Simon

Hmm. Well, I'm skeptical, but have been quiet in this thread. I don't know whether or not it'll work, but I doubt it.... My question is, I guess for you, TrailChaser. Does this hydrogen device have any baffles or anything like that in the canister that would stop the vehicle from simply taking in water? I mean, on a bumpy trail, or in an off camber situation, it could be a real problem. Might be a dumb question, but not having seen the plans/instructions for these things, I thought I'd throw it out there. This is one of those things that, as long as it doesn't cost much to try, why not? If it saves a few bucks at the pumps over the remaining life of our vehicles, it'll probably pay for itself in short time. If not, then we all know. Think of it as research for the good of the community.

Just undo one link. You don't need to disconnect both ends to gain flex. The swaybar does nothing if only connected on one side.

Most likely the rear main seal. It's pretty common. I had mine leaking for a while, and I got it to stop using a combination of 10W30 oil, and Lucas Oil Stabilizer (about 30/70 ratio Lucas/oil on changes). It took about 3 oil changes or so (15,000kms) to get it to stop, but it finally has. If you're not losing a noticeable amount between changes, I'd leave it alone and try what I suggested above.

The first picture shows the bottom most portion of the bumper, where it mounts to the frame. The lower picture shows the brackets that mate the lower mounts to the bumper itself. If you look in the bottom picture, you can see one on the left side, almost coming straight at you in the pic.

FRAM is just a name. In independent testing (though, admittedly, most I've seen were Oil filter tests) they routinely are shown to be the lowest quality filters. I'm willing to assume that the same build quality (or lack thereof) goes into their other filters. That said, for an oil filter, I don't worry about it too much. It's changed so often that I can't see too much of an issue.

Precise1 has got you covered. I've heard of people rebuilding trannys in these thing 2-3 times in a row (like, within 2K miles of each other) and not knowing why they keep dying. The external cooler, while bypassing the stock cooler in the rad, helps keep the fluid flowing, and cool. Check your tranny fluid, I'm willing to bet it's brown and burnt. If so, as previously mentioned, get those lines off that rad, and connected to a separate LARGE cooler (20,000lb or so, bigger is better) and then get the tranny fluid flushed and filled. Do not let a shop run any cleaners or detergents through the tranny. Have them flush only with new tranny fluid, using about 12-14L, and ensure that it's filled to the right level when they're done.

There are different stock sizes depending on trim package guys.

Naw, as long as you're not riding the bumpstops in the front, and make sure you keep your bumpstops ON, they don't really blow up any quicker. You're still riding in the factory specified range for the front suspension, you're just riding higher within that range. Ball joints are okay as well, again, within reason. If you crank it to the sky, you'll eat them up. Leave about 1/2" between the upper bump stops and you'll be okay.

Drivetrain components won't be too bad. The steering, if you wheel it, will implode. Look for an aftermarket steering system. hoohaa (PM him) makes a good replacement using a stock centerlink. Calmini makes a totally redesigned system.

Absolutely post pics. I'm always curious to see other folks solutions to this problem.

high carbon steel, and a lot of water/salt/general crap spraying up and in there. If they aren't sprayed out RELIGIOUSLY, they start to rust. Once they start, it's very hard to stop it. The earlier ones don't seem to be as bad. I've seen some 2 doors around here with nearly mint frames.

Problem with that, Aaron, is that he's Canadian. So 4 wheel parts plus shipping and doodie to Canada = not such a good deal. ProComp 3000's are about $50 a piece up here.

Nope. Stock idler arm is fine. You should get a brace for it though. Calmini sells one...and I'm sure there are others. You should look into a better centerlink and/or steering system though, if you're going to wheel it. 31" tires did come stock on some Pathfinders, so they aren't oversized, however, wheeling will kill the stock steering pretty quick. Calmini makes a good steering system, as well as hoohaa (PM him, he makes them from stock components)

Same thing basically. Use a wrench or ratchet to get the top nut off, and a 17mm socket with a ratchet to get the bottom off. Then pull the shock out. Installation is reverse of removal. And, as MZ said, get matching shocks. I gave you the part number for the Rancho's for the front in another thread.

Unbolt the old ones, bolt up the new ones. You MAY have to unbolt the panhard rod at the axle end, and slide it off the stud slightly to get the bottom of one shock off, maybe not.

Chances are it's either the sending unit on top of the tank, or the fuel vent hose where it attaches to the tank. I've had both leak slightly, causing a strong fuel smell at the back of the truck.

No....the front needs a different type of shock. Those will work for the rear, though, if you're thinking of lifting (suspension) I'd go with the rs5116 model. It's a little longer.. For the front, you can go with a stock length shock no matter how high you lift, (barring a SAS, or MAJOR front end redesign) as lifting allows for no extra travel. The part number for the front shocks is RS5214

A body lift means nothing for shock length. There's a thread around here that specifies different length shocks that will work. I believe I'm running the RS5116 shocks in the rear for a little more flex, but I also have a 3" suspension lift on my truck, in addition to the body lift.

Depends on what you want.... If you're looking for just on road, go to Canadian Tire, and get a set of Monroe Sensa-Tracs. They're on sale all the time. They'll be useless off road, though, so if you want to be able to take her off the beaten path, look around for Ranchos or Pro Comps. They can usually be had around $50 per shock if you find a sale. driverfx.ca has them, though, they're expensive national4wd.com carries both, I believe.

I find my 95 has to be in Neutral, or it won't shift into, or out of 4LO. As previously mentioned, push down to get it into, and out of those gears.

Should be as simple as just tightening it down.

That's most likely NOT why it died. My old truck (95 Pathfinder) had the original starter when the truck died at 316,000kms, and my current truck also has the original starter. I have had no oil filter relocation kit in either truck. As they said, though, it's probably just the oil from the filter, but as Slick mentioned, check the oil pressure switch as well.

The ECU from the AT equipped Pathy will be fine without the tranny computer. You can do the swap that way, you cannot swap in an auto on an originally manual equipped truck without using the Auto ECU. As for the switches and such, you'll have to go through the diagrams. Search this site for a link to download the factory service manuals, and trace the wiring from there.

It all depends on the backspacing of your rims. I've had a 285/65R16 tire on mine, and it was fine, though, my backspacing was not stock. Not 100% sure at this point what it is, but my tires stick out quite a bit.

It's probably not the pedal. It's more than likely the butterfly on the throttle body, or the spring on the throttle body where the throttle cable attaches that's sticking.