Simon

Fender shape never changed. Newer dash arrived in 94. No 2wd in Canada.

You can't get a mechanical locker for an R50. The only locker option you have is the ARB air locker. Great unit, but pricey. You can turn it completely off when not in use, so, when you're driving in the winter, and turn it on when you're wheeling. When not in use, it's an open unit, not LSD.

Weird...I just popped the stock ones off (took a bit of force, but nothing too major) and popped the new ones on the ball mounts. Took about 10 minutes. The replacements I bought had metal clips on them to hold them on the ball mount.

Welcome, and you're right, as TNZ said, the ball joint spacers are SUPPOSED to eliminate the need for new UCA's. However, they don't always work as advertised, and there have been people who had issues running them in the past. 88pathoffroad ran them and destroyed his stock UCA's when he had them in.

Glad everyone's okay. Hope you can find another one you like as much, or more.

Sounds to me like and SE with the "Trail Boss" package. Same as my old one, except that mine didn't have leather.

What does it sound like? A knock? Ping? Whirring? Screech? There are a million different sounds it could make.....give us a description. Since you've said the timing belt was done, if it's making a whirring type of noise, it could be that the belt is too tight. Without knowing the type of sound, we really, though, have no hope of helping.

Did you get the ring loosened off? IF so, it's just a rubber o-ring holding them in their sockets. Just pull. If it's the ring you can't loosen off, you can turn them pretty hard without breaking them.

According to Warn's site. pre '90 = Part # 28739 Post '90 - 2004 = Part # 29091

On the 99.5 (Pezzy's) there's a grommet that the bottom pushes into, and the top part bolts into the top of the headlight assembly.

How would you like a warm glass of shut the hell up? I'll think about quitting smoking the day you get laid.

That's true...the window visors do add to the wind noise, but they allow you to smoke while it's raining out and not drench your cigarette! Not to mention, you can leave your windows down a bit, and no one can see that you've done so.

01's did come with the VQ, but the fill tube is the same. Probably for all R50's. Maybe they had a certain supplier for them during that timespan, and have since found out they're no good. I don't quite understand the Toyota dealership thing either.

I'm surprised no one here has had the bushings wear out on them prematurely. Many of the Xterra folk Pezzy and I run with have had issues with them, as well as SkinnyPedal who had the Calmini lift kit, and had premature wearout on his bushings as well. He's since moved to RoughCountry UCA's.

NTK is probably the best ones for our trucks. Similar to how the NGK plugs ALWAYS work well in Nissans, and Bosch "sometimes" do. NTK will always work for you. I replaced mine in my old truck with an NTK and had it in for 3.5 years without issues.

Yeah, that has been known to help. I've used it as well, with some success.

It truly depends on the LSD unit. IN the r50, and first gen (00-04) Xterra, it's basically useless. If you lift a tire, you may as well be open. If you have nearly even traction with both rear wheels, it'll distribute the power to both wheels, giving you more traction. The WD21 LSD is quite a bit tighter, thus, more useful off road, and when, as Dean said, in high-bias traction situations. Still not a locker though. Either can be rebuilt, or "beefed up" with more clutch discs to give you better traction, and act more like a locker. A friend of mine has had his done and it works very well.

Weird, both mine and Pezzy's owner's manuals state 5w30 for all temps. We've just changed hers over to 10w30 as she's got a small leak in the rear main, and I'm running 5w30 synthetic.

I find the front sway is the only one that makes a difference on the road. And it's removal makes absolutely NO difference offroad. I've run with them both on, and both off, and now only have the rear off, and I'm every bit as capable off road with only the rear off as I was with both off. And my truck doesn't feel like it's going to roll over every time I make a turn on the road now.

You can do it either way, but it's much easier to crank the t-bars with no load on them. So having the truck up on jackstands is a good idea. I've left it down on the tires for smaller adjustments (leveling), but for the lift itself, definitely have the front end of the truck in the air, unless you want a good workout!

They are. The calmini issue is their bushings. They're crap. Squeak like hell, and wear out VERY prematurely.

Good question...but look at the pics......there's no front driveshaft.

He also doesn't have a front driveshaft. 2wd

SOMANABITCH! I totally forgot dude, I'll get them for you.

Do a search around. TONS of info on Jeep Grand Cherokee coils to lift the rear (even new, only $100 MAX) and RoughCountry (Superlift) Upper control arms with a T-bar crank to lift the front (UCA's are about $160 USD). Shocks all round, Rancho 5000's, for instance are about $50 a piece, so for a MAX of $460 you've got a lift better than either of those kits. AC's Upper control arms are not nearly as good as Superlift/RoughCountry, and Calmini has serious issues with the bushings in their arms failing prematurely.