Simon

Do you bleed them every time B? I've never bled my brakes when doing them, unless they feel soft after a short run around the block. I figure, why bleed if they still grab hard, and the pedal isn't soft.

My assumption is that I got some POR-15 on the cable when I was spraying the underside of the vehicle (frame and floor) and then pulled the brake up too far. It wouldn't release all of a sudden, and the e-brake handle kept pulling up all on it's own whenever I'd try to release it. I got someone here to pull/release the e-brake while I looked underneath, and saw where it wasn't moving, so my only recourse at that point was to snap the cable, as I had no tools to disconnect anything properly.

There's a small vacuum line that runs in the back near the #6 spark plug (the tough one to get to). It's easily knocked off when you're changing the plugs. Feel around back there, and see if you feel one with an end that's off.

No, I'm not dragging the brakes anymore. I wouldn't have snapped the cable off if I didn't know where it was seized. It's seized in the "exit tube" that goes through the body. The brakes themselves are not seized, that I know for sure. Thanks for the reply on the work. It's just the forward-most part that I have to worry about. There's the "T" where it splits to the two rear tires and everything there is fine. It's up by where it enters the body that is the issue. I'll probably have to replace the cable portion from the handle, to the "T"

I've got 1 12" sub powered by a 350 watt kenwood amp. Pounds hard enough for me, and because it's only a 350, it's small enough to mount to the box, so I can remove it in about 2 minutes as well, for loading purposes. I had a bass tube previously in another vehicle, and it was GARBAGE! Better off with one 10, or 12.

So, my e-brake seized on me this morning, so I tried to loosen it up. No luck, brakes were stuck. I thought, possibly, if I got the cable pulled tighter, then tried to release, it would un-seize. No such luck....brakes simply grabbed harder. So I pulled hard on the lever, and snapped the cable, on purpose, so that I can at least get home without dragging the e-brake. Question is, does anyone know where I can get a new cable, other than a dealership, and how hard is it to replace the cable? I know I have to hook it up under my console, then run it through the floor, but is there more to it than I can see? Thanks in advance for your help folks. Edit.......it's a 95 SE.

Strange...... The "australian-spec thing" makes sense, because as far as I know every U.S or Canadian model 94-95 had the roof speakers. Anyways. Good job on the box!!!

No rear speakers?!?! That's strange! I like your box, and the fact that it's removeable. Are you sure the rear speakers aren't up in the roof? That's where they are on my 95.

I think we basically just said the same thing here Vengeful. Great minds think alike!!

Nope, Pezzy, you're completely on base. The thing is, that a transfer case can bind if it's been used on dry pavement, or a non-slip surface, and sometimes, it won't dissengage for a while until the binding/windup releases.

^^^ What she said. You can lock the hubs prior to hitting a trial, then just use the shift lever to engage/disengage 4wd. No mud on the shoes in that scenario!

Sounds to me like your hubs slammed when they re-engaged. That's normal with auto hubs if you've been going backwards and forwards, because they disengage every time you switch direction. It makes a hell of a lot more noise the more gas you give it, when they engage, because everything else is spinning faster. If your 4wd hi and lo still work, I'd say you're probably alright.

As far as I know, there were no mechanical changes from 1999-2000. It should fit. Same engine, should be the same tranny. I would try to get the tranny code #'s off both, and see if they match up.

Wheel366, I work in IT as well, and have seen lots of cases where all the pop-up blockers, and antispyware programs in the world couldn't stop IE from acting up. We have all of our machines here updated from a central repository, and it's done nightly. The thing is, because most people use IE, there are more virusses/hacks/pop-ups etc. written for it. Same with Exchange servers. If more people used Firefox, or Netscape, they'd probably be more susceptible to attacks.

I use Firefox, which is a "flavour", so to speak, of Netscape. Same code. Anyways, I had pop ups from the Photobucket sites that people had linked to, so I'm sure you got the malware from there. I didn't get any connections added though. I only use IE if ABSOLUTELY necessary.

Yep. I had to use an epoxy based "gas tank repair kit", which is basically an epoxy putty that hardens. My sending unit wouldn't seal either. I put the putty around the hole, then tightened down the screws. NO leaks since.

Oh. So sorry Mr. Innocent.

Honoured?!?! Proud?!?!? Happy?!?!? This is all complimentary my dear Pezzy. If we weren't so hard up for pictures of you, we wouldn't have to Photoshop everything!

Exactly. What guy ever uses a calendar as a calendar?!?! It's just a thing with numbers used as an excuse to have pictures of beautiful women and/or cars up on the wall!!!!

If it doesn't work via the key method that Knoxville mentioned, you've either got bad wiring, or a bad lock timer. I had some wiring in the driver's side kick panel rot on me (moisture was leaking in from a bad seal on the windsheild). I couldn't lock the doors without physically pushing the locks down, but, mine would all unlock with the key, or the button on my switch.

Definitely a driveway do-able job. That should give you alot more lift out of your stockers. 88 still runs his, and he beats the crap out of his truck!!!

First of all, you can't use coils in the front of our trucks without MAJOR fabbing i.e coil perches and basically redesigning the whole front end (like with a SAS). If your torsion bars are maxed, then they've sagged, so you'll need to reindex them (there's a how-to somewhere around here, search for it) then crank them, and you should get enough height out of them to level the front with the back. If not, you may need to look into new torsion bars. If you have to go that route, you're better off to find some (Sway-a-way, or Calmini, to name a couple) that have higher spring rates, so they don't wear out as quickly. Good luck.

In that case, it's probably not a flat spot on the starter, but you were trying to start it on an "off" time in blinker mode!!! This should teach you to ALWAYS label vital fluids properly. :contract:

If you're looking at a 2002/2003, with the 3.5L engine, it doesn't have a timing belt. It's a chain. Nothing to worry about there. The only way to tell otherwise, if it's the 3.3L, is to ask, unless (very rarely) they put a sticker on the timing belt cover saying when it was done.

Yeah. You!!! Get er done!!!! In all honesty, based upon what you came up with for the SOXC, I think you're the best qualified/suited to do this, if you don't mind!!!