Simon

Yep....I agree. They take it well, for the most part, when you call them a big poopie head!

Should work just fine.

A 96 does not have "auto hubs" It's got fully engaged, full time drive splines, unless swapped out for Manual hubs. The rest posted here still applies.

I'm thinking the 1-2" Bronco Coils on the site TC posted would work nicely for 3" of lift, even with the added weight I have on the back of my truck.

Don't do that. L&P has been screwing people over. There are 2 threads on this board outlining what's happened. PM hoohaa. He makes the same centerlink as L&.only, from my experience, and others here, he's been great to deal with.

some chevy, and most toyota rims will fit, as per the specs Nissan3 specified. Also, any Nissan mid sized truck rim will fit, from 87-2004, as they all shared the same bolt pattern.

See his original post. Looks good man. A thought though.....why not split the mounts in half, shove them up above the sheet metal, then mount the new speakers flush with where they would originally mount. That way, you'd be able to fit the grills back on.

Ball joint.

Good stuff. As long as it's close, and you're good with keeping it greased, you should be fine.

diffs use 75w90, if you have a Limited Slip differential in the rear, make sure the fluid is rated for it. You can just buy LSD rated fluid for both diffs, as even if they're open, it won't hurt them at all. The transfer case can use either 75w90, or ATF. Personally, I go with the same fluid as in my transmission, in case the seal between the two leaks.

I saw the pic from your bumper thread, that's a lot of lift. Did you cut the coils down at all?

Nice job man! That looks real sturdy. My only concern in the design would be water getting into the bearings. How tight does that thing sandwich?

Partsource and Crappy T sell TRW. Which is the same company as MOOG.

IT is normal for it to look okay. Typically, they show no signs of wear. They just snap. Both of mine that I had done looked brand new.

He's wrong. The Monroes have no provision on them for the stock electrical connection.

Ryan, The suggestion of the torch comes from trying to loosen the lock nut, and adjuster. I've had to do it a couple of times myself. Sometimes they seize on there pretty well. I've pulled tie rod ends with and without pullers....it's easier with a puller, but doable without. Either do what GrimGreg said, or loosen the crown nut, but don't remove it, then bang on it with a hammer till the taper breaks loose. Then remove the crown nut. NEVER hammer on the taper itself.... if for any reason you have to reuse that tie rod end, you'll never get the crown nut back on it...

Heat will help. There's nothing to really damage there. I'd also give the pulley a couple of good whacks with a hammer, to free up some of the rust. Don't hit too hard though, as you don't want to bend the shaft.

Yep.... REALLY hard to break them. Also really easy to replace. Alignment isn't necessary right away, just get them as close as possible in length to the old ones and you should be alright for a while.

Same with the 3". It's pretty simple. I've done 3 this year alone....2 on my own trucks. Not terribly difficult, just time consuming.

The box in which the air filter resides.

There's an electrical plug just past the airbox. That's the MAF connector.

Yes....cat = catalytic converter. My guess is the MAF. The wiring on top is known to cause issues. Go give it a wiggle with the truck running, and see if the idle smooths out.

Yeah....it's no fun. The other option, which I thought of after my initial post, was that there's a free-flowing sealant you can get at some auto parts stores. Try taking the trim off the outside of the windshield and using it there. If I remember correctly, the applicator is similar to a syringe. The issue there is, you don't know exactly where it's leaking, so you'll have to go almost all the way around the windshield. Remember, just because it's coming in the truck in one spot, doesn't mean that's where the leak is.

Well, short of a new windsheild, there isn't much you can do. I had a leak in my old truck, siliconed it on the inside, and thought all was well. I just moved where it came down....the water then went down under the plastic trim for the A pillar, and ended up behind the plastic kick panel in the driver's footwell. I had some very unhappy wiring there. You could try to go to a glass place and have them remove your windshield to re-seal it. Some may be able to do it, some may say it's impossible. I have seen windshields taken out in tact though.

There's a first time for everything.