yozsi

dude.... reserve time is nothing more than how long it takes to discharge the battery fully at a 25 amp load. A typical car battery has a reserve capacity of about 50-60 amp-hours. that means at a 25 amp load it should be able to supply power to the system for about 2 hours. A lead acid battey has a time to volt/load curve that is a straight line, and since our ecu does not operate under about 10.5volts you can expect maybe 30 minutes of reserve capacity at 25 amps of load. Now if you are driving and the only thing operating is the neccesary systems... like the ecu, you will only be drawing less than 5 amps, 25 amps is alot of load, enough to power the radio, blower motor, lights, etc.....

i actually think that its pretty awesome, who cares if its a pathy... plenty of em out there. Better than hacking on some pos pathy than a classic.

lol, im in indiana going to school at purdue. im from the east bay and we own a repair shop and car lot in vallejo.

yea, i know who you are talking about. i think i have seen the truck in vallejo a couple of times.

I'm happy that fuel is so expensive, less idiots driving. I get to places faster and i dont have to putt around town at stop lights and in traffic all the time.

96 would be a vq30de, maybe a vg30e. the maxima's never got a tb injected vg30.

rears? have more than one? take off your sway bars and toss in dumpster.

sway bar on: sway bar in dumpster: I daily drive my pathfinder without a swaybar... i didnt notice any difference.

take out the whole sway bar and toss in trash... done!

and as i said in post #3. lol

first, did you blow out the holes with compressed air before you removed the plugs? if so, go ahead and stick a long flat head screw driver down there and try to loosen it up. Also... go ahead and put back the plugs a few turns and fill up the holes with penetrating lube.... wow that doesnt sound right. lol

yep, front pump seal (if you have an a/t). pull the trans and replace.

the key is to have a good stock support bracket with the stock plastic slider piece. that is the one that supports the weight of the tire when closed. without it you put all the weight on the hinges.

oh, just to ad a lil more of a tid bit of info, when i used to have my 200sx with the vg30, i put in heavier double valve springs and has that thing to about 7500 rpm's on the dyno (s12 200sx v6's had no rev limiters). didnt even cough a bit, that motor had at least 450k miles on it, not kidding... the odo broke at 380k miles and the owner had the car since it was new and never changed it.

On the trail and stuff i usually bounce the engine off the rev limiter to clear out the tires when im in the sticky stuff. The vg30 can handle 6500 rpm's no problem. I was hearing that the harmonics of the engine don't get destructive until a lil over 7200 rpm's or something. In the street i usually shift from 3500-5k rpm's.

you have to grid off one end of the hinge pin that has been flanged out. then you can remove the pin, replace the bushings then use new hardware i think its 10mm bolts for new hinge pins.

if you are brave enough, you can pull the pan and valve body to access the white plug with wires. thats only if you want to go that far.

I'm good. I was just having some fun with the newbie.

LOL, obviously you have noooo clue what you are talking about. Hehe, it matters immensely that you have the tach set to the right number or cylinders. Most engine ignition systems are a "wasted" spark system where it fires each spark plug twice per cycle. Obviously a 4 cylinder would trigger the tach signal less times per minute, and the 8 cylinder would be firing twice as many times as the 4 cylinder.************************** mmmkay?

they are okay on trails, okay on road, suck ass on ice and snow. go with bfg m/t's for the best all around performance.

yea, if you mis-shift or down shift. but there is no way it can go above 6450 rpm's when free revving it or accelerating. unless you have aftermarket ignition or a chip.

stock rev limiter is 6450 rpm's. your pos 'monster' tach is wrong.

the moog one is a piece of crap. looks like a ball joint style. totally worthless imo, go with a stocker. PLus you can replace the bushes in a stock idler arm.

its an idle control knob, to adjust idle speed to where it runs the best when cold.

make your own? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18157