yozsi

those are some... interesting booger welds.

Alrighty, I made the other side slider. Had a lil trouble cause i didn't realize that i musta bumped the knob on the regulator and i was only getting 5 cfh of gas flow. lol the welds sucked on the end plates but i ground the bad ones out and re welded. The welds on the legs looked great. I also cut out 6 gussets and the plate that im welding to the frame. I also notched out the pinch seam for maximum clearance.

sweet, now there are like 3 of us in central IN.

did the same to the other side: I cut 3 legs out of the 2x2 and welded them to the main slider how this side should look when welded up i'll keep you guys updated.

Well, i'll post this up here cause i been getting a few pm's about this. I basically was getting bored and i was itching for some fabbing because i can't continue on with my sas because im selling my house and moving. So i decided to make some sliders to prevent my rockers and frame from more damage. Yea, so i picked up some steel need to try to prevent more of this: Im making the main tube out of .125 wall 2x3 and the legs will be out of .125 wall 2x2, 1/4 x 3 plate will be used for everything else. I chamfered the leading edge at 50 degrees to slide over stuff easier. I cut out a end plate from the 1/4 inch plate i had and welded it on to the end

Basically it means if you bust your timing belt or chain and you have an interference engine you gonna bend the hell outta your valves and maybe punch a hole in your piston. If you bend the valves, off comes the head for a valve job.

you dont need the self adjuster lever anyways, most of them dont work.

eh, i commented for shats and giggles.

big spare tire. you cant see my plate unless you are behind me and relly low.

sounds like you have a couple bad/spun rod bearings. could also be a couple of bad lifters. why dont you post up a sound file?

Your owners manual should tell you, but i suspect that you are going to be having trouble flat towing it. I would say the best bet is trans in neutral and tcase in neutral.

it also kinda sounds like the timing belt is too loose causing the belt to slap the timing cover. i have seen this happen on lots of cars.

that not lifters nor manifold leaks..... any way you can pin point where is coming from an take a picture?

that frame isnt so bad, i would just grind out the bad spots and weld in some fish plates on both sides. you can also completely cut out the bad section and make some new channel if you know someone with a press brake.

Uhh... no its actually to be used when you ARE in gear and not on the clutch pedal. Its so you can start up the engine if you stalled it out of a steep descent or ascent, it would be unsafe to take your foot off the brake or clutch in.

its not a bad syncro, there are no syncro's for the first gear. its your shifter fork becoming worn. The roll pin that holds the fork to the shifter rail has wallowed out the hole in the aluminum fork. very common problem in all older manuals. i would suggest good fluid such as redline mtl.

love the gangsta ass exploder lean you got there.

lol... steel pistons? thats a new one.... ethylene glycol bad for aluminum? you kidding? the cylinder heads, water pump, radiator, intake manifold, etc are all aluminum.

i've seen bent rods from hydrolocking it from a blown head gasket. happens when a dumb ass tries to start it and the cylinder is full of water. id just run it, you'll never notice.

lol, mofo gettin parts off of IMC. lol, op parts are good, but if you can get the meyle for 4 bucks more, go with those.

if i were you, i would just buy a toyota hi-lux diesel or something. solid axles front and back and cheaper than benzin.

Bull @!*% to the spark plugs cracking on their own. When you were over tightening em or taking em out you prolly cracked them because of a ****** $1.59 spark plug socket. Nothing wrong with bosch plugs, why do bmw, mercedes, fiat, volvo, and 90% of all european companies run those? Hell, the factory bmw race team run bosch silvers or coppers in the m3's. The bosch platinums are @!*% to use on old cars, dont use them. They were meant to be run on modern engines with modern ignition systems such as coil on plug or distributor-less. If you are having running problems with them, i bet you have a flaw in your ignition or fuel system. This comes from a guy who has been a professional auto tech since i was basically born. I also road race, auto cross, and do the occasional road rally.

i dunno, i been getting 12-13 lately. i think its the ****** winter fuel coupled with the e20 we are running.

-8 here with -30 deg wind chill and the ol' pos started no problem.

eh, id just hit the whole engine bay with some compressed air. i bet you knocked something loose or got water in a connection somewhere. most likely the distributor or in the valley.