yozsi

Please post pics after you crash and die and take out a bunch of innocent people with you. Please stop acting like a pre pubescent 15 year old Idiots.

I have installed a few arb's and used the flexible coiled air lines used for shop compressed air. They work really well.

When mine was stock it was an SE/5 speed/LSD/4.3 gears

Actually a vg30e long block only weighs in at 325 pounds, a engine with all accessories weighs in at 385.

i was considering using a 4bt.... only thing is that they weigh in at 800 pounds.

i would go for isspro guages, i have been using them for a while in diesel trucks and my current truck. they look clean, affordable, and are dead accurate.

The night time pics make it look real bad, its not as bad as it looks. I am spray painting everything with satin black rust inhibiting paint. I could care less if the frame rusts out.... more motivation for me to replace it with rectangular tubing.

Cause that cost money and then it will have that thick nasty stuff all over the place. i'm really not scared of the rust or how it will look.

Lol, i do, and this is not a finished project. i think so much other stuff will be modded that eventually the whole frame will get a coating of spray paint.

why would i want to paint the frame? this is a beater truck, not a show truck. lol

Its the same as a stock axle, i highly doubt it is upgraded at all. Alot of those are just refurbished stock units. all in all, im sure they will work fine.

Thanks, i got a few better pics and made it so the front flexes better... still alot of work to do to it.

Here's some teaser pics, i know they are poser but it was 9pm and it has a straight pipe at the moment. It handles like crap, need to be lowered in the front, has alot of front axle jacking and throttle steer. Its only on 32's right now. Flexes really well tho.

Any cat convertor will work, summit racing has direct bolt in ones for cheap. and use a good dex III/mercon fluid or atf+4. ATF+4 is a fully synthetic trans fluid that will work in almost every trans.

:tonguefinger: HAHA you are funny.... you were being sarcastic... right? You do know that that is 192,503.7 miles..... the white number is a tenth of a mile.

I made my own, look at post 77 and 78 on page 4.

Nope, didn't cover em or make sure they were full of fuel. Just made sure i was ready to weld it and burned it in. Kinda hard to get into a tight spot like that when you are using a 300 amp gun.

Upper crossmember is built and installed! This thing is BEEF. I don't think its gonna bend or do anything. Completed crossmember ready to be installed.... Installed and completely burned in. The tubing is welded on all sides including the bottom wings. It's solid. Kinda scary welding near fuel lines! Rest of the pics.

I started on the rear long arm today, got a few things done... I took the stock link arms out. Stock upper is less than 11 inches long and stock lower is 21 inches long. I'm going to reuse the lowers as uppers and the uppers as lowers but cutting them in half and extending them with dom tubing. Well hell! Scratch the reusing the uppers idea.... maybe this is why i had a weird clunking noise some times.... i guess flexing and wheeling alot will do that to the short uppers. I have plans for new lowers... you'll see.... I removed the stock frame link mounts, poor things are less than 1/8 inch steel and the rocks have killed em. I have a remedy for that! (no my hand is not deformed, my thumb just looks weird for some reason) New upper crossmember and link mounts mocked up. More to come later!

actually our 98 forester has more ground clearance than a stock xj....

inhibit relay... common problem.

Got a couple more things done.... haven't started on the rear suspension because i just don't have the parts and materials yet.... just no time to do anything either. Another patented ghetto part! my custom y-pipe. so sad...... I also swapped in a full detroit locker in the 3rd im going to be swapping in to my rear diff.

most likely direct injection..... the early nissan diesels are IDI but later are direct.

Check out my patented Ghetto Cheapo crossmember!!!!! I think it will hold. I gots me FWD! Yea, no more poser status for me biatches! Yea, yea, i know... prolly needs some triagulation. I'll add some later.

well, finally getting some time to work on it. Made up a front driveshaft, its a hard body driveshaft with one yoke removed from the tube. I then could tell what size tube it was and found out its 2 inch .125 wall ERW. I flipped open the rockford catalog and ordered a centering yoke assembly for it and jacked a 1310 cv from a bronco driveshaft.I put it all together and bolted it to the truck and trued it up. I got it within 5 thousands. Tack welded it then full welded. Its about 25 inches collapsed and 29 inches extended... perfect. I don't think i will need to get it balanced. Its so true that i cant even notice any runout.