yozsi

Hmm, EB d44 are 58 inch WMS-WMS and waggy axles are 61 inch wms-wms. but with chevy flat top knuckles and spindles the EB axle becomes 59 inches. The brackets are actually slightly inboard of center of the coil buckets on the frame... thats why i clearanced the bottom spring plate.

Spot welded the coil and link brackets on. clearanced the coil bucket to the inner c's... prolly weld them to the c's also.

Got the new c's on and welded. Polished the axle tubes. Gotta have TeH Bling Bling! damn axle tubes are kinda thick! Whats for lunch? finally! weld

its the only thing that locates the rear axle laterally.

I'm also going with 5.5 inch EB coils and doing long arms( lowers as uppers and upper sleeved with 1.75 dom .25 wall to extend them as lowers. Rear is the easy part. Thats why i left it out. lol

Yea, saw that on the d22 page.... That thing is huge, plus i built my crappy truss for a few bucks, haha. The reason i am making all this stuff is because im waiting on my inner c's. Cant do much fab work until i can see exactly hou much room i have for the link mounts and coil spring retainer.

I have been in a toss about how to mount the upper link bracket to the center section... i didn't just want to weld the bracket to the center with ni-99 rod, but wanted something stronger. I decided to make a truss with 1/4 inch plate and build from there. Here it is in its preliminary stages. Bent it twice here, just mocking it up... i did everything by eye. Used a square and filler rod to make bends the correct angles. 3 bends making the last bend in my home made press brake. basically done, how it might look like but with more gusseting and maybe not as tall.

a little vibration in 4wd is normal, i would say to take a look at your front driveshaft and lube the slip joint, also check the front diff mount bushings.

uhh, why do you think i took the inner c's off to begin with? LOL

if my truck is done by then.

Ehh, progress stalled a little because i'm waiting on a set of inner c's from BRC out of yuba city. I got a couple progress pics i guess.. Bent ass inner c's. bare axle housing. welded up frame axle link brackets/ coil retainer/ shock mount comparison between HD Moog ZJ springs and 5.5 inch bronco linears.

Because most are weld on, and people who use the bolt or clamp method soon learn that they should have welded. Just look at the amount of metal contact versus a bolt or clamp... even people with unibody xj's weld to sub frame and rocker seams. I guess if you mall crawl and maybe go down a poser trail or 2 bolt on will work. I ain't building some bolted together hunk of junk.

The material specs are in my first post, using a clamp or bolt of system is stupid and will not hold up to any trail.

Never, ever use fram filters. I have killed one daily driven engine (filter end cap failure... made of CARDBOARD!) and one race engine (can burst at seam). worse filters ever made.

:D

i never said i didn't believe in synthetic oil as i run very expensive synthetic oil in my 240z scca road race car. i'm just saying there is no specific synthetic oil filter.... and if there is thats bullcrap. i think you will be pleased with your wix filter.

LOL, my pathy is spoiled too.... its still waiting for its meijer high milage motor oil change

yes, what you are saying is bull crap. I use cheap oil and filters in my pathfinder and change every 6,000 miles, my diesel doesn't get oil changes until 8000 miles. The regular change intervals for some newer cars is not for 8,000-10,000 miles. Oil has come a long way since 1960. BTW im a master tech... so its not like i abuse my cars. I think you are just one of those anal retentive people that flip out when they are proven wrong.

A filter is a damn filter is a damn filter... get it? There is very few things that comprise the filter..... the can, the end cap, the anti backflow valve, the filter medium, and the bypass valve..... obviously a good quality filter will have all good construction and a filter medium that has a specific micron count. I think what you are looking for is a filter that has a low micron count and has large filter area.... that means any good quality filter such as a purolator pure one, wix gold or silver.... etc... just buy a good filter and pass on the fram and no-name filters like mighty. Your old worn out pathfinder is not gonna care that you run a 20 dollar k&n or a 4 dollar wix filter.

A mighty oil filter is what cheap oil change places use... its just a standard oil filter like any other. Just use a plain filter and be done with it.

ummmm... yea! Definately gonna contact you!

well, what sucks is that i have everything already, alloy axles, hubs, brakes, everything.... i just found out my inner c's are toast... looks like im screwed on the axle... or i gotta find another pair of inner c's.

Finished up the passengers side too, I plated this side with 3/16ths instead of 1/4 because the panhard bar mount doesnt tie into this side of the frame...

funny, mine were not drilled they were punched to 9/16 inch. if you put a 1/2 inch bolt, its wayyy to loose.

hmm, i wonder why 9/16th inch hardware works perfectly in them.