked "mile marker". Its basically a mile marker with a warn style clutch handle and not the cheap ass plastic ring thing.

there will not be any difference in power if you remove the cat. i would up grade to all 2.5 inch with a hi-flow, or if you are in an area with no emissions then just ignore the cat.

i like the cheapy smittybilt one i have. way better than my 8k MM and it was only 280 shipped.

WTF is that? Looks like a retard fabbed that fugly thing.

I can't even find words for this, i gave up answering and reading this guys threads because the questions were so asinine. The search button is there for a reason.......

the easiest will be the illumination wire to the radio or the hvac controls.

that crankshaft might not be worth it with 280k on it, i bet its worn alot more than yours, get pics of your crankshaft, i wanna see how bad its damaged.

gl-5 in anything that doesnt have syncro's, gl-4 in syncro'ed gear boxes.