Simon

There should be an access panel under the carpet in the cargo area......I know there is on my 95......worst case scenario, open the hatch, and have a look....it takes about 10 seconds to pull up the carpet....

Yeah B, I thought fuel filter as well, but he mentioned he replaced it....

Sounds like a fuel problem. I'd check your sending unit (on top of the gas tank) to see if any of the wires are corroded, causing an intermittent loss of fuel pressure. Also, could be that the fuel pump is going. But I'd check those electrical connections on the sending unit first.

Had the same problem. The teeth were lined up properly on the camshafts, but the crankshaft was 1 tooth off......it ran okay......and timing was fine, with the distributor all the way to the top..... NOthing really to worry about as I had my T-belt like that for 6 months, and about 15-20,000Kms with no ill effects.

Your squeal could be from brake fluid spilling on the rotor, then burning off.....the rubbing on the pads causing the squeak. Get that line replaced ASAP. If it blew one hole.....the line is probably weak, and could blow a much bigger one any time, causing a total brake failure.

I've got a Treo 650, with a split charger that also charges my GPS receiver while charging the phone. I've NEVER blown a fuse in my truck, so it's definitely not the phone draws too much power. Try a different charger if possible......

Dowser, I just ordered a T-stat from the local nissan dealer. $20. For that kind of money, it doesn't make any sense not to do it. Especially since you're being so thorough on the rest of the job.

Disconnect the coil wire to the distributor, so it can't start up......

Dowser, get a strapwrench around that pulley, or put the truck in gear to stop the engine from turning while you use the puller......that's the type of puller I used on mine, and it popped right off.... and yeah, it sounds like you may still have the bolt on that holds the harmonic balancer on.

Okay....so that takes care of caster.........how about camber?

mws...I'm curious as to how you're doing these measurements, and especially, how you will be able to get the camber so precisely aligned......I've eyeballed the camber on mine, and once I replace my centerlink, it'll be going for a proper alignment, but if you can offer some insight on how to set the camber properly, it'd be much appreciated.

I just had a problem with one of my UCA's. one bolt snapped off in the frame when I tried to back it out....was seized BAD. I ended up drilling out both holes, installing heli-coils, and new bolts. Ended up using a 9/16" bolt....Solid as a rock now.

Just did that this weekend, and both my old boots, and the replacement boots I bought were the same length. As long as the pins are being protected from the elements, I wouldn't worry about one being a bit shorter.

Mine used to....here's what I did. On the bottom corners, under the glass, there's 2 rubber stops that have a hole in them, allowing the rubber to flex. I took a couple pieces of rubber, and filled the hole, effectively making the rubber thicker......no more squeak....took about a minute.

Once in a while I get one right!! Glad the ride has improved.

Yeah...you're riding the bumpstops, therefore your front suspension has no downward travel. That's why your ride sucks. Leave about 3/4- 1" of space between the UCA and the bumpstop, and it'll improve exponentially.

I'm with Killvox....had the same issue earlier this week....jiggled the connector....purring like a japanese kitten now.

Chances are, with 33's, if you've still got a stock centerlink, it's trashed. They're a known weak point on our trucks, and especially if you run lifted, and oversized tires. Check out www.lpperformance.com for a replacement.....they make top quality stuff.

Bleed the brakes first. It's simple, costs nothing, other than some brake fluid, and could very well be your issue. I had a caliper that stuck, and I had to remove it to free it up, and when I put it back in, I had no pedal pressure. I just opened up all the bleeders, watched the level on the reservoir, and as soon as fluid started pouring out of a bleeder, I'd close it up......On the WD21's, though, 4 wheel ABS isn't an issue, so that bleeding procedure may not work. You can, however, bleed the regular way (you'll need someone to assist) and see if that helps.

I might have to assist as well.......

*snort* Luker, that wasn't very nice.....very funny....but not very nice...

Well, I would say yours Dan, but Pezzy's has got that real nice bumper on the front....so I think hers wins out!!!

I had a similar problem in my 95, and found that there's a breaker in the driver's side kick panel that is for the locks......I could not get my truck to lock/unlock with the door switch or my alarm system's remote. I found this breaker, which was corroded, cut it out, wired in a fuse, and it's worked flawlessly ever since.

I will assume 95SE as stated in his profile..

Upper Ball joint.