Simon

National 4wd is one place that does these things all the time. I know of the Burlington, Ontario location, and they do good work there. The QC location is 141 Industriel Boulevard Chateauguay, Québec J6J 4Z2 Toll Free:1-800-575-7500

Welcome to NPORA. Here's the answers to your questions..... Do the window motors fail often? Not often at all. The regulators do, however, develop some play. Do the auto hubs break? Not often at all. Though, they have been known to. Typically without being serviced, though, unless you're doing serious wheeling, you'll be fine. Any potential leaking areas with age, oil pan, rear main seal, valve covers etc? Rear main seals go with a bit of regularity, though, not typically to the point of needing replacement. How does the 5 speed trans hold up? Is it strong? Had 2 go out on explorers with less then 100K miles. 5speed is great. Ensure GL-4 fluid only, and search for the TSB on overfilling Any problems with suspension bushings wearing out? Like on older explorers the Radius arm bushings would fail every 40K or so. Not a whole bunch. The front compression rod bushings do fail over time. If I wanted to lift it what would be my options? I didn't see too much in that area when I searched. Suspension lifts (many different routes here) Body lifts 2-3" can be easily found and if you're REALLY inclined, Solid axle swap Any performance parts I can add? like intake, headers(I found the pacesetter's but need the oil filter relocation kit) Yes. HEaders are a good investment when you're fixing the manifold leak. I also found the timing belt may need to be changed. Saw the thread on replacing that. How important is it with 90K miles? In the next 10k, it should be done. Lastly for now, what's a good asking price for this? I was thinking of $2200. TOtally depends on condition and location.

Check to see if there's crap in the motor housing and the evaporator housing. Also check that the drain host for the HVAC system isn't clogged, keeping a pool of water in the system. It's on the passenger side, near the back of the front wheelwell under the truck you should see it.

Right, but it takes so much longer to warm up when idling, as opposed to when driving.

No WD21 has 4 wheel ABS. If equipped, yours has rear ABS. I've never felt it engage in either of the 95's I've owned, though, I don't know that I've ever locked the rear brakes up. Also note, that engaging 4wd disables the ABS. So, at that point you just have regular brakes.

Looks like I'll have to find me a backup ECU.....this is really interesting.

I haven't played with it, but I'm curious about it. How exactly have you gone about hooking up? What type of hardware do you need for this?

Not really more cost effective. With any frame based Nissan, you have to worry about steering after lifting and fitting bigger tires. Stock simply isn't good enough. The costs difference is probably negligible.

That's weird. Typically idling a cold vehicle will burn more gas than driving, because it's sitting in open loop, basically dumping fuel in to keep it running. Getting the truck into closed loop as quickly as possible is the key.

Yes. The arms just allow for proper ball joint angle and alignability when you lift. The only way to achieve the lift is by cranking the torsion bars.

No need to change the arms in the rear. Everything will work out. Lots of people run 3" suspension lift. You can cut the coils if you like, but I'd start with just cutting the pigtail off, and going from there. You may like the height. Just crank the torsion bars a bit to level it off. If you don't have aftermarket UCA's, you won't want to crank too far.

Jeep Grand Cherokee front coils from a V8. 1993-1997 (or 1998, can't remember). Cut or bend the pigtail, and you should gain 3" of lift in the rear. The diameter of the wire itself (for full lift) should be .56" as there were many different coils available for the JGC.

You can get the seals, but it's not an easy job. The box would have to be removed, and the shaft removed from the steering box. There's (seemingly) thousands of little needle bearings that surround the shaft that like to fall out when you take the thing apart.

You can install more clutch discs to increase the breakaway torque if you have LSD. If you're open, I wouldn't waste your money, (if you're going to wheel it) and just go with a locker. IN order to test (if you don't have the orange sticker on the rear diff) jack up the rear end, spin one tire. If the other spins the same way, it's got LSD. If it doesn't spin, or goes the opposite way, it's open.

absolutely. Anything that doesn't work correctly should be taken care of under your warranty.

A couple members have done cams with decent results. Systemf just completed his. A cold air intake can help, however, not a good idea if you're going to wheel it. There are some stock LSD equipped trucks. Maybe look for someone selling a rear end with the same gearing as your truck. Leaf springs?!?! WTF?!?!? No leafs on a Pathfinder.

Welcome to NPORA. 1) It's a tension rod. also known as the compression rod. 2) The problem is, if you just installed using a harness to tap into the stock wiring, your new deck is running through the stock amps. So, even at low volume on the deck, it's relatively loud. Because of this, there's not enough output to your sub to get sound out of it, at least, not at any decent level. The amps are in the right rear quarter panel. Bypass them by running speaker wire either from your new deck directly to the speakers, or by running them to the spot where the amps are, and splicing into the wiring there.

Do it ASAP. Fluid starvation will kill your tranny.....quicker than you think.

That's not a picture. It's a reasonable hand drawn facsimile.

Your alternator is shot. That's common that the "christmas tree" lights up when that happens. It probably took out your battery when you drained it totally. To keep your AT running for the long run, install an aftermarket tranny cooler AT LEAST rated for 10,000lbs. (I've got a 20K lb one) and bypass your stock transmission cooler in the rad. The stock cooler is known to be a major issue with the Auto transmissions on these trucks.

I do that sometimes when Pezzy and I are talking about something related to the board. I'll ask which board (could be our club forum as well) and say "C-N-T-C or NiPORA?" Then, typically that becomes "Ricola" and I say it like those stupid commercials!

Nope. Just move it. It will move out of your way. Bend it using firm but gentle pressure, and you'll be able to get the cover out from behind it. I did it on Pezzy's truck with no problems.

Yes. Also, did you disconnect the rear swaybar? That will keep your axle too high if it's still connected.

Big difference between XE and SE/LE seats in the later model WD21's. The SE/LE seats are far more supportive.

Look....if you're sensible about things you won't have a problem. Roof lights on the road, are dumb. Pure and simple. Even if they're properly aimed, they're way too high, and the light beam still shoots down into oncoming driver's eyes. Common sense would dictate that bumper mounted lights, which would end up lower, or at the level of the headlights are fine. The one caveat to this, however, is that they must be properly aimed. Having big lights, pointing up into oncoming traffic is just ignorant. I have my IPF's on my bumper, mounted pointing slightly down, so I can see the road. I only use them on long drives, where street lights are scarce, and I use them instead of my high beams. Never had an issue.