Simon

For the ground wire, snap it off, and crimp a ring terminal on it. Then remove one of the screws, and attach it there. That's what I've done, and it works fine.

You're probably right. Unless I found a blown SC motor for a decent price.

Yeah.....then you're beat. Not sure where to get wheel spacers, unfortunately. Check any local performance shops....though, a 1" spacer is a lot.

Oh....alright....so it's 3/8" under the strut, or 1" under the strut?

The larger tire will be about half an inch larger on the radius (so, 1" taller overall) than the tire currently on the rim. The width is the same. So the 3/8" clearance (if I read your description of the measurements properly) should be fine, as well as the 1" space in terms of height.

I spoke to a Nissan Master tech on this yesterday, who's put a supercharger on a NA VG33 motor in the past. He said that you'd need the ECU and harness.from a SC model in order for it to work properly. the fuel rail, ECU, harness, lower plenum, SC, and accessory belts would be all that's required.

Wow.....nice. I've heard the VG33's had issues with cracking manifolds......which is really weird given how thick they are.

I think on the VG30I, you've got an idle adjust screw near the throttle body. Hopefully someone in the know will pipe up to either confirm or deny that.

This is intriguing. I have a friend with an extra supercharger off his 03 Xterra SC that he (maybe only partially jokingly) offered me for my truck. I wonder if it would really be that easy to swap over to my VG30. Might be worth a look if it is.

It's not difficult. Weld SLOWLY. Stagger the welds to different ends of the piece, to keep the heat down in one concentrated area. You don't want to warp your frame. You may have to box in a bit, as you may blow right through some of the existing outside framerail. If need be, weld a piece to the bottom, and box up. Typically the top half of the frame is in better shape than the bottom for obvious reasons.

Well put csutke.

And THAT alone makes an e-fan swap worth it! I fawking hated those little bastards!

That ground is a secondary. As long as you ensure that the main ground from the negative terminal of the battery, to the body is good, you'll be fine.

You're correct Fueler. 95+ Max had the VQ series engines.

The POR-15 won't do anything but help slow down the rust. It won't fix a thing. Get some steel, and find a friend with a welder, or it will cost you to have it professionally welded.

I was under the impression (and I could be wrong) that all WD21 Pathfinders had a 230ft/lbs LSD, and that Nissan changed it for the Frontier/Xterra (W)D22 platform to 130ft/lbs.

Auto or manual tranny? If auto, you can use the grommet on the driver's side where the clutch pedal would typically mount to the slave cylinder. That's where I've run mine, along with the wires for my inverter.

mz has no nuts!!!

The only thing I would change on my ARB is that it'd be nice to have the hi-lift "T"s cut in it for jacking the front end up with.

You should be around 750 +/- 50rpms So, a 700-800 range is about right. That said, try turning the idle adjust screw on your ECU. You can turn it clockwise to increase idle speed. Do NOT turn it all the way clockwise, as that invokes the diagnostic modes.

Honeycomb big, yeah yeah yeah....it's not small, no no no.

Well, I would vote for the e-fan setup. Mine is a dual fan setup out of a Ford Escape. It's pretty simple. The main one runs all the time, and is triggered by the ignition, the other comes on with the AC. Works nicely for my uses, though, I will be wiring in a master switch so I can shut it off when the need arises (water crossings).

X3

Long story short, no. As MY1PATH mentioned, you still have too much grip on a wet road, which will still cause the binding issues.

Well, Wood. You got a lemon. It happens, as Brat said. Yours is not what I'd consider par for the course with these things. That said, I don't believe ANY newer, highly computer controlled motor is as reliable as their less complicated older cousins. The VG series motors just work, and the VQ series is an excellent motor (had been on Wards 10 best list for many years) but too much complexity (sensors, computer controlled nonsense) can sometimes ruin a good thing. That said, a current Jeep has the same complexities that the VQ Motors do. It's a sign of the times, and trying to get the most power, and lowest emissions out of an engine as possible.