Simon

Nice work man. Keep us posted on how she cruises on the highway, and your mileage numbers.

No sir you are not. nige just went through this, as he's got the Thorleys. I think the eventual fix was to space the skids down from the crossmembers before bolting them up. The BP skids do not allow for the extra droop in the exhaust caused by the headers.

If you have the right sized socket.... Put it on a breaker bar, put the breaker bar on the frame. Unplug the coil wire from the distributor, and bump the starter.

Try this..... Turn the key to the on position....wait for the fuel pump to stop, then turn the key to the start position. If it starts quickly (normally) then you've got a leak in the fuel system somewhere that's not allowing the truck to retain the fuel pressure when the pump is off. I had that issue on my old truck.

Not a clue. I don't know if the wiring would be there, and it'd be as simple as plug and play, or if you'd need harnesses. Couldn't help you there man. But there are shops that will put in aftermarket modules pretty cheap. ~$200 or so, which may be worth it given the possible hassle.

On the 95, they're found in the inner fender, beside the battery. You'll see the mounting screws from inside the hood.

Straight pull. I didn't think it was that bad a pull at first, but the guy was REALLY in the mud hole. Hindsight being 20/20, I should have used a snatch block....but I pulled him out okay. Just saw the DRL's dim a bit, and had to stop the winch for a sec to let the alty charge the battery up a touch. I never pull constant....always in short bursts....but I was pulling him over a hump and didn't want to stop at that point, so it was a little longer than normal. My winch pulls 450amps at full load...which is far more than any alternator (on our trucks) can output. Hence the need for the deep cycle battery.

She looks real clean man. You know how mechanically bulletproof these things are. Maybe get him to send you a video of it running with sound, so you can hear the motor. That'd probably give you a good enough indication on whether or not she's worth the trip.

Absolutely not. 4000lbs, absolutely not. Your truck weighs ~4000lbs. Now, get it stuck in mud, rocks, have an uphill pull, or any other obstacles, and the weight can EASILY DOUBLE!!! 8000lb winch MINIMUM for our trucks, and even then, only if it's a good make (Warn, T-Max etc). I run a 10,000lb winch, and I've had her draw quite high amperage a couple of times on some tough pulls.

That's grassroots one. Notice the larger holes on each end. On a stock CL, those are little ball joint type studs. The grassroots CL removes the Ball joints, replaces them with spherical bearings, and allows you to use a 5/8" diameter bolt to go through the CL, and the idler and pitman arms. The idler and pitman arms have to be drilled out to accept the bolts, as opposed to the tapered ball joint type ends on a stock CL. See the picture of the stock CL below, and take note of the ball joint type ends.

Already done. I ran Dueler HT's on her stock rims last year, but they don't fit the WD21 properly....so in order to save her Revo's and not waste the tires I had on those rims, she's running them for winter.

That's with the manual tranny. Has nothing to do with the auto.

Nope....no MORE bolts. Different bolts. The body is still held to the frame using 10 bolts, whether 2dr or 4dr. The rearmost bolts are different in the 4dr application, hence the new bolts provided by AC.

If that's the case, there should be no reason it wouldn't last another 200k.

The calmini setup is good, but you still have to replace inner and outer tie rods more often (from what I've seen) than you do with the hoohaa style CL. That one is the modified stock CL. It works just fine. I've had mine on for 2 years with no issues, other than having to replace my idler arm bushings.

It should be in the bottom row, where the brake, and CEL are. Should be bottom left.

The harmonic balancer skipped, or the crankshaft sprocket? If the harmonic balancer shifted, I don't see why he'd need to do anything that wouldn't let you change the t-belt again....

Compression rod, or strut rod (they sometimes call it that)

I don't have one! I have an auto. yozsi should be able to help you out.

A throttle cable attached typically to where the cable for the Cruise would be, that is controlled by a hand lever inside the cab. You can set the revs to whatever you like, to free up both feet for clutch and brake. Some folks use bicycle gear shifters for hand throttle duties.

Contact hoohaa. Grassroots 4x4. Get a decent one.

Me too. Luckily, bushings are cheap, and it's an easy job to replace. I don't really care if I have to do them once a year or so.

Okay.....If when you turn the tire, the centerlink rotates, it's the CL that's shot. If it's just the tie rod moving, but the CL doesn't rotate, it's the tie rod ends. If you crawl under, and someone else moves the tire, you can see exactly which parts are worn.