yozsi

there should also be a reverse switch and a 4wd switch... also that doesnt look like a VSS... that looks like the adapter for the vss or the part the cable for the speedo goes to... that year is your truck?

the thread is an 18mm x1.5 thread pitch.

i agree, a total waste of time and materials. but, its your truck and you can do what makes you happy. Looks good tho.

Umm..... you really got this ass backwards man.... you usually learn stick welding (smaw) first which is the easiest process, then gmaw (mig), then oxy acetylene, then gtaw (tig). I would say oxy acetelyene welding is the toughest and most dangerous. If you need to use the torch to repair the panels i would suggest to braze new material on... not weld.

No, auto hubs lock when the cv axle begins to turn, not the wheel.

I have a complete set of good working auto hubs if you are interested and if you find yours to be trash.

Its sitting on tires now! Only 32's but will get 35's soon... school's starting tommorow, so no working on it during the weekdays. BOO!

yes, check the cat to see if it clogged/ melted. also you SURE the timing belt was installed correctly? retarded one tooth can severely affect performance. have you checked the ignition timing?

Alot has been done since I last posted. I didn't have the camera for it all because Ashley was presenting her research at the ACS conference in philly. Basically i removed the axle, welded everything up, quick spray bomb job, installed the OX locker and gears back in, then i installed the heavy ass axle back into the truck, fabbed up some really simple shock towers, installed knuckles onto the axle, put together the chromoly axles on the drivers side with the alloy usa joints, then put the spindle, bearings, brakes, and lock outs on....... jeez... lotta stuff. Here is some pics i took today after finishing up the drivers side. This is at ride height, it will sit another 7-8 inches higher because of tires and wheels. the jack stand under the sliders have no weight on them. just there for safety. Drivers side Pass side Drivers side shock tower From above, not much room between it and the brake booster! Passengers shock tower Lotta room above! More pics after i finish passengers side.

yes, its in the TC.

yep, your headlights should be on low beam for them to work... if you have power to the lights check your grounds.

Well.... tacked the upper link bracket in.... Decided to slap the coils in and put the trucks weight on the axle. There is about 30 inches from the center of the wheel to the stock fender edge. Axle on the floor... The links are basically parallel with each other so pinion angle remains close to ride height throughout all suspension cycles. No bind anywhere and awesome wheel travel to boot. Last pic showing links and such... Next thing to do is remove the axle and weld up all the brackets... looks like im going to have plenty of space for a driveshaft and exhaust.

if the rust is so bad... i would replace whole sections with 1/8 inch box tubing... no use in spending so much time trying to save crusty rusty metal.

I like the cement idea... that gets my vote. Serious.

Got a few things done that past few days... Welded up the tierod and assembled knuckles and hi-steer arms. Decided to weld on the panhard bar mount on the axle... How the bracket looked like. After modification to fit to axle I them welded up the panhard bar and decided to check the potential wheel travel... Hmmm... This is way over stuffed.... the tire would be in the engine bay... Droop stopped by floor. Still got to fabricate top link and mount to axle...

No, because that would be a passengers drop axle, only dodges after 94 are drivers drop. Look for a jeep grand wagoneer/wagoneer drivers drop axle, seems like thats the axle of choice today.

I did give it a shot of black paint, and will also use some copper anti seize. I work on it probably 2-3 times a week... i usually try to get one thing done a day. Alot of stuff to do just to stick the axle under the truck! Thanks!

I was thinking of doing that... then i saw the body mount on the other side... worse comes to worse i will hole saw a hole and weld in a piece of dom... but until then, i think this will work.

Oh yea, anyone who says this is a bad idea.. i agree, but the automakers use spot welded nuts in frames too. Hopefully i never strip this one out.

I finally got the upper link frame mount figured out.... i wanted something really close to the frame and mounted up high to maintain correct geometry and leave space for the driveshaft and exhaust..... this is what i did. Bracket i started out with.. Where i wanted the bracket to go Hmmm.... no where to put a nut.... solution! After i modded the bracket to mount flush with frame.. Welded ( don't bash the welding job... kinda hard to get into places under there...

Ehhhh..... I think maybe you don't know what you are talking about. I have a 300 amp power supply.... i cranked it up enough to get discoloration on the inside of the tubes.... no need to stick it. You think spicer stick welded the c's on? HA!

Not much progress, but i did get the lower links all built and put in for mock up. Drivers side lowers Passengers side.

have you tried rislone?

I got the lower link frame mounts welded in.. Drivers side tacked in welded up passengers side welded up. cut out both inner fenders for coil bucket clearance.

no, probably from abuse.