Simon

Agreed. My K&N has been in for 4 years plus, everything past the filter on the intake tube is clean as a whistle.

I don't know what it is, but it looks like piping from a shop vac. I applaud his effort, and ingenuity, but I'm with Pezzy; it'd never be on my truck.

Drive downhill all the time!!!! (Sorry, had to be said) As far as I know, all the "tricks" have been tried long before we ever got a hold of them. The only way to get optimum mileage out of our rigs is to keep them tuned up, and try to keep wind-resistant accessories off. Tire pressure is key, as well, but I've gone anywhere from 45psi cold to 30 psi cold and not noticed any difference in mileage. My guess is that if you're at, or above the recommended tire pressure, you'll be fine.

You could be right about the brushes, but I had a similar condition when I had a bad ground. I had a loose connection on the negative terminal and all my accessories would work, but it wouldn't fire. I tightened, then broke my terminal, so I bought a new one, tightened it up, and she fired right up. Might be worth a look. Good luck.

That's caused by the rear hatch being loose. People have tried a few things to fix it, all with success. Either you can tape around the hook part of the latch (mounted to the truck) to make it grab tighter, or loosen the screws and move the latch in a little bit, so the hatch closes tighter. It's a common problem on older Pathy's.

Why not just change the actual terminals and not all the wiring? You can get bolt on, lead terminals that won't rust or corrode and it'll only take you about 10 minutes to change both. If you haven't had any other wiring issues, I wouldn't worry about it. Change the terminal portions of the cables, and call it a day.

Check the simple stuff. Wires? Check the wire from the coil to the distributor. That could cause it.

SURE!!! Cute chick on a rope!?!?! I'd join!!!

Probably not!!!! Of course, if any of us "mortal maggots" as he put it, ever did that.....well.....you know what he'd do...... I like the idea of the flyers. I think it's great to advertise what we've got going on here. I also think the idea of short points, bulleted, is the best idea. With a big Logo, or slogan about Pathfinders to catch his/her eye, so they won't just toss it.

I was searching for Pathfinder information, and found Mr. Jim's site, way back when. Used to post on the old board as well. Then we moved to this site, and haven't looked back.

If you're saying you turn the wheel 2" or more and see no movement in the CL, then I'd say it is your steering box. If your CL is moving, but the tires aren't, your steering box is probably okay. If your CL is shot, you can usually feel some play if you get under there and grab it.

Read above ^^^^^ Keep in mind though, I drive an early Pathy. Yours might react differently. Go slow at first if you do remove them, to see if there's any significant difference.

I have both of mine off and only have a little more sway than before. Nothing scary or uncontrollable. I took mine off in stages and notice absolutely no difference with the front sway bar removed. Removing the rear sway bar allowed for more travel in the rear, which accounts for the slightly greater lean. As far as I can tell, if all the other components/bushings are in good shape, the sway bars don't do that much. But they have been known to mask other issues (loose steering components).

Can't say anything to support, or discredit the 1,000,000 mile comment, but I know I killed mine by running GL-5 in it. That was before I knew any better, and have been told of extremely high mileage 5 speeds that have never had the fluid changed. While I don't agree with that stance, I think even dirty old GL-4 is better than new, clean GL-5. I'll be changing mine regularly with GL-4 and hoping for a lot of worry free miles.

Any pics of the latest damage K9? How bad is it?

Well, I'm a WD21 owner, so it may not be the same thing, but I'm here to confirm Vengeful's diagnosis. I had alot of noise, both front and rear, while going over bumps. I knew my front sway bar links were shot, and planned to remove it. I had attributed my rear noise to my exhaust banging as I've got a hanger that's shot. Turns out, my rear sway bar links were bad as well. I removed both sway bars, to test, and noticed no negative difference in ride/handling, and it's now quiet over bumps. It seems to me that if all your other bushings/ball joints/tie rods etc. are in good shape, the sway bars don't do much. Anyways, give it a shot. Just remove it (took me 10 minutes each) and see if your noise is gone. Then you can decide whether to reinstall it and buy new links, or just leave it off.

I had a rough idle for a while in my 95, and I cleaned the MAF sensor, and it smoothed out my idle nicely. If that doesn't work for you, I'd check the resistance on your spark plug wires, as well as check them for cracks/tears. Also check your plugs for any strange wear/buildup.

Why are Frenchmen called "Pepsi's"? Cuz they're empty from the neck up!!!!

Play nice guys. One guy made a snorkel. One guy doesn't like it. No need for personal attacks either way. If you don't like the snorkel, say you don't like the snorkel. Don't attack the guy's intelligence for it. If you're defending your snorkel, defend it. Don't call the guy criticizing it an a-hole. C'mon boys.....that's grade school sh!t. Time to grow up, and talk like adults.

Don't replace that MAF yet. There's a pinned topic on how to clean your MAF, and I was experiencing the same problem you were about a month ago. Cleaned the MAF and I got better mileage, a smoother idle, and the sputtering in high temps was gone. Give it a shot. Takes about 5 minutes or so. Just be very gentle with the elements in the MAF. Good luck.

^^^^^ What he said. Have a good one Bud. You're still part of the family here!!!!

Here ya go. From 4x4parts.com Locker page

The power antenna in my 95 has been shot since I got it. I just pull it up about half way and leave it there. No need to replace. Radio reception is good. Just a thought.

Is the JVC head unit running through stock amps? If so, maybe one of them blew? If it's running straight to the speakers, maybe the front channel blew. I had it happen on an old JVC deck once. Only the rear channel wasn't working, but the front channel was fine. If you're running through the stock amps, I'd check that first.

Looks good I only have lights on my brushguard, but they're pretty bright as it is. My friend had a Liberty (works for Chrysler, it was a company vehicle) with the stock lightbar on top. He shined his lights at me one day, when we were face to face, so I shined mine back, he said he couldn't see anything, and thought he was dying, cuz all he could see was white light!!! Good enough for me!!! :cool2: